3d Printers

[Skeans1]

I was unfamiliar with the term "ringing" so had to look that one up. The various references I read seemed to indicate that it is a result of mechanical vibration or resonance during the printing process. It mentioned that it is commonly the result of quickly changing direction which can cause vibrations. I'm somewhat confused because those tail pieces (I assume those are the ones you said show ringing) are hollow with no fill. As such, the wall thickness of them is quite thin and very little starting and stopping is going on. I'm not sure how new firmware would help resolve that but it looks like I need to do more reading. One thing for sure, 3D printing is a constant learning process, at least for me.

It can also be a trait of a heavy bed style machine, both of my machines run on Klipper with the CR-10 printing up around 100mm or higher with no ringing. Klipper Firmware is replaces Marlin but requires a Raspberry pi computer to run everything it does all the computing well the main board only is there for which direction the stepper motor is going. These main body pieces are PETG came off my CR-10 running at 100mm for most settings at 75mm tall take around 2 hours well the accent adapter came off my Ender 3 with a Biqu H2 direct drive they are around 20mm tall they take around 1.5 hours each at around 50mm a second. If you’ve been thinking about doing Octoprint or are running Octoprint I’d look into Klipper with one of its light weight interfaces such as Fluidd or Mainsail they’re easier to use as well as cleaner.

 

[Alan W.]

nice steel nozzle?

Nozzle X from E3D

 

[arizona98tj]

It can also be a trait of a heavy bed style machine, both of my machines run on Klipper with the CR-10 printing up around 100mm or higher with no ringing. Klipper Firmware is replaces Marlin but requires a Raspberry pi computer to run everything it does all the computing well the main board only is there for which direction the stepper motor is going. These main body pieces are PETG came off my CR-10 running at 100mm for most settings at 75mm tall take around 2 hours well the accent adapter came off my Ender 3 with a Biqu H2 direct drive they are around 20mm tall they take around 1.5 hours each at around 50mm a second. If you’ve been thinking about doing Octoprint or are running Octoprint I’d look into Klipper with one of its light weight interfaces such as Fluidd or Mainsail they’re easier to use as well as cleaner.

Thanks for the explanation. I appreciation you taking the time to help me better understand. I'm not enough into 3D printing, at this point, to sink more money into my setup. Truthfully, it gets the things done that I need and as I said earlier, it is just a hobby that I use to support other hobbies. Thanks again.

 

[LittleBill21]

Thanks for the explanation. I appreciation you taking the time to help me better understand. I'm not enough into 3D printing, at this point, to sink more money into my setup. Truthfully, it gets the things done that I need and as I said earlier, it is just a hobby that I use to support other hobbies. Thanks again.

Kind of how I feel. Most stuff is printed overnight. I'm not in a huge rush. the other thing once you speed the printers up, they get ALOT louder, at least my ender does up over 100. If it was a business it would be a different story

 

[Skeans1]

Kind of how I feel. Most stuff is printed overnight. I'm not in a huge rush. the other thing once you speed the printers up, they get ALOT louder, at least my ender does up over 100. If it was a business it would be a different story

That would depend on the stepper motors that are on the board, my Ender with the stock board was terrible for noise but with a BTT SKR Mini E3 board it’s pretty well silent now. My stuff is a hobby with the ability to prototype something or make stuff for our equipment that’s not available. Something like this little flexible filter lock is something that’s nice to have the speed when doing prototypes in the evening to try out during the day.

 

[BravoXray]

This is my latest print, it's a T Rex, it's about 6 1/2 feet long (about the size of a two year old.) I have two more pieces to attach, one of the legs and one arm. The black skull set is 18 inches long.

I did the same print, but mines only about 2 feet long. Took my QiDi Tech about 24 hours to print all the pieces.

 

[BravoXray]

Kind of how I feel. Most stuff is printed overnight. I'm not in a huge rush. the other thing once you speed the printers up, they get ALOT louder, at least my ender does up over 100. If it was a business it would be a different story

I have a Duet3D board in my HyperCube which has a pin on the expansion header that it will pull low when a M81 code is executed at the end of a print, and the hot end temp drops below 40°C. I made a circuit with a couple of relays and a small 5 volt PSU that shuts the printer off when the pin goes low. So I don't need to worry about the printer being on after the print finishes. Also, the print is usually popped loose from the build platform after it cools to ambient which is about 60°F here in the basement.
Also, it is so quiet that the cooling fan in the PSU is about all you can hear when it's running, virtually no noise from the stepper motors at all.

 

[LittleBill21]

I have a Duet3D board in my HyperCube which has a pin on the expansion header that it will pull low when a M81 code is executed at the end of a print, and the hot end temp drops below 40°C. I made a circuit with a couple of relays and a small 5 volt PSU that shuts the printer off when the pin goes low. So I don't need to worry about the printer being on after the print finishes. Also, the print is usually popped loose from the build platform after it cools to ambient which is about 60°F here in the basement.

I looked at your hyperCube, seemed pricey for just a frame, but eh so far my ender is doing what I need. there are a couple different ways to kill power on the ender. haven't really gotten to that point yet, but its cool the duet3d gives you that functionality.

One of my best upgrades was a flexible PEI sheet for PETG (primarily all i print now). I can rip the part off the second the print is done if I want. I also have a bltouch and jyers 15x15 ubl firmware, and do a 4 point tilt test before every print. I now have printed over 50 items without a level. pretty amazing coming from where i started.

 

[Bearsixty7]

Interesting thread!

I don't have a 3d printer but had been thinking about one for a couple years. Now this year my 15 year old son asked for one for Christmas. He has said he thinks he wants to go into electronics/robotics, which is interesting because I'm an Electronics Technician (33 years with the company).

So I'm going to let him figure this 3D stuff out and just have him design and build parts I need/want.

 

[Avenger]

I just saw this thread.
I've been 3D printing for several years now. My printers run almost non-stop making all sorts of things. I have lists and lists of STL files. I've designed and redesigned my own files. I've printed everything from firearms to Christmas decorations. I print, mostly in PLA+ but do print ABS, Carbon fiber reinforced nylon, etc. Depends on what I'm printing.

I started with an Ender 3V2. But found that I had more fun and got more out of my printer if I modified it. I run custom firmware based on Jyers, and had modified several aspects of it, like direct drive, dual lead screws, hotter heat cartridge, etc.

I loved printing so much that I bought another (when they went on sale). This one is not as modified, and only prints in PLA+. But its great if my main printer is working on a slow, complicated, 4 day print, and I need to print something quickly that will only take a few hours.

I love printing. I'm not a very technical guy, and the learning curve was steep, but once I figured it out, and starting making successful prints, the more I learned, the more I enjoyed it.