Mowing 4110 mowing RPM / rear mower lift brackets

[joes_427_vette]

I was mowing at 1500 rpm with the 60" mmm and noted it wasn't exactly a clean cut after mowing about 3 acres ( have about 5 ). Not to keen on changing the blades in the middle of the lawn cutting. I read in the manual it should be run at full speed ( about 2700 ) . I tried this for one cutting and felt it was too much noise and fuel. What RPM does everyone else use ? My blades are very sharp and the only obstructions are the tough weeds near the woods.
Also....... the rear brackets that lift the mower with the 3 point arms attaching the adjustible turnbuckles, mine are about 1/2" from the rear tires. They haven't hit the rubber but it seems too close. I didn't see a way to move them in closer to the hitch besides cutting the bracket and shimming it tight? I thought there would be room to remove the pin and adjust the turnbuckle without taking the wheel off.

 

[kennyd]

Joe,
You need to run the mower at the rated PTO speed indicated on your tachometer (2650 RPM). That will give 540 RPM at the rear and 2100 RPM at the mid, that's what the mower is designed to run at. For a clean, efficient cut you need tip speed at the blades!

As for the brackets, I just ran to the garage and looked, mine are about 4" from the tires so not sure what up with yours? Can you post a picture?

 

[RalphVa]

Running at 1500 rpm is WAAAY too slow. The tractor doesn't have much power to recover at that speed much less cut the grass. On my 4010, I run my brush hog at the PTO speed, about 2700 rpm. That's also where I run my chipper/shredder at. Fifteen hundred rpm is just for moving the tractor around and going downhill. For going uphill, it needs at least 1700-2200 rpm to not strain.

You'll ruin your main bearings running a tractor at such low speed under load.

Buy yourself some ear muffs. They take away the noise. I HAVE to because I've got prostheses in both ears. They jangle like crazy under noise. Absolutely cannot run a chain saw without my ear muffs.

Ralph

 

[joes_427_vette]

Kenny; I took a couple pictures but now the program to reduce them to a manageable size is lost someplace in this %#*@ computer. I'm speaking about the L shaped brackets that rest on the 3 point lift arms. They connect to the mower lift arms via a turnbuckle to adjust the height from side to side. ( page 30 in the operators manual photo M86179 ) The bottom of their bracket looks about 4" from the tire ( in the manual ) but mine is within 1/2". Maybe I have the wrong bracket or something. My mower came off the dealers machine and this is the way he had it set up. I took out the small bushing replacing it with the casting. I may have to drive down to the dealer and see if maybe I have a bracket from another model tractor. It works but it sure bothers me as far as the clearance.

I had over 2000 hours on the 455 ( basically same engine ) mowing at 1500 and never had a problem. I do wear muffs but I just didn't like to hear the low rpm diesel motor turn that high. I'm going to run it at 2650 and just monitor things to see if anything vibrates apart.

 

[JasonL]

I don't know if I can be of any help, because I haven't hooked up my mower in a couple of years. But I do have those brackets on the tractor and remove and reinstall them every time I put the backhoe on. Is it possible they have been switched side to side? I know mine have gotten that way occasionally (since I don't use them it doesn't matter) Also I have some bushings that hold them (might be from BH??) Could the bracket be installed on the wrong side? If this doesn't make sense just ignore it!! Jason

 

[kennyd]

Joe, mine looks like the picture. The bushing that holds the 3PH stabilizer chain is outboard, and the L bracket is bent towards the tire. Also the U shaped piece on top with the hole in it (for the deck lock-up kit) is at the rear of the L shaped bracket. Not sure what's going on with yours

The tractor will not fall apart running at the rated PTO speed, that's what it's designed to do all day long

 

[kennyd]

Joe, I had the tractor out today to mow, so I took two picture for you.

 

[joes_427_vette]

What is a deck lock up kit ? Does it have to do with the 2 holes on the top of the lift bracket ?

My lift brackets are definately different than yours. Mine are offset by 4 " toward the wheel. I must have a bracket from a different application. I have to find the program to reduce the picture size and post mine.
Thanks for the pictures.

 

[kennyd]

The lock-up kit is supposed to be used to hold the deck all the way up so it does not lower if you want to use the 3PH for something else. Basically you'd raise the deck all the way up put the pins in the holes. I use mine to hold the deck at a fixed mowing height so I never have to worry about the deck going to low and scalping.
If I used the 3PH then I take the deck off anyway.
You could make your own kit very easy with a chain and a small turnbuckle-the kit I have sold for about $100 from JD

I use the Microsoft re-sizer, you can download it HERE Once installed all you do is left-click on the picture and select re-size, then choose how big you want it, SUPER EASY! I use the '"large" option and it works great to post pictures.

 

[joes_427_vette]

Thanks for the program Kenny but I have Vista and it will not work with this set up. I will have to dig deeper into the computer. I'm sure it is here someplace.

My old computer had alot of programs that now are not compatable. I sent it off... hopefully it can be revived. Progress ( in computers anyway ) sometimes doesn't work out the best. Usually it is the cost and operating changes.

My JD service manual doesn'r describe the deck lock up feature. I will have to study mine to see where it is hooked to on the top. My brackets ( on the lift arms )for lifting the mower are 1/2" steel. I was wondering why they were built so heavy. I may have received the mount package from the next size model.

Thanks for all the help. It does trim better at 2650. Old guys should read the operators manual once in a while.