4' Tiller

   / 4' Tiller #11  
But check that offside bearing first! In case it has been sitting there and rusted itself solid.

Also it would be simpler to drain the water off the bottom of the gearcase if it hasn't been agitiated, blended, by running the thing. I still don't have all the water out of mine after at least two fluid changes. I wonder if it recurs due to condensation.

For some reason the original design on these doesn't have any sort of clutch or shear anywhere. Hang it and it just stalls the tractor without hurting anything. It's all beefy gears in that side case, no belt or chain.

Depth - just set the 3-point stop for depth. There never were sled runners on these, and they are often run without the optional wheels.

Somebody modified that to move the 3-point pins farther forward. That distance might be just right to run the original driveshaft but add a slip clutch onto the tractor's pto.

This is correct advice! Boggen does not know anything about the yanmar tillers judging by his comment. You have no belt or chain and many do not have the wheels as pointed out many times.

Although a shear bolt or clutch would not be a bad idea it would probably just bounce off anything that was hard unless your trying to till up huge metal pipe or something totally random and obscure.
 
   / 4' Tiller #12  
Although a shear bolt or clutch would not be a bad idea it would probably just bounce off anything that was hard unless your trying to till up huge metal pipe or something totally random and obscure.[/QUOTE]

When Cal. told me yrs. ago of the bearing problem I wasn't happy with what I found to say the least!! I just bought it. You can see the New tines and the only reason for the shortened drive shaft is I was given the wrong one. And then come to find out they didn't have another so I had to shorten it until they finally sent another to me. I've mentioned it that I have it a few times and nobody ever seems to need it. That's been 9 yrs. now...
 
   / 4' Tiller
  • Thread Starter
#13  
On that bearing, does anyone know the part number to be looking for. When i do open it up and check on it, i would rather go ahead and change it out. It prolly hasn't been done in awhile or if at all. Sealed bearing would be better than a race/bearing. Going after a bit to pick it up. Thanx all. Jim
 
   / 4' Tiller #14  
Quoting a dealer who we haven't seen here for a while - Buck (EFC) - He said its a common bearing that any bearing house will simply match by eye. And buy the sealed version.

He also got a little dramatic and said throw that old bearing as far as you can before ever running the tiller. Back in the day, nearly every used Yanmar came over with the tiller that had been on it all its life. He saw some tillers damaged where that bearing rusted and chewed up its housing.

In American use the tiller won't have been run submerged in muddy water so the chance of damage is less, assuming the bearing was inspected/repacked after it arrived here. Apparently checking that bearing is just routine maintenance same as an automotive wheel bearing.


As for stalling - my experience is the tiller bounces up and climbs over the roots I hit in my orchard.
 
   / 4' Tiller #15  
On that bearing, does anyone know the part number to be looking for. When i do open it up and check on it, i would rather go ahead and change it out. It prolly hasn't been done in awhile or if at all. Sealed bearing would be better than a race/bearing. Going after a bit to pick it up. Thanx all. Jim

If your right about it being a 1200 the bearing will be a 6207 2RS, if a different size then most likely a different bearing. Have you measured it. My 1300 measures 51 inches which is what mm to inches translates. Naturally 1200 translates to 47-1/4"
 
   / 4' Tiller
  • Thread Starter
#16  
How is that measured, by end of shaft where the tines are, or from o/s-o/s of tiller its self ? And is that number you gave an AllBalls #, or Timken. Thanx. Jim
 
   / 4' Tiller #17  
How is that measured, by end of shaft where the tines are, or from o/s-o/s of tiller its self ? And is that number you gave an AllBalls #, or Timken. Thanx. Jim

Went out to measrue my 1300 and I can't tell you where they get that measurement. I can tell you my 1300 measures 52-5/8" across the sheet metal.
 
   / 4' Tiller #18  
I think (?) it's the width of the cut in the earth you can measure after you make the first pass.

And this assumes the original tines. OEM tines included special outward-facing tines at each end of the shaft. Those special tines are no longer available so the measured cut would be a little less with standard tines on the ends now.
 
   / 4' Tiller
  • Thread Starter
#20  
Went to look at it, and it's locked up. No way dad used it this yr. Plus dad says $300. I says SEE-YA. O well, took the wife out to eat while we where in tha city. Hehehe, now she can't say i never take out to dinner/lunch. I am sure i can find one for $3-400 that's in better shape. If so, will post. Thanks all. Jim
 

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