3PT hitch adjusting

   / 3PT hitch adjusting #1  

raykos

Silver Member
Joined
May 22, 2007
Messages
132
Location
Central Pa.
Tractor
JD2305
Hi all,

I have a 4' landscape rake I bought at TSC and I'm attaching it to my JD2305's 3pt hitch. First question, should I be able to adjust it's height so that the teeth are about 1/2" above the ground? Second question, how?:confused:

Does anybody know of a site that can explain the different adjustments of the 3pt hitch and what they do?

Thanks,:)
Ray
 
   / 3PT hitch adjusting #2  
Well, you need to look in your manual. Here is a picture from your manual:

OMLVU16738_A6107.jpg


Now, 'a' indicates your lower lift arms. This fit onto the pins on the landscape rake. Up above them (not seen in the picture) is your top link. It hooks into the 'mast' of your landscape rake. The lower lift arms raise and lower the rake, usually by moving a lever on the tractor. But the top link has to be connected or the rake won't come off the ground much even if you raise the lift arms. With the top link attached, screw the top link in or out to shorten or lengthen it. Tighten it up so the rake sits pretty much up and down. Now, if you raise the 3 pt hitch, the rake should raise off the ground and you should be able to adjust it to the height that you want.

If it will not lift off the ground the rake may be too big, or you may need to shorten the lift arm connectors. In the picture, it looks like the rods that come up from your lower lift arms are connected with a braket. It probably has several sets of hole. Use the topmost set of holes to get the most lift.

Once you can get the lift you want, adjust the top link length to get the right angle on the rake.

(Please note, these instructions come from someone who has neither a JD2305 or a landscape rake!)

Good luck.
 
   / 3PT hitch adjusting #3  
The top link (center link) that came with my 2305 was to long to work with some implements, including the Frontier BB that came with the tractor!
Something to watch for.
Also, as N80 said, there is quite a bit of info about that in the manual.
 
   / 3PT hitch adjusting
  • Thread Starter
#4  
Thanks for the responses:) And yes, I did refer to my manual, again and again! And yes, I tried following what it had to say about side to side adjustment, level adjustment, and side to side sway, but nowhere did I find anything about an adjustment for 'height off ground'. I thought that would be the top link, but that adjustment seems to affect the forward/backward angle of the rake tines and how high the rake goes when it's lifted.

However, I'm beginning to wonder if I'm looking for something that doesn't exist? Isn't the downward travel controlled by when the implement touches the ground? So no matter what I do, the hitch only knows the downward limit when the rake hits the ground? But since I'm new at this, I could be wrong?

Thanks,
Ray
 
   / 3PT hitch adjusting #5  
raykos said:
However, I'm beginning to wonder if I'm looking for something that doesn't exist? Isn't the downward travel controlled by when the implement touches the ground? So no matter what I do, the hitch only knows the downward limit when the rake hits the ground? But since I'm new at this, I could be wrong?

Thanks,
Ray

Ray I think you have the right idea, almost. The position control on your tractor adjusts the lower arms by raising them and limiting how far down they will go. If the position control is set to its lowest setting then the implement touching the ground is the control. The lower arms are always free to float up. For your rake if you are on level ground you can set the position control so it holds the rake a ½ inch off the ground. That is if all your ground is perfectly flat. If not perfectly flat when the front of the tractor hits a rise the rake will go down or the front hits a dip the rake will raise. You can somewhat adjust for this by working the position control lever and anticipating changes in terrain.

What really helps with a landscape rake are gauge wheels that trail the rake. The gauge wheels can be set to hold the rake the ½ inch off the ground. With the position control set to its lowest setting, float, the wheels keep the rake from going down as the tractor hits a rise and the float lets the rake stay down as the tractor hits a dip.

MarkV
 
   / 3PT hitch adjusting #6  
Unfortunately, the 2305 doesn't have position control (that most tractors have). The manual doesn't talk about that.
You have to manually set the height with the rockshaft control lever every time you lower the implement. If you almost completely close the rate of drop valve the implement will drop slowly so you can stop it at the desired position with the lever. (Yes, it is a real pita.)
The implement can float up from that position, but won't go any lower.
NOTE: The implement may slowly sink due to minor internal hydraulic leaks. If that becomes a problem, you can close the rate of drop valve to freeze its position. Make sure you open it again before changing height.
Good Luck
 
   / 3PT hitch adjusting
  • Thread Starter
#7  
Thanks guys, appreciate the responses. Yep, think those wheels might be the way to go. Have seen some home made ones using Harbor Freight parts, so I think it's time to be watching their sales catalog.:D

Ray
 
   / 3PT hitch adjusting #8  
davkir said:
Unfortunately, the 2305 doesn't have position control (that most tractors have). The manual doesn't talk about that.

In that case having gauge wheels on the rake is the only practical solution. Anyway, I recommend them for use on any tractor.
 
   / 3PT hitch adjusting #9  
davkir said:
Unfortunately, the 2305 doesn't have position control (that most tractors have). The manual doesn't talk about that.

Opps, my bad. Thanks for the correction Davkir.

MarkV
 
   / 3PT hitch adjusting #10  
I made a major improvement in installing my rear accessories today by changing the attach points on my 3ph. My tractor uses a imatch on the 3ph to carry either a York rake, ballast box or trailer receiver.
Formerly I had to set these items on blocks of varying height so that I could couple to them. And blocks sometimes fall over and make lots of problems.
So today I went out with a tape measure and determined exactly which heights I really needed. Then I played around with the 3ph to determine which holes to use on the link arms.
As a result, I can now store the rake on the ground and easily pick it up, the ballast on small blocks (rust you know) and the trailer hitch has enough lift to hoist my utility trailer tongue to the right height.
As an unanticipated side benefit, the imatch goes on much easier than before. It was a pita to hoist its seventy pound weight with one hand and slide the locking pins in with the other.
 
 

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