3py doesn't move

[Brokermike]

I was getting ready to hook up my boom pole to the 3pt hitch on my new DK40 this weekend and SURPRISE, it didn't move. Is there some sort of secret squirrel technique I should know about aside from just lowering the lever?

 

[Dodgeram]

I have a Ck30, so I don't really know if the DK has one, but there is a knob below the seat by the floorboard which controls the flow rate to the 3pt.
I've accidently "adjusted" it a couple of times with my foot and turned the flow off altogether.
Also, I have accidently engaged the rear remote lever.
After reading this reply, I sound like an accident waiting to happen
Hope this helps.
Tom

 

[VictorW]

We all have those; I can't believe I did that, times.

I'm sure a DK40 owner will help you if the knob doesn't work.

 

[rd_macgregor]

The flow adjustment knob is almost certainly the culprit. I had the same problem last fall. The hitch arms would go up but not down. The dealer straightened me out pretty quick; I should have just come here for the solution.

 

[wallace]

I was getting ready to hook up my boom pole to the 3pt hitch on my new DK40 this weekend and SURPRISE, it didn't move. Is there some sort of secret squirrel technique I should know about aside from just lowering the lever?

First thing first...
Make sure you did not bump the a aux remote lever into it's detent position.
Make sure you have your draft control lever all the way forward and leave it forward.

 

[wallace]

The flow adjustment knob is almost certainly the culprit. I had the same problem last fall. The hitch arms would go up but not down. The dealer straightened me out pretty quick; I should have just come here for the solution.

You will still be able to raise the 3 point with the knob closed.
All that knob dose is restrict how fast the 3 pt will fall.

 

[Brokermike]

I keep a close eye on that Aux lever! I bet it's the adjustment knob. The 3pt hitch raised up the other day, but when I went to drop it it didn't go down. I even stood on it! (and Rick can attest that when I stand on something it's likely to give!). I'm going to check the knob when I get home. I'm amazed at what that tractor can lift. I snagged a set of used pallet forks (Bradco's) for cheap and was stacking 21"x15ft pine like it was kindling wood

 

[IslandTractor]

First thing first...
Make sure you did not bump the a aux remote lever into it's detent position.
Make sure you have your draft control lever all the way forward and leave it forward.

Been there, done that. I've never quite understood the interaction between the draft control and the 3PT control but I had exactly the same problem once or twice too on my DK40se. Sometimes you inadvertently grab the draft control lever when reaching for the 3PT control as they are right next to each other. As moving the draft control doesn't do much of anything for many implements (eg mower) you forget that you moved it even after you recognize your error and switch over to the 3PT control. If you leave the draft control back it does lead to exactly the symptoms described. Returning draft control position to full forward solves the problem immediately.

As Rick also pointed out if you have the rear remote lever engaged it will also disable the 3PT. However, as explained to me by Senor Rick, doing that is not such a trivial error. Engaging the rear remote with no circuit open can harm the hydraulic pump by deadheading the system. He didn't tell me exactly how long you could leave it engaged without causing harm but he did note that it was not considered a warranty item. If you've ever seen Rick try to look stern you'll realize that he was serious (I'm guessing it is the same look his daughter gets when being told what time to be home on a Saturday night). I'm sure leaving the remote deadheaded doesn't hurt immediately but working for any period with the valve engaged but no load or open circuit is bad. Some people use a short section of hydraulic hose with two male fittings permanently attached to the remote fittings just to keep an open circuit (ie avoid deadheading the system) just in case the remote lever gets activated.

 

[warhammer]

When the dealer delivered my DK45 it did the same thing right off the truck.
The delivery guy did not know about the flow rate knob and when he phoned home the service manager did not think of it either.
The tractor was almost on its way to going 75 miles back up the road when I remembered something about the adjustment knob from reading the owners manual and gave it a try.


Warhammer

I have a Ck30, so I don't really know if the DK has one, but there is a knob below the seat by the floorboard which controls the flow rate to the 3pt.
I've accidently "adjusted" it a couple of times with my foot and turned the flow off altogether.
Also, I have accidently engaged the rear remote lever.
After reading this reply, I sound like an accident waiting to happen
Hope this helps.
Tom

 

[IslandTractor]

Just to clarify something Rick has already pointed out. Replies are not differentiating clearly so I thought I'd try to state it again.

There are a couple of simple things that could cause the 3PT not to respond as expected on a DK40se. The first is the little valve near the operators heel that sets the rate at which an implement goes down. The MLS valve (I can never remember the official name) is also present on the CK series. When that valve is overly slow in it's setting, the 3PT will still go up it just won't come down. It is pretty simple to set it to "fast" or "rabbit" and then try the 3PT again. If that valve was set to slow then the 3PT will work after the adjustment.

The second mix up is what I described earlier (and Rick pointed out). The DK series has draft control and if that lever is not fully forward it limits the 3PT control in both up and down directions. That is not an issue with the CK tractors and I'm guessing that most of us with DK tractors have had that experience once or twice.

 

[Brokermike]

can someone explain the idea of having a short section of hose made for the remotes to avoid any deadheading issue?

 

[IslandTractor]

can someone explain the idea of having a short section of hose made for the remotes to avoid any deadheading issue?

1) rear remotes have female connectors
2) take a piece of 3/8 or 1/2 inch hydraulic hose that is long enough to form a loop back on itself without kinking (probably 18" to 24" is my guess).
3) have male quick connect fittings installed on both sides of the hose piece. (see note below about using 90 degree hose couplers too)
4) connect each male fitting to one of the female rear remote outlet fittings
5) you're done.

What this does is allow fluid to flow when the valve is opened (accidentally). As I understand it there is no performance penalty and the only downside is that you have a piece of vulnerable hose to watch out for. A few zipties should handle that however as you can secure the hose out of the way of the 3PT. The shortest piece of hose to make a loop may not actually be the best way to do it as that would limit your ability to secure the hose in a safe area. I'd probably have the hose long enough so the loop itself was secured forward of, not behind, the remote fittings. That allows the fenders/seat area to protect the hose.

Another point, you can get 90 degree brass/steel hose crimp fittings that would also help keep the exposed hose to a minimum by avoiding having the hose project behind the tractor before looping.

If you are not familiar with hydraulic fittings, talk to your dealer. Rick Wallace could do it easily as he has the exact tractor to use as a model and he makes up custom hydraulic hoses all the time.