4115 - dead as Elvis

   / 4115 - dead as Elvis #11  
If you have Bio diesel you could have problems at 20 degrees. We had 2 trucks that did not start the other morning at 26 degrees until we changed filters and treated the fuel. I hate bio in the winter but I am not the boss.
 
   / 4115 - dead as Elvis #12  
Ever since I took an uncle up on a dare to hit that wire while I was urinating as a child, I have been not too competent around electricty... I did have a garden tractor that died like that once though, and it turned out to be one of the safety interlock switches........ just food for thought from a guy with good aim.
 
   / 4115 - dead as Elvis #13  
Are there any mechanically inclined members, or relatives/friends that might help you diagonose it? Nothing more frustrating then tearing something apart just to find it wasn't bad, and now it won't go back together....
David from jax
 
   / 4115 - dead as Elvis #14  
Couple of things, first off - Elvis is not dead, he just rides a Kubota

As for the clicking noise, try turning on your headlights on the tractor and then crank it over. If the lights start out dim or go dim when you try to crank it, the battery or the corroded cables would immediately be suspect. If nothing happens with the lights, I would start looking at the starter solenoid.

As for it quiting when you were in the middle of using it, to me that sounds like one of the safety kill switches engaged (apparently by mistake). Somebody help me here with Green machines, does this model have a seat kill switch? If yes, I would try shorting out the leads on the seat switch to see if that might be it.

If you have a volt meter and you put it on the starter or battery and they read OK and don't drop at all when you try to crank it, I would be willing to bet that it is a kill switch issue. There are machines with the same type of device on things like the PTO engagement handle where they will not start or turn over if the machine thinks it is has the PTO engaged when you try to start it.
 
   / 4115 - dead as Elvis #15  
I am not sure about this, but I don't think the solenoid or another component would click when trying to start if one of the safety interlocks was faulty or activated.

Steve
 
   / 4115 - dead as Elvis #16  
Sfish- I agree with your concept ... It seems we need more info from McZook because something is not adding up here.
 
   / 4115 - dead as Elvis
  • Thread Starter
#17  
Thanks for all of the suggestions, TBN members.

I have replaced the battery terminal connector and made sure the battery was charged up. The battery was ok to start with.

Everyone I talk to locally seems to point towards and electrical problem as well.

It does not try to turn over, ruling out fuel jelly.
the lights all come on, and do not seem to dim when I turn the key trying to start it.

One odd thing, none of the guages light up or move at all when I turn the key to on, or try to start...

I do not know where the solenoid is, what it looks like or how to check it.

I have tried to ensure that all of the most basic things are covered. The tractor is not in gear. The PTO is not engaged, and I plunk my 220 lbs right in the seat when trying to start it.

Any other suggestions?
 
   / 4115 - dead as Elvis #18  
No dash lights sounds like a fuse or multiple fuse problems. Check all fuses. They may not all be in one place. If you find one bad one, still keep looking for others.
 
   / 4115 - dead as Elvis
  • Thread Starter
#19  
I checked the 4 blade fuses - 2 & 10, 1 & 15, 1 & 20. All looked ok.

I replaced the 10s and the 20 anyway. nothing.
 
   / 4115 - dead as Elvis #20  
I would bet based on what I've read that your battery may have 'opened' and failed. This type of failure would show some indications of voltage (clicking solenoid, dim lights on dashboard) but very little current will pass through the battery. If you put your battery charger on it, it will show near 0 amps (or what looks like a fully charged battery). I have seen this before.

If you want to test the fuel solenoid, it should be by the injector pump and has 2 wires coming out of it. Disconnect from the harness and put an digital ohm meter on the the wires connected to the solenoid. You should see a reading of between 20 and 50 ohms (a bit of a guess here). If you see 10 or less it's probably shorted and if it's really high you have a opened circuit.

I put my bets on the battery.
 

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