3PH log skidding implement

[patrick_g]

I have been doing a little more than my average logging lately and have tired of improvising. Here is my trial baloon... What do you think?

1. Cut a piece of steel, probably 4 inch heavy wall steel pipe or square tubing (1/4 or more wall thickness) to fit between the 3PH lower arms of a class 1.

2. Drill centered holes in 4 pieces of 1/4 plate, 2 to fit inside the pipe and 2 larger than the pipe. Two are cut round to fit inside the pipe and the larger ones are about 6-9 inched in dia.

3. The holes in the centers to fit class 1 pins.

4. Distribute the round center drilled plugs on the pin and weld together with the larger on on the end.

5. Drill some holes in the pipe at the location where the plug(s) will be when inserted in the pipe (except the outermost.)

6. Weld the plugs through the holes and all the way round on the outer one.

That's it!

Insert this "implement" in the lower arms and secure like any other implement. Attach a chain to the drawbar and run it over the top of the "implement."

In use you back up to a log and lower the 3PH. You then attach the chain. You can now raise the hitch to pick up the end of the log and drive away forward pulling the log. The larger round pieces at the end help keep the chain from getting off of the pipe at the ends. You might not want to raise the 3Ph any more than needed to prevent the end of the log from digging in or bringing you to a sudden halt if the towed log hits a stump. Raising the log too high places the rearward force above your rear axle and takes weight off your front tires reducing your steering ability as well as promoting a potential rearward roll over.

I have no clue what the smart guys do but this seemed like a big improvement over my usual improvised approaches and it shouldn't take a real welding engineer to build.

Pat

 

[johnk]

It seems if you use a drawbar and a clevis and hook either tongs or a chain to it you have the same thing. If thats what you're talking about.

 

[HomeBrew2]

I'd just build a logging arch and be done with the thinkin' and get on with the doin' ... but that's just me

 

[gemini5362]

I'd just build a logging arch and be done with the thinkin' and get on with the doin' ... but that's just me

ok for us unknowing people. What is a logging arch ?

 

[HomeBrew2]

ok for us unknowing people. What is a logging arch ?

Practically an unlimited supply of links via a simple Yahoo search and, several on TBN (if the search function actually works) but, this link brings an age-old implement up to date

 

[gemini5362]

Thank you for answering my question. That is seriously cool. I would never need one because I dont log but it is nice to increase my pool of knowledge.

 

[uphill]

Couldn't resist my 2 cents worth. I've been a parttime logger since August 05 Hurricane Katrina (lost $72k in pine timber). 3pth boompole - $60, logging tongs - $60, 6 ft chain - $20, pull anything you can get the tongs around = priceless.
Seriously, you can drag/lift practically anything if you hook up closer to the hitch rather that the far end of a boompole. I even use the boompole to lift 1 log, chain it and then tong the second log, lifting both to drag. The boompole will allow you to reach into and over stuff to grab a log. I haven't met a log I couldn't drag yet. Remember the shorter they are, the easier to drag!

 

[MSWoodlot]

I too have been skidding logs with a tractor as a result of Katrina and found the "3-point quick hitch" comes in handy as a device for attaching chains and log tongs. Because of its U-shape, it allows you to lower the hitch over the end of a log where you attach your tongs and chain for skidding. Raising the hitch with the attached log then clears the height of most obstructions (stumps) but not higher than the rear axle. Always have your ROPS in place when skidding logs.

MSWoodlot

 

[Egon]

What about something like this Pat?

 

[Youare]

I also built a logging arch over 20 years ago, then it cost me about $60.00.
It can handle a single 30" diameter log 16' long or 2 or 3 smaller diameter ones.

The good thing is the whole log is off the ground so there is less ground damage and less dirt on the log and less chance of the tractor rearing up from the loog stalling out on a root, stump, or rock.

I mounted a hand operated boat winch on the rear of the arch which can pull a log into place under the arch and lift the back end off the ground. If i get the balance right I can run a chain under the front of the log and lift it off the ground by hand.

Using the 3PH lifted high to pull something as heavy as a log worries me that the front of the tractor could get light without weight in the FEL.

Randy

 

[patrick_g]

It seems if you use a drawbar and a clevis and hook either tongs or a chain to it you have the same thing.

