4110 problem, need help.

[MLinOleMiss]

Seems that it wasn't a loose battery cable, Saturday, I climbed onboard and it was dead again so I did as was suggested and removed the ground from the frame and wire-brushed the frame down to the metal as well as the connection on the strap and still got nothing. I then took the wire brush to the clamp and negative post on the battery and the clamp broke in two and fell off. There was no corrosion or signs of abuse or fatigue. Went and got a new ground cable and installed it and still, nothing. Then went and bought a new battery and installed it and it fired right up. Took a lunch break and ran some errands and came back to do some loader work and it wouldn't crank. Turn the switch to the on position and nothing, return it to the off position and you get a grinding/growling sound for 5-10 seconds and the tach jumps to about 2500rpm and slowly comes back down. Spoke to my dealer this morning and he says he will make it right, but how much more of this should I have to put up with?

 

[Clyde]

Charlie - Someone a heck of a lot smarter than myself figured out the equation and that settles that argument - Thanks for explaining it. If the starter was not getting the full... let's say 200 amps to turn the starter motor, wouldn't it cause damage to the armature of the starter motor? I would think the brushes in contact with the armature could cause a hot spot on that one pole or field to melt the solder if it wasn't spinning. I'm not an expert or disputing your explanation. I know you're not supposed to crank an engine for more than 10 seconds because of the possibility of burning up the motor due to overheating. Could this happen with a faulty ground too? I have to believe that it isn't doing the starter any good.

Clyde