4015R dpf dash light

[dancath]

I plan on owning it til the wheels fall of.Plus you cannot tell by looking at what I have done.

Dan

 

[skeeter102]

I called and spoke with the dealer. They said it sounds like the filter is plugged and want the tractor brought in. I plan on dropping it off next week.

I'll let y'all know what they find.

 

[meanstreak]

There is no "cleaning cycle". There is no regen, either manual or otherwise. The exhaust filter relies on exhaust heat to work. The incoming exhaust has to get over a certain temperature (I believe it's 1100 deg F) before the soot that has been trapped by the filter starts to burn or "cook" off. The only way to get the exhaust temp that hot, and keep it that hot is to load the engine while at 2000-2500 rpms. Just free-revving the engine at that speed may not get it hot enough. Needs to have a load on it at that engine speed.

The light on the dash is driven by a "data logger", which is a small box, about the size of a couple packs of cigarettes, with a small wiring harness plugged into it. On my tractor, it sits on the battery hold down bracket. The data logger's ONLY job, is to sit there and look at the incoming and outgoing exhaust pressure going into and out of the exhaust filter. That data logger is comparing the "back pressure" of those 2 sensors. If it sees that there is too much pressure on the incoming side of the filter, compared to what is exiting the filter, then it starts lighting the light on the dash, to tell the operator that the filter is getting plugged. The data logger has no other purpose, and has no engine or emissions controls of any kind.

OP to fix your current issue,

Option 1,

Run the BEEE-JEEESUS out of your tractor. I mean HARD. If you have a pto driven implement you can hook up, like a tiller or a brush hog, and go do some hard work with it. OR, put that tractor in high gear, take it out on a safe road, and run the snot out of it. Like for a couple miles at least, full wide open throttle in high gear to load that engine.

Option 2,

Replace your exhaust filter. Either yourself, or have your dealer do it. If it's still under warranty, and your filter is actually fully plugged, then it's a free replacement under warranty. Maybe they'll send it to you, and you can replace it yourself. Talk to your dealer.

Option 3,

Eliminate your exhaust filter entirely. Treat it like a plugged muffler and just take it off. Take the entire filter unit to a competent exhaust shop and have them make you a bolt in replacement muffler, using your plugged filter as a template. When you install the replacement, just disconnect and remove the data logger and wires. The engine will have no idea that the filter is no longer there.

If mine becomes an issue on my tractor, I'm planning on going with Option 3.

Sounds like option three is the way to go once the warranty runs out, maybe there will be something on you tube on that.

 

[Slowpoke Slim]

There are a couple of threads (at least one) on here from guys that have done it, and the results have been as predicted. The tractor runs like a non-filtered diesel tractor should run.

I'm sure I'll end up doing it to mine. The only question really is "when".

 

[Hombre]

The remarks about the warranty covering the "soot cooker" is not an option. Not covered. The dealer I purchased my Branson from did say that they (Branson) would "exchange" them to the tune of around 300 dollars. That didn't sound to bad to me when he told me that these were "supposed" to be good up to around 2000 hrs. well for me that would be about 10 years of running so didn't figure that to be an issue. HOWEVER, mine started going T's up at around 60-70hrs because I don't run my tractor around at 2500 rpms all the time, in fact rarely, and no idling of any length of time is tolerated, so when you change implements, get off the tractor to do (something) for a couple minutes, (as I tend to do) you'd have to shut it down and restart. For me that could be 20 times a day. Not acceptable. Whereas I do like this system better than using DEF with all the electronics that go with it, it became a PITA. My dealer told me to take it apart, drill some 1/2 inch holes through the insides (he did this to his personal tractor) and call it good. He also told me we never had that conversation. I took it a step further and after drilling the holes in the "element" I took a long cold chisel and knocked the complete insides out, reassembled the "can" put it back on and hooked the electrical wire and plug back on, problem solved. Been working just fine since, light comes on flashing when I start it up, get a little smoke, then the light goes out and I can operate the tractor like a tractor should be operated. Most of my running time (unless heavy load or PTO is done at 1500 to 2000 rpms.) Burns alot less fuel also. But you use your best judgement as to what you want to do.

 

[ptsg]

Removing the DPF filter will probably make the engine run better and smoother since it's not restricted with all that DPF crap.

To be honest, I really don't understand the point of the DPF systems. It's suppose to deal with the emissions, but all it does it making us running the engines with high RPMs, burning a lot more fuel and consequently produce more emissions. It just doesn't make sense at all.. Specially on tractors this size that are mostly used by people do light work with it and don't really need high RPMs.

 

[skeeter102]

I haven't taken it to the dealer yet, sorting out trailer issues. But, I did run it down the road in high gear and then let it run at 2500 rpm for 20 minutes. Dpf light went out, but came back on when I got back on it.

The next day I ran it down the road again and then let it run for 20 minutes. Light went out and hasn't come back on. I'm going to run it one more time and see what happens. Maybe it finally cleared the dpf out? IDK, we'll see. All this emissions crap sucks.

 

[ericm979]

The tractor will run with the data logger unplugged. Mine was accidentally delivered that way. It didn't light the DPF light on the dash. If you've drilled out or removed the DPF internals and find the light annoying that might be a way to get rid of it. It it louder with the DPF internals removed?

I idle mine while changing implements so I can operate the top and tilt cylinders (but I do turn it off when hooking up the PTO for safety). I let it idle at other times though I try to not do it for long. So far at 100 hours there's no problem. It does get run pretty hard when using the chipper as I chip everything that will fit. I generally operate it at 2000 rpm if I'm not using the PTO, 2400 when I am.

 

[Oldoak]

Removing the DPF filter will probably make the engine run better and smoother since it's not restricted with all that DPF crap.

To be honest, I really don't understand the point of the DPF systems. It's suppose to deal with the emissions, but all it does it making us running the engines with high RPMs, burning a lot more fuel and consequently produce more emissions. It just doesn't make sense at all.. Specially on tractors this size that are mostly used by people do light work with it and don't really need high RPMs.

I with you on that thought! And add to it the extra emissions while producing and transporting the extra fuel we are forced to burn due to the DPF systems.

 

[Slowpoke Slim]

Unfortunately, the EPA "decided" we had to have this crap to save the whales/spotted owls/some kind of blind frogs/and who knows what else.

Hombre,

I'm surprised your dealer said your cooker wasn't covered under warranty. Was it a used tractor when you bought it? It's my understanding that the cooker is covered under warranty when new, and my dealer has said it was. We discussed my "options" on mine when my light came on. From learning the how and what the cooker does and the level of emissions on my model, I just decided that for me, if it becomes a problem, I'm going to take it off completely.

I do like to have the ability to run my tractor at lower speeds to burn less fuel when I can, and also do let it idle when I'm doing certain work off of the tractor. I don't fault the tractor or the engine, but lay the blame on the Gooberment and the EPA for mandating this garbage. I'm just thankful that at least in our Bransons, it's a bolt on piece that can easily be removed with no other side effects to the running of the engine. At least we don't have to try to figure out how to get into the computer programming or buy some sketchy "delete kit" off the internet.