3pt hitch stabilizer

[shaeff]

Hey everyone,

I've come to the realization that I should invest in a stabilizer bar or chain(s) for my 3pt hitch. I'm running an 8ft JD 25A flail mower on the back of my '64 Massy 35 Utility. With that big, offset beast hanging off the back, it rocks around a good bit which I'm sure can't be good for either machine. Does anyone have a suggestion on what bar to get? I've only seen them briefly, so I'm off to do some research on how they mount, etc... but any further insight would be appreciated! Thanks!

Edit:

Is it something like this I'm looking for? I expected it to be a bit more heavy duty looking, maybe something with heim joints?
Massey Ferguson 35 Stabilizer Kit, High Alloy - SK100-33XHD

Edit2:

I guess not something with heim joints, it looks like all of those I see are on Massey 135s and used with telescopic lower lift arms. So the above kit mounts to the same area as implement mounts. Will they be heavy enough to withstand backing up with a nearly 700lb flail mower and keep it straight?

Edit3:
or is something like this best? it's definitely much heavier duty, but it's just one side:
Massey Ferguson Stabilizer Kit Right Hand for Massey Ferguson 135,240 - M135-RH

 

[PatrickS2222]

Hi Shaeff, The first one appears correct, but ensure the centre-to-centre lower lift arm length, and that they are Category 1, which has 7/8 inch holes at both ends. Standard I think are 31&1/2 inches, but on your tractor they could have been changed at some stage. I just measured the stabiliser bars from our 35 (I have borrowed them because they fit the 3PL on the loader) :thumbsup: and they also measure 31.5 inch centres.
Our 135 has approx 33 inch arms (they are extremely worn) but, strangely, parts suppliers seem to offer only the shorter version. Its stabiliser arms have a 3rd hole at 31.5 inches - presumably they will suit both version lift arms.
All measurements are approximate - links were fitted to implements and I was measuring with only a tape - in millimetres, then calculating to inches :confused2:

If I were you, my preference would be the bar kit you first mentioned - in High-strength Alloy - as long as the arm length is correct.
Massey Ferguson 35 Stabilizer Kit, High Alloy - SK100-33XHD

This is my choice for two reasons. The links are preferable because they "help" each other (one is stretched and the other is compressed simultaneously) sharing the shock loads between both sets of lift arms, stabiliser arms and their related pins and mounts. This is especially advantageous when carrying heavier implements such as slashers (bush-hogs) and off-set discs. Additionally, I have seen only two broken - on separate occasions, due largely to wear and fatigue. They are, presuming they're of comparable quality material to the genuine item, incredibly strong 3/8" thick spring steel - very hard to bend and almost impossible to break. Our pair are genuine MF parts, 48 years old and still strong and reliable.

A couple years ago when I was using a huge and really heavy soil aerator - albeit well after dark - one linch-pin come out at the front mount of the LH stabiliser - the front end of it dropped off and was pointing straight down and cutting through the hard ground! :ashamed: It took me a good few seconds to ascertain why that heavy tractor suddenly seemed to be loaded up a bit more and was wanting to veer left a little - that bar had to be 18" into hard ground but did not break! I'm still amazed at that - I cannot believe it didn't instantly break across the hole at the implement end ... I guess even I can be lucky sometimes! :thumbsup:

Also offered are chain-type stabilisers: Massey Ferguson 35 Stabilizer Chains, Set - 49A93

While these are convenient and can be adjusted to remove all slack, they are effective only in tension, which adds to the load already on the lift arm mounting point. I've broken one of these and can say, from experience, it was a lot of work to remove the axle housing to renew it.

Send me a PM or an E-mail if you need further help or info.

 

[CCWKen]

I've got the adjustable chain type on my Ford tractor. I've heard the complaints about them but I've never had a problem and they're more precise for fine adjustments and less sway. Much better than a bunch of holes spaced out hoping to get aligned. As with any stabilizer, it's important to get the tractor side attachment in the same axial plane as the lift arm.

 

[Gary Fowler]

The square bar design looks a lot more heavy duty but it lacks an adjustable threaded link (not sure what you call that but like a mini top link)like the chain stabilizers have. I think if that is all that is available, I would go with the chain stabs since they do give some adjustment to fine tune the amount of give that you want the 3 PH to have. You don't want the stabs to be tight to the point that no sway is available at all.
My LS has the square bar with pins to adjust the distance but it also has the threaded coupling adjustment to allow fine adjustment between the pin holes. Also the slotted hole allows each side to give a bit.

