4000 TEN Series Questions

[carthage]

HI Guys- Just east of Cadillac here! Small world. I agree with loaded r-4 suggestion. After 30 hours I switched out turfs to them. Reasons were threefold. Most mowing was rough cut with brush hog. Punctured front tire while working in the woods clearing and stumping. Turfs are less punture resistent than r-4's. I had serious qualms about possibility of rear filled tire punture. May never have happened, but made me uneasy. Thirdly, after researching on this website, sounded like r-4's were more suited to the heavy load/weight usage of the front end loader work I was doing. That turned out to be true. After 600 hours of serious work with tractor, I am very happy to have switched. Also hydro is awsome, I would never go back to anything else. Plus side of the turfs, the 30 winter hours of use seemed to me, that traction in snow and ice was better than r-4's. Happy tractoring.

 

[EdwardB]

Thanks for the insights. I think I have settled on loaded R-4's - i think it will be the best compromise. I am still concerned about stability, though.

I have heard some references to setting tires wide. Does anyone know anything about this?. Is it a dealer installled option? What does it entail.

 

[rockyridgefarm]

R4a have two mounting positions. The dealer can set it up how you want it. You can reposition it later...

 

[rb4410]

hi,in response to you're questions,the R-4 tires are deffinitely choice.the best all around compromise,however i prefer wheel weights over liquid,as liquid will cause corrosion on the inside of the wheels.i too have nothing but hills and it's really a matter of using good judgement to keep you right side up.
the hydro trans. is very user friendlly and will make it simple to navigate on uneven ground.you will love it.
the only other option i would recommend would be the telescoping draft links.they make it easy for rear implement hook up and saves on you're back.good choice at a modest investment.
as for dealer pricing,they are all pretty close.get the best price on the tractor and use the attatchments as leverage to buy the unit.if they want to sell it,they will work with you and try to make you a happy customer.check on thier service history.you want to know they will be able to fix any issues you may have with the machine.service is half of the sale and is a most important factor to you as the buyer that should a problem occur ,they fix it right the first time.
good luck on you're purchase,the 4310 is a nice machine,sure to put a smile on you're face with it's ease of operation. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

[EdwardB]

In regards to corroding the rims - I thought the stuff that Deere uses no longer is corrosive. Beet juice?

Any info on this would be appreciated.

Can you use wheel weights and loaded tires, or is this overkill?

Thanks /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif

 

[timb]

Some Deere dealers appear to be now using 'beet juice' aka Rimguard but I haven't heard of that being an official across-the-board inventory item now.

I have not heard of any real down side to Rimguard relative to other fill choices and my dealer uses it so that's what I'll have. However - corrosion problem on rims using Calcium Chloride may be overblown. I know of many folks who have used calcium and eventually did have some rim 'rust' (especially around the valve stem hole for some reason) but it took *decades*. Our Ford NAA is running calcium for about 20 years now and no visible corrosion or problems yet.

It appears that all fill materials will kill whatever they leak on if you get a flat. How 'toxic' that area remains hasn't been discussed. The road crews around here spread calc. chloride all winter long - it can't be that bad long term. Of course they also use 'traction compound' i.e. the same flyash they will fine haulers for dropping a crumb of during the summer! /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif

Tim