Pulling with considerable force on the center of the bar in youir pix might bend it. That is why I wanted to take the load mainly on the drawbar (trailer hitch thingy well connected to the frame and made for the load.) The pipe thing which would definitely resemble the bar in your pix would serve to be able to raise the effective height of the drawbar without having to take the full load. Also a round chape (pipe) will be kinder to a chain or cable.

Pat

 

[patrick_g]

I'd just build a logging arch ...

Never saw or heard of a logging arch and after looking at your pix (nice stuff!) I still don't know what a logging arch is.

Pat

 

[patrick_g]

What about something like this Pat?

Egon, I'm sure it is wonderful since you already have it and it probably has many other uses but I can build what I described a lot easier.

Pat

 

[patrick_g]

Using the 3PH lifted high to pull something as heavy as a log worries me that the front of the tractor could get light without weight in the FEL.

Randy

Randy, that concern is part of the motivation to build what I described. I spent a day dragging logs out of the woods by putting a chain on my box blade and lifting the end of the log up a bit so it didn't plow. Heavy logs (over 20 ft and over 2 ft diameter) lighten the traction on the front wheels reducing steering control sometimes. I want to lift the front of the log to avoid plowing but I never want to apply the pulling force above the axle height as that is an invitation to a loop the loop.

I hope that I can lower the bar (pipe thingy described) way low, attach the log and then raise the log to prevent plowing but keeping the top of the pipe/bar at or below the height of the center of the axle.

Pat

Pat

 

[patrick_g]

I'd just build a logging arch and be done with the thinkin' and get on with the doin' ... but that's just me

Home brew, Thanks for using the term "logging arch." I searched and found lots of versions.

I don't log enough to warrant that extensive of an implement. If I were seriously trying to supplement my income then some form of logging arch might be the real deal for me. I only rarely take a log I can't pick up with my FEL and pallet forks although sometimes I can only pick up one end at a time. Since the friend where I am logging most recently uses wood supplemental heat, clearing a path through the woods to an area of concentrated large candidate trees just gives him smaller trees to cut up for firewood.

I can usually "walk" a log out of the woods when the log is only 6-8 ft longer than the average width of the trail we clear. If I get to a spot where zigzag turns will not let me clear the trees carrying the log sideways on the forks then we cut another tree for firewood.

I think I will just whip up what I described since it is simple and give it a try. I'll report back the pros and cons after I get a chance to use it.

I load logs to heavy to lift by picking one end up and settign on the dovetail of the trailer and shoving them up. I have a back up plan I haven't had to use. I have two receiver hitches on the front bumper of the truck that pulls the trailer so I could swap ends with the truck which woiuld position the front bumper mounted 12000LB winch to pull lods up on the trailer. When I load heavy logs I put the heavies on first so there is no interference when shoving them into place.

Pat

 

[HomeBrew2]

Home brew, Thanks for using the term "logging arch."

You're quite welcome! Waiting anxiously for some pix of your creation ... and some pix of your other operations as well!
Cheers!

 

[Egon]

Pat, what you see on my tractor would spends most of it's time doing just what you wish to do.

 

[fortyseven2n]

Egon,
No disrespect and I am not trying to be the safety police or anything but the way you are pulling that log is very dangerous !

You should always hook up as low as possible and also pick the butt end of the log higher off the ground.

If you were to snag the log on a stump or even the ground you could be flipped over backwards before you could react.

A far safer way would be to use a boom pole or similar and chain the log as close to the back of the tractor as possible.

You could also use the drawbar and chain but just make sure that the end of the log is high enough not to snag on something.

I am sure that you have done it this way many times and never had any trouble but I think that this is worth noting.

I actually witnessed ( as in I was right there when it happened ) a tractor flip over backwards because it had been hitched above the axle.

Not someting you want to see.....

By the way, the driver had been driving tractors for probably 50+ years .

Just my .02 worth.

Fortyseven2n

 

[Egon]

Yes, I am famliiar with the concern.

Most times the hitch is used to put weight on the rear tires for traction. Many times it cannot lift the log. I always fill the bucket with rocks and travell very slowly as that is as fast as I can go. For my purposes it works well.

But rest assured your comments are valid.

 

[patrick_g]

I have dragged out a trailer load of logs today where a couple dozers were building a huge pond on a friends place. The LogDragger worked OK but I have some improvements in mind if I get time to make them.

Pat