3rd & Final Pic for Now

catsco · May 4, 2004

This is from the RIGHT side of the machine. Note that the hydraulic oil filter is VERY accessible.

The current 8" or so longer length has been well used for ease of maintenance and repair.

SIDE NOTE--Is this muffler USDA approved as far as being a spark arrestor? The last person careless with fire in our part of the country burned 100,000 acres. Yes, that is One Hundred Thousand acres.

Mark H.

Gatorboy · May 4, 2004

3rd picture, yet it is the FIRST post in this thread?

It appears you started a NEW thread for each photo. /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif It would be much better for you to keep all of your pictures together in the same thread.

Inspector507 · May 4, 2004

Yes........make a post then reply to yourself and add your next picture there. Makes it easier to only follow one thread instead of three.

SnowRidge · May 4, 2004

( SIDE NOTE--Is this muffler USDA approved as far as being a spark arrestor? )

I doubt it. I vaguely recall getting some sort of certificate with an engine that met the spark arrestor requirement.

SnowRidge

Clarke · May 4, 2004

Looks just like mine, yours is a lot cleaner. Now its time to start having fun and get it a little dirty.

sg

catsco · May 5, 2004

Oops--

Sorry - didn't know about having separate threads; or not. If I struggle with mechanical devices I can see, you can imagine how clueless I am about 'virtual' devices. /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif

Mark H.

MossRoad · May 5, 2004

Well, I see you've been brought up to speed on the one thread per subject, post all your pictures by replying to yourself type instructions. /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif

So, your hydraulic filter is in the same location as mine, only a foot higher. Mine is down in the engine compartment in the front right corner. Yours will be much easier to change. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

As others have mentioned, they keep changing designs and tweaking it to improve the product. I like that. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

catsco · May 5, 2004

Hi MossRoad--

I agree about the 'tweaks', but for some items there's not a better or worse way, just different. e.g., the hydraulic filter is not changed that often, so ease of access is not critical.

I do have a question for you, though, regarding lubrication of the lift arms, etc.

My manual (other have noted that it needs work!) shows lube points at the 'rollover' arms, the part that is assembled by welding, and therefore not easily repairable, and another two at the lift arm ball bushings at the top. There are no grease fittings there.

It also says to lube all of the ball bushings. How do you do that? I assume you can twist the cylinder a bit and apply grease to the ball, but that's not possible on the lift arm ball bushings, as they can't be moved at all.

Also, right now, it seems that all of the ball bushings are lubed only with the remaining paint on them. They are totally dry.

Hope you have some advice. I called PT, but they are busy right now, suggested I send a FAX for quick response.

Seems they still would rather run up phone bills with their toll-free number and FAXes rather than us e-mail. Not a criticism of PT, just an observation.

Thanks!
Mark H.

smartguyz · May 5, 2004

( Hi MossRoad--

I agree about the 'tweaks', but for some items there's not a better or worse way, just different. e.g., the hydraulic filter is not changed that often, so ease of access is not critical.

I do have a question for you, though, regarding lubrication of the lift arms, etc.

My manual (other have noted that it needs work!) shows lube points at the 'rollover' arms, the part that is assembled by welding, and therefore not easily repairable, and another two at the lift arm ball bushings at the top. There are no grease fittings there.

It also says to lube all of the ball bushings. How do you do that? I assume you can twist the cylinder a bit and apply grease to the ball, but that's not possible on the lift arm ball bushings, as they can't be moved at all.

Also, right now, it seems that all of the ball bushings are lubed only with the remaining paint on them. They are totally dry.

Hope you have some advice. I called PT, but they are busy right now, suggested I send a FAX for quick response.

Seems they still would rather run up phone bills with their toll-free number and FAXes rather than us e-mail. Not a criticism of PT, just an observation.

Thanks!
Mark H. )

Mark -

The manual is indeed lacking. I also noted the discrepancy in the manual - and asked Terry about what they meant about greasing zerk fittings that don't exist. He mentioned something about the older models having grease fittings because they had a different design on the lift arms that required grease. He said the new design was 'better' in his opinion, and that it was supposed to just be 'spray greased' - I use the SuperLube (which PT recommends), which you can purchase at Lowe's inexpensively. I just wipe them down, and spray the lubricant (which tends to cling until it drys, which then turns into a thick film) on all ball joints. It seems to work quite well.

Sincerely,

-Rob

/forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

catsco · May 5, 2004

Rob--

Thanks for the advice. That sounds reasonable. The ball bushings are the same size as ones used on heavier applications.

I was considering modifying the bolts and balls by drilling a very small hole 2/3 through the bolt, and then into that passage from the side, and also through the ball and installing a grease fitting, but that's a lot of work and may weaken the bolts too much.

So for now, I'll try the spray lube.

Again, Thanks!
Mark H.