3pt hitch swinging

[BGigHarbor]

Stupid question warning:

I have a new Kubota l5460 which I am loving.

Confess I am new to tractor world.

I am currently using a heavy box blade (with an OEM tnt)and when driving around on uneven ground with the blade up the BB can swing far enough to each side for the arms to touch the inside of each tire.

Is that something I should adjust away in the 3pt hitch itself? Doesn't happen often, but seems like it can't be good.

Just want a reality check for what is normal before I try to adjust it.

 

[TripleR]

Some movement is to be expected, but it should not be coming into contact with your tires.

 

[leonz]

Stupid question warning:

I have a new Kubota l5460 which I am loving.

Confess I am new to tractor world.

I am currently using a heavy box blade and when driving around on uneven ground with the blade up the BB can swing far enough to each side for the arms to touch the inside of each tire.

Is that something I should adjust away in the 3pt hitch itself? Doesn't happen often, but seems like it can't be good.

Just want a reality check for what is normal before I try to adjust it.

Also seems like my 3ph is suddenly much slower to lower than it was. It's at the other property right now, but I read in another thread a mention of a valve to control that. I'll look through my manual.

Some movement is to be expected, but it should not be coming into contact with your tires.

AS Triple R has said it should not do this. NOW with your mule
you should have stop chains and or turnbuckles to adjust the amount of
sideways movement you have for your mule.

THE other issue is that you most likely have an adjustable right lower link
on your tractor and it is either the type that is pinned in place or it has a
rack and pinion that permits it to move in and out and it also locks in place
after it is adjusted.

 

[TripleR]

I just did a quick search using "sway" in the title and there are a bunch of short and not so short threads on this with a variety of opinions.

 

[jeff9366]

As you know, your L5460 is a Kubota 'Grand L' with pin adjustable stabilizers standard as part of the 3-Pt. hitch.

Lower the mounted Box Blade/3-Pt. until there is no/very little weight on the stabilizers. Pull the stabilizer pins. Lean on the Box Blade until it is centered, replace the pins with minimum slack side-to-side. That should do it.

You may have to rock the Box Blade side-to-side and pull/replace one pin a couple of times to reduce slack.

Do not lift your Box Blade too high when transporting it. Too high and the weight of the BB will make the 3-Pt slop to one side then the other side as you traverse uneven ground and tractor weight shifts.

If clearance is still insufficient I expect you can lengthen the Lower Links a notch or two to increase clearance. ( I have no experience with Kubota telescoping Lower Links.)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xeh23Csx1QM

 

[BGigHarbor]

Thanks.

In looking through the manual just now, I see it that it calls for more lateral movement for certain implements (subsoiler, plow) and less play for others (blades, carriers).

Good to know.

 

[TripleR]

Yep, growing up we ran some equipment with and some without stabilizer bars as they were not adjustable. If one got bent, we took it off and ran over it to straighten then put it back on.

 

[leonz]

Thanks.

In looking through the manual just now, I see it that it calls for more lateral movement for certain implements (subsoiler, plow) and less play for others (blades, carriers).

Good to know.

extending the right lower link permits the tip of the plow share to
create more suck and plow much deeper in the best example.

 

[jeff9366]

Less play for Box Blades. Quite a lot of draft force is required to pull a full Box Blade. You want resistance distributed equally between the two Lower Links. Some force will also push on the Top Link, but less.

I trust you have adjusted your Box Blade level with the right adjustable Lifting Rod. (Left side is non-adjustable unless you have TnT, in which case right Lifting Rod is normally moved to the left side, so both sides are adjustable via Lifting Rods, right hydraulic, left manual.)

Adjusting the Lower Link stabilizers for snugness is 85%, Lifting Link adjustment maybe 10%, Other 5%.

 

[BGigHarbor]

Leveling with tilt from TnT.

 

[jeff9366]

Being obsessive, I keep a cheap 6" Torpedo Level on the tractor, to gauge level implements. Saves time and implement really IS level.

 

[k0ua]

Ok, let me try... You do know that on your telescoping stabilizer bars, you will have a section that does not have a single hole, but an "oval" cutout to allow slack in the telescoping bar?.

You will have this on both bars, left and right. But if you want very little slack then choose a hole outside of this "oval" cutout area. On a box blade or some other implement you want very little movement side to side, and certainly never want it to touch either tire, do this procedure.

On level flat ground, raise the box-blade just off of the ground. Get behind it and look to see if it is centered down the center-line of the tractor. You will be able to swing it side to side a bit with your knee, but with the pins of the stabilizer bars in single holes, you should not be able to move it a whole lot. If it is not centered, remove both pins and push the implement with your knee or hands until it is centered and find the nearest pin hole that lines up and drop in the pin, and go to the other side and find that pin hole and drop in the pin. You may have to "jostle" the implement just a tad to get the pin holes lined up. The only reason I can think of for the box-blade to swing to the sides enough to hit your tires is that you have the stabilizer pins perhaps in the cutout area of the stabilizer, or have the implement on offset to one side.. A picture would help. I hope this has been of some assistance.

James K0UA

 

[BGigHarbor]

I am aware of the telescoping arms (which was one of the reasons I liked the Grand L) and the pin/slot option. I was assuming the pins were in the holes (not slots) but I guess I don't remember for sure and my pic makes me wonder. That would clearly be a cause of the behavior if in the slots.

Since it came from the dealer with the BB installed, I had assumed it was all set up correctly. But then noticed the major sway as I went over uneven ground with 1000lb implement raised.

The BB is mounted on the Cat II pins but there is still enough room if the 3pt was more rigid.

I'll check it out again this weekend.


edit: I found a post that talks about adjusting for a little extra sway when using am hydraulic tilt to prevent some sort of possible binding. Not sure what that is about.

 

[Sysop]

I've found with my telescoping style links, some implements sway less with them extended rather than drawn in. Over time I've learned it's all about what works best for a given situation.

 

[BGigHarbor]

Being obsessive, I keep a cheap 6" Torpedo Level on the tractor, to gauge level implements. Saves time and implement really IS level.

I hear you.

In some ways I like the hydraulic tilt, but the disadvantage for me at this early stage is that the blade settles fairly fast tilt wise and I am not confident I always get it dead level each time I reset it.

The ground I am working mostly is very soft, and is neither flat nor level for an easy reference, so at times I have considered swapping out the tilt for the rigid link to avoid the issue until I get more experienced. One fewer variables.

The top is very nice, though, with the BB.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

I hear you.

In some ways I like the hydraulic tilt, but the disadvantage for me at this early stage is that the blade settles fairly fast tilt wise and I am not confident I always get it dead level each time I reset it.

The ground I am working mostly is very soft, and is neither flat nor level for an easy reference, so at times I have considered swapping out the tilt for the rigid link to avoid the issue until I get more experienced. One fewer variables.

The top is very nice, though, with the BB.

If you feel that your tilt cylinder is dropping to fast, and you are considering installing the mechanical unit, just do this. With the implement on the ground, adjust the tilt how you want it (level?) and unplug the hoses for now. That will lock the cylinder in place. There is no reason to take it off.