Does your tractor already have the pins under the axles where the stabilizers attach? If not you will have to buy the bracket like the first link shows unless you can fab it up yourself.

 

[PatrickS2222]

Gary, a turnbuckle is what you're trying to recall, and yes, they will allow removal of all sway, which as you state is not a good habit, but with chains only one side takes load at a time. Rods with holes and pins aren't as strong as they look - they seem to bend at the drop of a hat.

Maybe I expect too much, but as I stated, they're tough!

Shaeff's tractor should have those mounts in place unless they've been removed for some reason. I can't remember seeing one without them. He's best advised to buy a kit if they aren't there.

 

[shaeff]

Thanks for all the great advice, everyone, I appreciate it!

My machine does not currently have the pins under the axles, maybe they were removed when the loader was installed many years ago? I'm not sure, but I do know that if I try to back up with my offset flail mower, it moves all over the place and I'm sure it's straining my lift arms a good bit.

The spring steel units (first I linked to) look like those that I've seen on tractors of my vintage. I like that they're more of a set/forget type piece, as often times if I have all that extra adjustment I feel like I'll be messing with that rather than mowing or pulling whatever behind me. I also like the way the steel bars distribute the load between push/pull on each side.

I'll snap a pic of my setup this weekend so we can remove all doubt as to what I'm working with here. In the meantime, here's a pic of the machine while I was mowing my field late yesterday, and an experiment with scalping 4'+ high brush down to 1/2"! (Slow moving but looks great!) I increased cut height to the max of 5" after the second pic was taken. In the first pic you can see it's much rougher in the foreground, that's 5" cut height and looks more like a brush hog/slasher style cut

 

[CCWKen]

Gary, a turnbuckle is what you're trying to recall, and yes, they will allow removal of all sway, which as you state is not a good habit, but with chains only one side takes load at a time.

That wouldn't matter if you have something attached. I have a quick hitch so basically my adjustment remains fixed for all implements and there's very little sway. It might be a problem for tractors parts that are stamped out of some flimsy sheet metal though.

 

[twosocks90]

I have the same problem shaeff. I run an 8ft Mott flail mower. Despite having chain stabilizers on the 3pt arms the entire mower can flop from side to side when turning on a hill.

Please post here when you decide what you're going to do. Pictures are always great too.

 

[PatrickS2222]

Here is what I have.
To show original equipment - our 135 is an agricultural spec tractor and thus equipped with swaybars ex factory.
Note the 3rd hole I mentioned earlier to suit 31.5" lift arms on earlier models.



Here is my set-up on the loader - currently a case of "Necessity is the mother of invention" :thumbsup: to an extent, because the lack of stabilisers and check-chains was directly the cause of my breaking the RH lift arm mount. I had temporarily fashioned check-chains - which attach to brackets on the studs around the PTO shaft - which I thought were sufficient, but overlooked that they are not as tight when the arms are at mid-height. I was unfortunate to not realise that, but won't forget it in a hurry! :ashamed:
After renewing that mount and repairing the brake on that side (co-incidentally the one that didn't work) I found the lift arms were the same length as our 35. The loader frame where it attaches to the rear axles has a series of 5/8" holes drilled in the inside edges, one of which lines up almost exactly with the lift arm mounts. A pair of strong 5/8" bolts, two pieces of 5/8" ID 7/8" OD steel tube about 7/16" long allowed me to bolt them as shown below. Bolts are tight against the tubing so holes don't elongate and works very nicely. Last pic shows proper bolt-in mounts with 5/8" shanks - yet to be fitted.



If your loader frame is similar, this may be your best solution. On my machine the factory mount brackets cannot be installed if the loader frame is fitted. Hope this helps. :drink:

 

[LD48750]

The first set you showed will work just fine & do EXACTLY what you want.

Cheap,easy, & efficient.


(Works on my 9N ford & MF50 for all implements.)

 

[PatrickS2222]

The first set you showed will work just fine & do EXACTLY what you want.
Cheap,easy, & efficient.
(Works on my 9N ford & MF50 for all implements.)

