3rd Function Selector Valve Install on JD 4310

[Olsen]

I assume the 4310 doesnt have a regen curl function?

Some tractors that do have that you have no choice but to divert the lift/lower

It takes a little getting used to, but the only way.

 

[kennyd]

I assume the 4310 doesnt have a regen curl function?

Some tractors that do have that you have no choice but to divert the lift/lower

It does indeed have regen, but it's a detented position past the regular dump position.

 

[LD1]

It does indeed have regen, but it's a detented position past the regular dump position.

As long as its the second position it souldnt be an issue.

If regen is first position....it makes it a PITA to feather having to first push past the deten to get into the normal dump mode.

I have no issues with my MX on the lift/lower circuit. Its almost instinctive for me since the grapple lid moves fore and aft....thats the motion I make with the joystick. But I can see where also using it for something like angling a snowplow you would want to use the curl to make it feel natural

 

[LD1]

It takes a little getting used to, but the only way.

Its not a "getting used to" thing. If you had a regen valve like my MX....you simply cannot use the curl circuit.

 

[TractorGuy]

All I can tell you is I channeled my selector valve on the curl function and it works fine.

In normal loader mode I do get the floppy bucket syndrome sometimes which I have read is caused by regen. When it happens I just have to raise the loader and cycle the bucket a couple times and it will maintain curl down pressure after that.

 

[LD1]

All I can tell you is I channeled my selector valve on the curl function and it works fine.

In normal loader mode I do get the floppy bucket syndrome sometimes which I have read is caused by regen. When it happens I just have to raise the loader and cycle the bucket a couple times and it will maintain curl down pressure after that.

Floppy bucket is actually cause by lack of Regen.

Regen puts pressure to BOTH hoses. The result is the cylinder still extends....because the piston surface area is greater on the backside than the front.

But it prevents gravity (with a heavy load) from trying to dump the bucket faster than the pump can fill it with oil.

That's what happens without Regen and gives you the floppy bucket, because the cylinder is only half full of oil

 

[MELEON]

Finished up the 3rd function selector valve install on my 4310 today.

Ordered the 60" RK5 grapple set up for JD from MTL on Saturday evening. Got a call from them today telling me they have 4 more to deliver in my area and should be here on Thursday.

I already had a pair of 3/8" hoses from a previous project that were about the right length so I used those for the grapple connections. I made my own handle to save another buck. I used a 12V solenoid type selector valve to switch the bucket curl hydraulic ports to operate the grapple clamp. So without further ado here goes an attempt at describing how I went about it.

My material list: (your needs may differ)
1 - DSV-62-08-12 selector valve. Shop around but I bought mine from Bailey Hydraulics.
4 - #8 ORB to #6 ORFS 90* adapters.
2 - #8 ORB to 3/8" NPT 90* adapters (you may need different depending on what ends you have on long hoses)
3 - #8 ORB male to female standoffs
2 - 24" hoses with #6 ORFS straight ends
2 - long hoses with quick disconnects for grapple
1 - short piece of 3" channel iron
2 - 1/4"x3" bolts with lock nuts
1 - 1-1/2" pipe 5" long
1 - 1" pipe 1" long
1 - 5/8" nut
1 - 1/2" flat washer
1 - momentary switch. I used a 50 amp starter switch. (overkill)
1 - polarity type wiring connector. I used a 50 amp battery connector. (overkill)
1 - fuse tap
2 - 16ga eyelet connectors

Not counting the long hoses I already had I have $262 in this setup.

To make my handle I cut a piece of 1-1/2" pipe about 5" long. I found a flat washer the switch would fit in that covered the top of the pipe. I welded the flat washer on top of the 1-1/2" pipe and cleaned it up with a flap wheel. The loader handle tube is 5/8" course thread so I just used a nut for that. I pressed the nut into a short piece of 1" pipe and welded it for piece of mind. I drilled and tapped two holes in the bottom of the 1-1/2" pipe to secure it to the 1" pipe with the nut in it. I dremeled a hole in the bottom of the loader handle tube under the boot. I wanted to route the wire all the way through but it bottomed out so I think the end of the loader handle tube is blocked off. I ran the wire through the handle tube and routed it under the tractor and back up at the right side of the cowl. I ran one end to the plus side of the grapple connector and the other to the fuse panel. I connected it to the fuse panel at the unused trailer option with a fuse tap. The fuse tap I had from a dash cam and was light gauge wire in a 10A fuse. I connected a ground wire to one of the QD bracket bolts. The solenoid only draws 2-1/2 amps so heavy wire and a relay are not needed.

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To mount the selector valve I cut a short piece of 3" channel iron and drilled two holes to line up with the top holes of the valve. Those particular holes were tapped 5/16" fine thread on the bottom so I just used some 1/4" x 3" bolts and lock nuts to pass through. I had to grind some of the bevel under the channel for the nuts to sit flat in. I welded the channel onto the top of the right loader arm near the rear pivot.

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I installed the adapters in the valve with the main ports and the opposite ports all facing rearward. I installed the adapters for the grapple hoses facing forward. The ports are close together so you have to install the first adapter then the one behind it with a standoff adapter. This won't be needed if you use straight connections but I don't see a better way to hook it up.

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To connect it to the tractor you have to remove the two bucket hoses and connect them to the outer IN ports on the selector valve. Then you connect the opposing ports of the valve back to the bucket line connections. Finally you connect the top ports to the grapple hoses.

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The DIN connector for the valve has an LED in it so you need to get the polarity right on that. You connect the positive wire to the right side where the resistor is in front of the LED and the negative wire to the left where the other lead for the LED is.

I routed the wires from the valve through the hose protector and put the other wiring end on so it could be disconnected with the loader if need be. I filled the back sides of both connectors with silicone to keep moisture out. The disconnect I used was for much larger wire so I just wrapped the wire I used with some heavy gauge wire, crimped, soldered, and heat shrinked the connections prior to sealing.

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I know this is an old thread, but do you recall what the thread/ fitting size are between the hard lines and the hoses?