3pt splitter valve issue

[RobertN]

I just bought a used Deere "32" 3pt splitter. Before buying, the seller hooked up to his tractor, and we split a couple rounds of oak. Worked perfect.

Yesterday, I had everything hooked up, with a little help from Jinman and the NH forum. I'm trying to run this thing on a NH TC40D.I had to extend the hoses. While I had the hoses off, I moved the ram in/out and got most of the old fluid out. It(fluid) was clear and clean. Once hooked up, I cycled the system back/forth to make sure fluid flowed, and hopefully purge the air from the system.

Now, when the cylinder retracts, the valve does return to center. When the ram is fully retracted, the back side of the valve, spurts fluid. In the picture of the back of the valve, the red arrow points to a sleeve. When the ram is retracted to its limit, that sleeve move out 1/4-3/8", and fluid flows out(all over back of tractor). Not under super high pressure, but enough to spray the back of the tractor.

With the valve in the center position, the ram is moving out(extending) now. Not, under full pressure; it stops easily against a log. Then when I push the lever to split, it splits the log.

I have only run up to about 1500-1600 rpm on the tractor.

I am not sure what is happening. My only theory, is my tractor has better flow(9.8gpm) then the other guys JD( he said 5 gpm for his tractor). Maybe I have enough flow, that it took out some weak seals in the valve?

Any idea what to do? Can seals in the valve be replace? O-rings?

There are no make/model numbers visible. Guessing will have to unbolt it and look underneath?

Even with it leaking, it split nice. I split up a few oak rounds, that were about 18" across. Even at low rpm on the tractor, it split those rounds easily.

 

[RobertN]

In the above pictures, you can see the adjuster nut on the back side of the valve. I tried to turn it; the whole shaft turns in the valve body. I tried to tighten it a little, but it does not budge(I dont want to put too much pressure and break it...)

All that fluid is since I got it hooked up. When I brought it home, it was dusty, but that is all.

Also, here are a couple more pictures, and some split oak.

 

[J_J]

Some valves have seals that can be replaced. What brand of valve is it? Other valve spools are a precision fit and when worn, the valve must be replaced.

 

[RobertN]

There are no visible marking. I will have to unbolt it from it's mount to see the underside of the valve. Will try to do that after dinner.

What brand of valve is it?

 

[J_J]

Is the valve a log splitter valve with detent on the return stroke?

 

[RobertN]

Yes, it has a detent on the return.

I should say, as far as markings visible, are only "IN" and "Out" by the respective hose ports.

 

[jinman]

Robert, look at the picture below. There was a cover over that spring and rubber bushing at some time. It was a round can held on with two screws. You can see the rust pattern where it was at one time. It almost looks to me like some type of jury rig to make the return to center work and the "can" was discarded.

Also, look at the long hexagonal stem on the right. Is that a cover that can be removed using an open-end wrench? Maybe there is a detent pressure adjustment under that when it is removed.

The cover missing from your valve is like the one in the photo below on the back of my remote valve.

 

[RobertN]

Here are more pictures. I removed the mounting bolts so I could turn the valve on its side. I wire brushed dust off the rest of it too. After all that, the only marks I can find are on the top, the "In" and "out" for the respective ports.

What brand of valve is it?

 

[RobertN]

I could see where there might have been a cover like you mention. I wounder if the cover contained the excess fluid, acting partly as a cover, partly as a reservoir?

I ran out with a flashlight, and removed that hex stem. There is an adjustment under there...

Only problem is, I am not sure where to start... Try adjusting that, find a cover, or?

Robert, look at the picture below. There was a cover over that spring and rubber bushing at some time. It was a round can held on with two screws. You can see the rust pattern where it was at one time. It almost looks to me like some type of jury rig to make the return to center work and the "can" was discarded.

Also, look at the long hexagonal stem on the right. Is that a cover that can be removed using an open-end wrench? Maybe there is a detent pressure adjustment under that when it is removed.

 

[J_J]

That is your detent release pressure adjustment. You can set it for different pressures. The cap is missing and would have helped to keep the parts from rusting. The hex nut on the side is for the relief setting.

Prince detent release settings usually run about 1000 to 2000 psi.

Does the valve still detent in the retract mode? Whoever messed with the valve may have removed the detent.

 

[RobertN]

I have to reconnect everything and run it again in the morning

I had to unbolt the valve from it's mount. Also had to disconnect the hard lines that went from the valve to they cylinder.Kids already in bed, so till the AM

 

[jinman]

J_J and I are in full agreement on that valve. The detent and retract spring have been messed with some and may just be very problematic trying to get them to work properly without leaking.

BTW: If you have to replace the whole valve, Surplus Center has these valves at good prices:

Good Valve

Better Valve

 

[SSdoxie]

The cover that is missing has a shoulder in it that pushes against back side of the flat washer keeping pressure on the centering/return spring. Without it the spool can not center correctly and allows your cylinder to drift out. The return from detent won't work without spring pressure pushing against the end of that cover, and that spring also pushes against the collar next to the valve which has a seal under so when you retract the spring pressure releases, collar loosens and oil leaks. You will need to identify the valve and get a new end cap/centering kit or buy a new valve.

 

[RobertN]

I'm checking for local vendors that may have parts, or a replacement. Used to be a place close by, but they moved a couple years ago.

 

[jinman]

I think if I couldn't find the cover, I'd make myself a couple of locking tabs with holes in them and use screws to tighten them down flat against that protruding cylinder so it doesn't pop out under pressure. You might as well keep the jury-rig going. See below.

 

[thomastractorsvc]

I would take the valve to a hydraulic shop and see if they have a cover to fit and have it serviced, new o rings and pressure adjusted with a gage. If they cant find a cover, dont fix it buy a new valve about $100. The repair should be about $25-30 with a cover. Don't try and rig it somehow, it will only cause injury, frustration and money.

 

[J_J]

Unless you have a parts manual or another valve to compare, you don't even know is the correct parts are there.

https://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?item=9-1262&catname=hydraulic

https://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?item=9-7724&catname=hydraulic

The second valve has a set detent relief of 1100 psi, and the upper link has an adjustable detent relief of 1000 to 2000 psi.

 

[RobertN]

I went to a couple local places today.

- My local tractor shop, he saw the rust on the the uncovered parts, and thought it best just to replace the valve. He said to order it online... Parts may be available, but by the time found them, would be cheaper to just order one.
- The local power tool store(chainsaws, splitters, mowers ect) is new; they could order a valve. But they recommended that I see my local tractor guy... They do not have much stock yet.
- A few miles away is a True-Valu, which also sells JD on the side. Since this is a JD "32" splitter, they were able to look it up. I saw the missing cap on the parts blow-up. Discontinued valve, with no other info. The parts guy checked to see if they had some old valves saved for spare parts, but no luck.
- The other places for hydraulics are a long enough drive, that I might as well order a new valve vs spending the fuel to drive across Sacramento.
- There used to be a much closer hydraulics shop, but the gentleman passed away. The family kept it open for a short time after. But, it is gone now.
- The greater Sacramento area is a sizable market, but all the places I would go pretty much negate the value, after I spend a tank of gas running around.

So, I am leaning towards Jinman's Texas fix, and order a new valve.....

Otherwise, at best it is cost of parts and fuel. And time. That would be more than a new valve.

 

[J_J]

Just order this valve and be done with it.

https://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?item=9-7724&catname=hydraulic

 

[RobertN]

Just ordered it...

Just order this valve and be done with it.