Yes, that setup does work well on a lot of makes and models, including our 135. But Shaeff has the same problem with his 35 that I have with my 40 - they both have a loader which mounts to the rear axle at exactly the same place as those brackets - under the mudguard mounts. That's why is is necessary to use the second setup, with the mountings shown in the 3rd pic fitted in place of the "temporary" bolts, spacers and self-locking nuts.
I'm all ears to another way to avoid this problem. :drink:

 

[shaeff]

Ok, it's pouring rain here so I ran out real fast to snap a few poor quality pics. It looks like I have brackets on the bottom of my loader frame and there are circular wear patterns where the pins to mount stabilizers once lived.

Yesterday's tractors doesn't sell the heavy duty bars separately, standard duty are about $16/ea and the pins to mount them are about $3/ea so that's $38. The heavy duty set is $63, and comes with brackets I probably won't need/use.

Thoughts? Should I just get the heavy duty ones anyway (that's what I'm leaning towards)

Pics- if you look at the second pic and enlarge it, you'll see a large hole, then to the left in the pic (forward on the machine) you'll see the rusty brownish color surrounding the hole where I believe the pins would attach for the stabilzers. Looks as easy as bolt the pins in, and install the stabilizers.

 

[LD48750]

Ok, it's pouring rain here so I ran out real fast to snap a few poor quality pics. It looks like I have brackets on the bottom of my loader frame and there are circular wear patterns where the pins to mount stabilizers once lived.

Yesterday's tractors doesn't sell the heavy duty bars separately, standard duty are about $16/ea and the pins to mount them are about $3/ea so that's $38. The heavy duty set is $63, and comes with brackets I probably won't need/use.

Thoughts? Should I just get the heavy duty ones anyway (that's what I'm leaning towards)

Pics- if you look at the second pic and enlarge it, you'll see a large hole, then to the left in the pic (forward on the machine) you'll see the rusty brownish color surrounding the hole where I believe the pins would attach for the stabilzers. Looks as easy as bolt the pins in, and install the stabilizers.

Standard duty bars will do what you want them to do.

Buy the pins & bars & go to work.

 

[PatrickS2222]

Standard duty bars will do what you want them to do.

Buy the pins & bars & go to work.

Yes, I think I can just see the hole in the 2nd pic, just in the background where the lift arm goes behind the axle housing and rear casing. In that area your loader frame looks quite different to mine. That makes your job a lot easier - just fitting forward mount pins and bars. :thumbsup:

Whichever bars you choose all depends on what they will have to contend with - standard bars will be sufficient unless you work frequently in rough or uneven ground, whilst carrying very heavy implements. Given that they are available separately, I'd tend to agree with LD's statement above. Should one break - which I'd say, even though they're non-genuine parts, is unlikely - place a small wager on their quality and go with that.

Remember, it is essential the length matches the lift arm length - measure the centre-to-centre length and ensure they match, or they just will not fit. Sounds like you might need an umbrella

 

[shaeff]

Standard duty bars will do what you want them to do. Buy the pins & bars & go to work.

Good enough! Saving a buck is always a good thing!

Yes, I think I can just see the hole in the 2nd pic, just in the background where the lift arm goes behind the axle housing and rear casing. In that area your loader frame looks quite different to mine. That makes your job a lot easier - just fitting forward mount pins and bars. :thumbsup: Whichever bars you choose all depends on what they will have to contend with - standard bars will be sufficient unless you work frequently in rough or uneven ground, whilst carrying very heavy implements. Given that they are available separately, I'd tend to agree with LD's statement above. Should one break - which I'd say, even though they're non-genuine parts, is unlikely - place a small wager on their quality and go with that. Remember, it is essential the length matches the lift arm length - measure the centre-to-centre length and ensure they match, or they just will not fit. Sounds like you might need an umbrella

My property is uneven, but not so much that it worries me. It's not very rough, and I don't drive quickly with heavy implements so I agree with you both that the standard duty bars should be sufficient.

I ran out and measured, they're about 33.5" center to center, the individual bars are 33.125" center to center, but one side is oblong so I should be good. I've ordered them along with some pins so hopefully by next weekend they'll show up and I can install them.

I'll update with pics once they show up and give my opinion after handling them.

Thanks everyone for the suggestions!

 

[PatrickS2222]

Sounds good to me mate! Let us know how it turns out.

