patrick_g
Elite Member
I have been doing a little more than my average logging lately and have tired of improvising. Here is my trial baloon... What do you think?
1. Cut a piece of steel, probably 4 inch heavy wall steel pipe or square tubing (1/4 or more wall thickness) to fit between the 3PH lower arms of a class 1.
2. Drill centered holes in 2 or 4 pieces of 1/4 plate cut round to fit inside the pipe and one about 6-9 inched in dia.
3. The holes in the centers to fit class 1 pins.
4. Distribute the round center drilled plugs on the pin and weld together with the larger on on the end.
5. Drill some holes in the pipe at the location where the plug(s) will be when inserted in the pipe (except the outermost.)
6. Weld the plugs through the holes and all the way round on the outer one.
That's it!
Insert this "implement" in the lower arms and secure like any other implement. Attach a chain to the drawbar and run it over the top of the "implement."
In use you back up to a log and lower the 3PH. You then attach the chain. You can now raise the hitch to pick up the end of the log and drive away forward pulling the log. The larger round pieces at the end help keep the chain from getting off of the pipe at the ends. You might not want to raise the 3Ph any more than needed to prevent the end of the log from digging in or bringing you to a sudden halt if the towed log hits a stump. Raising the log too high places the rearward force above your rear axle and takes weight off your front tires reducing your steering ability as well as promoting a potential rearward roll over.
I have no clue what the smart guys do but this seemed like a big improvement over my usual improvised approaches and it shouldn't take a real welding engineer to build.
Pat
1. Cut a piece of steel, probably 4 inch heavy wall steel pipe or square tubing (1/4 or more wall thickness) to fit between the 3PH lower arms of a class 1.
2. Drill centered holes in 2 or 4 pieces of 1/4 plate cut round to fit inside the pipe and one about 6-9 inched in dia.
3. The holes in the centers to fit class 1 pins.
4. Distribute the round center drilled plugs on the pin and weld together with the larger on on the end.
5. Drill some holes in the pipe at the location where the plug(s) will be when inserted in the pipe (except the outermost.)
6. Weld the plugs through the holes and all the way round on the outer one.
That's it!
Insert this "implement" in the lower arms and secure like any other implement. Attach a chain to the drawbar and run it over the top of the "implement."
In use you back up to a log and lower the 3PH. You then attach the chain. You can now raise the hitch to pick up the end of the log and drive away forward pulling the log. The larger round pieces at the end help keep the chain from getting off of the pipe at the ends. You might not want to raise the 3Ph any more than needed to prevent the end of the log from digging in or bringing you to a sudden halt if the towed log hits a stump. Raising the log too high places the rearward force above your rear axle and takes weight off your front tires reducing your steering ability as well as promoting a potential rearward roll over.
I have no clue what the smart guys do but this seemed like a big improvement over my usual improvised approaches and it shouldn't take a real welding engineer to build.
Pat