KennedyDiesel
Veteran Member
Me too back when my tractor (06 model) was almost new.
Not true unless one runs "over relief" frequently.
3x20 300CX hydraulic operating pressure
- Thread starter Nitro-Fish
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Me too back when my tractor (06 model) was almost new.
Not true unless one runs "over relief" frequently.
If you're not running "over relief" then why bother to boost the pressure!? Boosting system pressure beyond specification, means that you are often "over relief" pressures. You are just not cracking the relief valve. Being new to this forum doesn't mean I was born yesterday. Increased pressure allows you to move loads that you would not, normally, be able to move. This increased pressure on the cylinders is manifested in scoring of the piston from rubbing the inside of the cylinder wall. Just because someone has made an adjustment and gotten away with it doesn't mean it's a good idea. It's the difference between a cylinder lasting the life of the machine or failing in 5 or 6 years. It seem irresponsible to give folks the notion that making these adjustments is OK. It could mean incurring unecessary costs. I welcome any intelligent retort.
KennedyDiesel
Veteran Member
Increasing system pressure allows you to do more work without running "over relief"
OP
Nitro-Fish
Silver Member
Accelerated wear...........
Well, most of my loader use never reaches the "over relief" point you are talking about in one of your other posts, so I don't see where I will be hurting the FEL due to "over relief" use under most circumstances. I'm sure that JD under-rates the capacity of the FEL's to protect the un-aware user from themselves. I will be putting the same demand on the loader as would be placed with the 2400 PSI relief setting, I will just be able to have the use of "over relief" capacity when needed. Yes I understand that higher operating pressure may cause accelerated wear, but I really don't think it will be noticeable due to reduced demand on most occasions. I used my 790 (shimmed) for 5 years with no noticeable negative effects, if I get that with the 3320, I will be happy; I understand the trade-off's of additional performance. In 5-10 years if I have to replace the pump or even the entire FEL, I will still be money ahead as opposed to buying a new larger unit (which at the present time I couldn't use anyway). The reason I am trying to increase lift capacity is that I have no use for a larger machine (the 3320 is currently the perfect size for all of my needs), I just need a little more umph from the FEL at times. I am aware of the importance of ballast with or without incresed capacity, as I mentioned earlier, I think Deere keeps capacity down so the average Joe doesn' go out and try to lift more than he/she should without realizing the need for additional ballast.
Thanks for your input though!
jimgerken
Veteran Member
I might have missed the answer due to all the "fog" above, but can anyone say where the relief valve to adjust system pressure is located on the 3X20 CUT series tractors? A photo would be even more helpful. Thanks.
Cocre
Gold Member
It's on the SCV.
Attachments
I agree.... Let's see the engineers at Deere set the pressure at 2500 max. They didn't flip a coin to get there, that's what the system is engineered for!
Rob
OP
Nitro-Fish
Silver Member
Yep, that's the pressure they engineered it for, just like the way Dodge, FMC or GM engineers design their vehicles & we all know nobody tries to get any additional power out of them right? Maybe that's why the automotive aftermarket is such a thriving industry, or perhaps the performance wheel/tire industry, I'm sure some engineers hate to see the vehicles they design modified, but it happens everyday, and yes they are still operating just fine. How about the tire & wheel combinations you see on 4 x 4 trucks.......all of that additional unsprung weight (and various backspacing distances) can't be good, but they're going up & down the road everyday.
Equipment is made a certain way because it will fit the needs of a broader user network, it doesn't mean it can't be modified to fit an individuals want's or needs and still operate trouble free for years. Sometimes a bit of modification is the difference to making equipment more useable; how many older JD tractors (larger ones, not CUT's) are running around this country that have been turned up over spec to accomodate larger plows, discs etc? Or maybe that Road tractor (tractor/trailer) that has had the fuel turned up a bit just so it will pull that heavier load over the mountain a bit faster? Need I go on? That's right now we're talking, a farmer or a truck driver has a choice to either turn his machine up to make it more useable (even if it is outside of spec) or to leave it stock & be unhappy with the performance; I know plenty of both that have opted to go through with the mods anyway.
While modifications may not be for all, I for one still like to make my own choices and in some cases I will choose to modify if necessary. If the small amount of pressure increase was so critical to the engineers, why did they make it so easy to adjust? They could have just as easily made a pressure relief valve with less range or even one that was not adjustable at all.
OP
Nitro-Fish
Silver Member
jimgerken,
you remove the black cover that goes around the seat, 3 point adjustment knob, & kind of cleans up all of the lever openings, I believe there are a total of 10 or 11 fasteners (10mm), some in front of the seat down at the floor level, one on each side just in front of where the ROP's uprights are and 4 behind the seat (unless you have the 3rd SCV, then you may have to remove the bracket; 2 additional bolts) for the outlet support arm. The drop adjustment knob will pull right off with no problem, just pull forward with steady pressure (it's kind of like an old radio knob only much larger). Once you get the shroud loose, lift up on the rear & move it forward a little, you only need about 1" of forward movement. Look at the attachment that Cocre has in his post, the part that is referenced as (A) is the relief valve adjustment you are looking for, it is to the right side of the 3 point adjustment knob (left side of knob if your back is to the steering wheel). There is an adjusment bolt and a jamb nut, loosen the jamb nut & screw the adjusting bolt in until you meet the pressure you are looking for; make sure you have a good Hydraulic pressure guage to monitor the results of your adjustments & don't go too far at one time, little adjustment then check pressure, you will probably find that you will require less than 1 turn to get where you want to be. This is for an open station machine, I don't know what the method is for the cabbed models, but I'm sure it is about the same (sounds like it may even be easier). Remember, modify at your own risk, & never exceed the pressure ratings of the hoses, hydraulic cuts (in human skin) can be deadly. There may be an easier way to do it on an open station, maybe someone can chime in if they know one.
