3pt frame

[Kodiak45]

Give me your thoughts on this frame. I plan on using this to attach to a toolbar for a set of planters I'm rebuilding. I was planning on adding gussets to the vertical bar, but the more I look at it, I'm not sure if the pin tabs I welded on will be able to withstand a decent amount of force. I used 3" square tubing 1/8" thick and the pin tabs are 3/8" thick. I think I might should add reinforcement to the tabs from the top side and bottom side of the tubing. I'm not a fabricator nor a welder, but I enjoy doing a little of each, so you can't hurt my feelings with criticism and I would rather learn something from someone than argue. Please give me your thoughts

 

[Fallon]

Looks solid to me. Gussets on the side will help, but assuming you get proper penetration on your existing welds they won't help a lot. Clevis style like you have is a lot stronger than a pin into one tab. A clevis gets pulled straight on both tabs with minimal lateral or twisting force. The pin type are only supported on one side, so get a huge twisting force, bending the tabs.

Its tractor gear, so slapping on more weight & steel for strength benefits strength weight is always good though.

 

[4570Man]

I think it will be fine with a little reinforcements. The good thing is if it breaks you will know who to get to fix it.

 

[Kodiak45]

That's good to hear. Welds seemed to penetrate fine with bevel on pin tabs with mig. I was afraid of burn through with stick and I knew it would at least look good with some solid wire. I have a quick hitch, that this will mainly be used for and I love the clevis style strength as I have seen and dealt with way too many bent and twisted pin types.

 

[Kodiak45]

I think it will be fine with a little reinforcements. The good thing is if it breaks you will know who to get to fix it.

That is true! I like to try and get it right the first round as redoing projects takes way too much time that I don't have.

 

[4570Man]

I think you definitely need more bracing around the tabs. My box blade had 1/2 thick tabs and I still bent them. I added a piece of steel across the top which seems to have fixed the problem. The piece that sticks up needs bracing.

 

[Kodiak45]

I think you definitely need more bracing around the tabs. My box blade had 1/2 thick tabs and I still bent them. I added a piece of steel across the top which seems to have fixed the problem. The piece that sticks up needs bracing.

View attachment 454130



View attachment 454131

my box blade has the same problem, I can barely get the pins on the arms. I bought it this way and haven't had time to get around to fooling with it yet and I was actually planning on cutting out the old 3pt frame and just redoing it all rather than trying to bend it back into shape. I'll add some reinforcement to the tabs and I now have a good excuse to get in the garage this week and play with some metal. I think next frame I do I will probably go with 1/2 inch tabs on the next one

 

[ovrszd]

I think you've got a great start. Brace according to your desired uses. Hard for us to predict weakness. I've got one similar that I use the snot out of on a 95HP tractor. I don't like failure either and usually overkill the build.

When you get the planter setup finished, post pics.

 

[czechsonofagun]

I would put a plate behind the T - like a triangle pointing up and call it. How big is the tractor?

 

[Kodiak45]

added a little support last night. Anybody use a shop press for punching holes? I really hate free hand gouging with my torch.

 

[Kodiak45]

I would put a plate behind the T - like a triangle pointing up and call it. How big is the tractor?

This frame is going on a 3 row planter which will be pulled behind a 50hp. I was debating on using this same design on some larger attachments, cat 2, that would be pulled behind my 110hp. I would like to build a subsoiler or chisel plow of some sort.

 

[czechsonofagun]

I see. It would actually be stronger if the bottom 3pt plates were welded on the end of the cross tubing. Always better to have an overlap welding joint than butt joint. Just like you have it at the top.

I mean dont get me wrong, great job on this, all I am saying is that you could benefit from reading on how welded constructions are built, the strength comes from the design first and quality of the weld second.

 

[ovrszd]

Good addition. That type of bracing adds torsional or twist strength to the horizontal beam as well as lateral bracing to the vertical beam!!!

 

[Kodiak45]

I agree, but I would only be able to weld one tab on the end of the cross tubing, which would surely be stronger, but it would leave the other tab only to be as strong as what's connecting it to that tab. I like the idea of cutting slots in the tubing for the tabs to sit in.

 

[czechsonofagun]

like the idea of cutting slots in the tubing for the tabs to sit in.

Thats how I done the bumper for my jeep. 1/2" plates attach to the frame and go through the bumper where bumper is 4x2 rectangular tubing and tow points are part of the 1/2" plate.

 

[LD1]

The revised version looks fine.

I was concerned after looking at the first pic and seeing that you only used 1/8" wall tubing. I think that would have been the weakest link. But great job on the bracing and I think it will hold up well now.

What others are talking about, and for future reference, leave that end tab longer and weld to the end of the tube. Like I did on my ripper rake build here

Not only is it stronger, but it caps off the end of the tube, so you dont get things like bees that want to nest in there and surprise you when hooking it up

 

[pwright]

Like I did on my ripper rake build here...

Nice ripper!

 

[LD1]

Nice ripper!

Thanks

 

[4570Man]

I think you will be fine now. It looks much stronger now.

 

[bamboozled]

View attachment 454318 added a little support last night. Anybody use a shop press for punching holes? I really hate free hand gouging with my torch.

Looks good to me, it will be plenty strong.

I use a sharp hole saw in the drill press to cut bigger holes. Works great.