3PH Diverter valve leaking

[bungeekord]

Hello,

So I have 2 significant leaks at the diverter valve for the 3 pt hitch control lever (lower right of seat). One seems to be coming from where the pipe attaches from the pump at front of tractor. The second is a bit hard to tell but seems to be from where the lever attaches to the case? Rather hard to tell since the fluid drips from the lowest point due to gravity. Its a steady drip, which increases if I increase RPMs. Tractor is rarely used. Just started it yesterday to try to till the garden and 3 pt Hitch was sluggish and struggled to lift a 4' tiller.

Wondering if this is just a couple leaks or symptom of something worse... My tractor is (I believe) a 2000 farmpro 254 with the Y385T engine. There is a top plate below the seat with no access for a prefilter, so its unclear if this has a prefilter or just the main hydraulic filter.

Does anyone have experience with leaks in these locations? Hoping its just crush washers and a gasket or two.

Thanks,

Ben

 

[bungeekord]

Also, this is a bare-bones set up, no additional hydraulics (FEL, etc.)

 

[piper184]

See if this parts diagram matches your valve assembly. Distributor Valve - 18-28HP Tractors | Jinma Tractor Parts, Farm Pro Tractor Parts | Circle G Tractor Parts
There is no seal shown for the control lever shaft but I find it hard to believe there isn't at least an o-ring in there somewhere. Part 34 needs to be sealed against part 31.
You may need to remove the rear cover (31) to see what is going on inside.
I think the pipe to valve connection would be a banjo bolt fitting. If the bolt is loose the washers on either side of the banjo fitting will leak. Also the washers themselves may need replacing.
Hydraulic Steering and Pipe (4WD) - 18-28HP Tractors | Jinma Tractor Parts, Farm Pro Tractor Parts | Circle G Tractor Parts
If the hydraulics are slow there are several things that could cause this from low fluid to fluid with too high viscosity to a plugged suction filter screen. Other less likely items are worn control valve or worn piston/seals/cylinder or the pump itself is not working well.
Most basic is if the pressure relief valve needs adjusting.
If you have power steering that runs off of the same system there is a priority (diverter) valve that is involved as well. Does the power steering work well?

 

[bungeekord]

ha, once it warms up the power steering seems to work, but its on a separate system with its own pump and fluid reservoir up in front of the radiator.

Just toped it off 3PH reservoir with AW32. Where is the suction filter screen for this machine? I dont have one that pulls up from under the seat...

 

[piper184]

I didn't find a listing for Farmpro 254. The links I sent for parts show kind of a generic setup that covers most all models.
Do you have a screw on filter that is accessible from the outside of the tractor?
They used several different hydraulic layouts. For example my Jinma 284 has only one pump, a suction screen in the tank and is 4WD with power steering.
Perhaps you could post pictures of your hydraulics so we can figure out what you have.

 

[bungeekord]

ok so this tractor has a complicated history, was next to a building that burned down and lost its hood years back, (mechanical was fine) Ive kind of Frankensteined it back together, but still uncertain of its original model/name.

 

[Affordable]

Rubber coated washers on both sides of the Bolt that connects the hardline, and O-ring that seals valve to tractor

Tommy
Affordable Tractor Sales
"Your Jinma Parts Superstore"
www.affordabletractorsalesco.com
979-865-4002

 

[bungeekord]

it looks like this thing sticks to the tractor with an actual gasket, someone gooped it up pretty good. But Im not sure thats whats leaking, it really seems to be at the lever where it exits the lifter valve...

 

[piper184]

The white spin on filter appears to be a suction line filter. Is that a temperature gauge on the filter housing?

Where does the pipe on the filter come from and where does it go to?

If this is the suction line for the 3PT hydraulics, I would change out that filter first.
As for the control valve the first thing I would do is get some parts cleaner (paint thinner/mineral spirits) and a brush and clean off as much of the valve assembly as possible. Then follow up with some spray brake cleaner and then let it dry. This way you can start the tractor and let it run for a minute or two while watching to see where the fresh oil is coming from. Then you can better identify the source of the leak.
Odds are pretty good that the rubber portions of the banjo fitting seals are shot. Either old age or perhaps heat from the fire. They don't last forever. I try to keep spares on hand. The BOSS style fittings on my FEL are notorious for failing on a regular basis.

If it also leaks where the control lever shaft enters the back housing you will have to take it apart to evaluate. I don't see a seal listed for that location. Technically I suppose there should not be any leakage of the spool valve into the back housing but that would be a near impossibility. There are gaskets between the valve housing and back housing for a reason so it follows that there should be a seal of some kind on the control arm shaft.

If you take it apart, note that the hex head plug on the rear housing only holds in the detent and spring assembly. Part #30 is what actually connects the control lever shaft to the spool valve. There were a few different designs used but the basics are the same. As you unscrew the back housing it will back off from the valve body as it is under spring pressure from the spool valve.
If I were going to get into it, I would also pull the spool valve for cleaning and inspection. If it is badly worn it could be leaking internally and reducing the amount of power available to the 3PT cylinder.
The square headed plug on the main valve body housing is for the pressure relief valve. I would also pull this apart for inspection. If the spring is weak or if the assembly is not screwed in all the way it could reduce operating pressure. Some pressure relief valves are adjusted by how far you screw in the adjuster (adding more tension to the spring) or by adding a shim under the spring to increase the pressure. A worn valve or seat can cause loss of pressure and dirt or debris caught in the seat can cause the same thing.

 

[Bob Rooks]

The white spin on filter appears to be a suction line filter. Is that a temperature gauge on the filter housing?

That is a "change filter indicator". It's actually a vacuum gauge that's between the pump and filter. The filter head has a nominal bypass setting of 5 psig Δ. Typically, suction line filters have a 25 µ rating.