 

[LD48750]

Standard bars work for me on 2 different tractors.
Both have worked the 6' finish mowers, York rakes, back blades, 5' bush hog, boom pole, chipper, & pulled trailers.
(and whatever else I needed them to do)
Have I bent a couple? Yes, when the lynch pin came out & I backed up.
A little heat and a big hammer & back to work.

Most things can be worked with just one bar if need be.

 

[shaeff]

Excellent, I'm hoping they show up this week so I can test them out. I have no problem firing up the torch to straighten them if need be, I enjoy work like that. Besides, I like the ring of the anvil.

I have yet to lose a lynch pin, been clearing some heavy brush too. The type of stuff I back drag with the cutting edge of the bucket, spread in the field, then mulch up. 20yrs of vines make for lots of fun! I've got my lynch pins wired with stainless bailing wire so I don't lose one, at least during this heavy clearing stage. I'm nearly done, may have to borrow my father's rotary brush cutter as my flail isn't quite up to the task of shredding this dense of debris, or maybe it's just my machine. If I hit a pile of that it brings my poor 35 to it's knees, I have to clutch in to stop it from dying completely. I'm likely asking WAY too much of both machines, it's a rotary cutter job for sure. (or a flail with hammer knives)

Next week I leave for our late honeymoon to Hawaii, so I'll be offline for awhile. We got married in September 2015 so it's about time we took off from work and spent some time alone! (hoping my parts show up before then! )

 

[PatrickS2222]

LD - Yes, that's about the only time they should bend. They otherwise should be of sufficient quality spring steel to not bend under normal use, although I would always use both, I'd never use only one.

I've lost several lynch pins - strangely always from the loader bucket mounting pins. I've since tied these with wire as well.

Shaeff - Slowly and steadily ... they're meant to work, and they work well. Does it have a 2-stage clutch? If so, it's a distinct advantage in heavy PTO-driven work. Otherwise you have to rely on your judgement, or be ready to lift when the engine begins to labour. Also, glad to see you back-drag your bucket - I found out the hard way that you can't do that going forward. One tilt cylinder rod broke off the clevis attaching it to the bucket. They had both been welded sometime in the past - I suspect rather poorly - so I just re-welded it properly, with no subsequent problems.

Anyway, enjoy your honeymoon and a well-earned break in sunny Hawaii :thumbsup: Return relaxed and refreshed!

 

[shaeff]

LD - Yes, that's about the only time they should bend. They otherwise should be of sufficient quality spring steel to not bend under normal use, although I would always use both, I'd never use only one.

I've lost several lynch pins - strangely always from the loader bucket mounting pins. I've since tied these with wire as well.

Shaeff - Slowly and steadily ... they're meant to work, and they work well. Does it have a 2-stage clutch? If so, it's a distinct advantage in heavy PTO-driven work. Otherwise you have to rely on your judgement, or be ready to lift when the engine begins to labour. Also, glad to see you back-drag your bucket - I found out the hard way that you can't do that going forward. One tilt cylinder rod broke off the clevis attaching it to the bucket. They had both been welded sometime in the past - I suspect rather poorly - so I just re-welded it properly, with no subsequent problems.

Anyway, enjoy your honeymoon and a well-earned break in sunny Hawaii :thumbsup: Return relaxed and refreshed!

I've seen my father lose lynch pins while doing heavy clearing, so I wanted to avoid that altogether. My machine does have a 2 stage clutch, so far I've been rolling into the mess of vines that I laid out in the field and doing exactly as you say, just a bit at a time. I just think with a brush hog/slasher/rotary it'll go much more quickly because the weight of the blades and centrifugal force will help propel the cutter through the heavy debris. The flail doesn't have that kind of force behind it.

I think if I tried dragging the bucket forward, I'd just lose traction. My tires are well worn and in need of chains (which I have, just no time to cut to size)

Usually when I'm clearing this type of heavy overgrowth, I'll power in with the bucket about 3" off the ground to make sure I don't contact a stump I can't see with the front mounted hydraulic pump. As I start to break traction, I'll lift the bucket all the way up which usually tears a lot of the vines apart. Then back up just a touch, flip the bucket straight down and drive forward so the cutting edge of the bucket is past all the growth I tore out, and bring the bucket down to ground level just until my front wheels become unloaded a bit. Then back out, bringing all that debris with me. I'll post some pics of that sometime soon, too. I've been very busy trying to get lots done before winter.

Thanks for the kind wishes, we both need a break for sure!