4052R is DEAD

   / 4052R is DEAD #1  

LouieJunior

Platinum Member
Joined
Mar 17, 2012
Messages
500
Location
Moline, Illinois
Tractor
JD4052R Open Station
Sunday morning I started my JD 4052R. I planned on doing some mowing. I manuevered it to remove bucket and turned off engine. After doing so, it failed to start. It has never failed before. All I got was some clicking noises. All the dash lights illuminated but not nothing turned over. I tried jumping and it didn't even try to turn over - more clicking. I removed the battery and it tests okay. My PTO is off!

A friend suggested checking the engine oil level - that is okay. Same with transmission fluid. I am stuck! Is there anything I can do before summoning the dealer?
 
   / 4052R is DEAD #3  
Should check fuses to.
 
   / 4052R is DEAD #4  
^^^ x2
If you can crank with no start, that might be the time to call the dealer depending on your mechanical skills. Actually with today's computerized tractors it's way more than just "mechanical skills" at this point. 😒
 
   / 4052R is DEAD #5  
How did you test the battery? Did you load test it? There seemed to be a run of JD batteries that suffer from sudden death. If you just checked the voltage and didn’t load test that could be the problem. Also they won’t always allow a jump. If you have a known good battery that might be a good test to swap it in.
 
   / 4052R is DEAD #8  
I suspect battery dead as well. Had the same thing three days ago with my 4300. New battery, (clean cable connections didn't work to solve the issue) and good to go.
 
   / 4052R is DEAD #9  
Bad battery is my bet.
Bad battery and / corroded connections. Time to clean and make bright ALL the connections including the battery posts and clamps. Corrosion equals high resistance equals no start. The dash lights may be on but when high starting amperage is require, the high resistance corroded connections won't allow that amperage to pass.
 
   / 4052R is DEAD #10  
A new starting battery is relatively cheap (well not as cheap as they were even 5 years ago), thanks to inflation, but still not that much jack, even today.

I renew both my starting batteries every 5 years, good or not and when I replace them, all the connections get brightened and secured and then get a coat of dielectric grease applied. Batteries have to be the most neglected items on a tractor and your car or truck as well.. Least until they leave you in a lurch that is. Contrary to popular opinion, it's not the cold that kills a battery other than cold requires more starting amperage, it's the HEAT that kills batteries.
 
   / 4052R is DEAD
  • Thread Starter
#11  
Thank you all! I hope you are correct about the battery! Trying a new battery is a price I am glad to pay.

One additional clue - The work lights won't turn on now. Prior to this, I could turn them on without putting the key in the ignition.
 
   / 4052R is DEAD #13  
Same thing happened to my 4320, it would click but nothing more. Gave the started a couple of good taps with a hammer and she would fire up. Replaced the starter and problem went away.

Dave
 
   / 4052R is DEAD #14  
Same thing happened to my 4320, it would click but nothing more. Gave the started a couple of good taps with a hammer and she would fire up. Replaced the starter and problem went away.

Dave

Well, the fact that his work lights not turning on eliminates the starter as being the problem. (y)
 
   / 4052R is DEAD #15  
Well, the fact that his work lights not turning on eliminates the starter as being the problem. (y)
Must have missed that part. Thats what I get for reading with only one eye open and first cup of coffee. LOL
 
   / 4052R is DEAD #17  
Switch to Blackout Coffee, that stuff is loaded with caffeine and it tastes like real coffee as well.
I have some in the pods. I don't think the pods taste that good

I have had death wish coffee in both the pods and grounds. The grounds have more flavor.
 
   / 4052R is DEAD #20  
Glad to hear your up again. Very typical failure for these tractors. Happened to me as well on 2 different 40XXR machines. Turn the key then "click-click, pause, click-click, pause" every time. Most of the time you'll see it throw the code "ECU A 1485.02" when this happens. Then you panic when you look it up because it says GO TO DEALER NOW AND BRING LOTS OF MONEY!!! The code indicates faulty, intermittent, or incorrect data from main relay. Most of the time, the culprit is simply a bad battery. The times it happened to me was when the original factory battery failed. My local NAPA dealer had the "fix" in stock both times. Thanks for sharing your results with us. Knowledge is power!
 

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