4120...some questions

[jimg]

tlbtech...thanx for that answer!

 

[texastomtom]

I think others have covered your questions except for loader on/off.

I have a 4720 so I'll try to fill you in on this.

IT IS WONDERFULLY SIMPLE

Unlike some other jd models you dont even have jacks or stands etc.

1. position the loader on the ground such that the pressure is relieved on the uprights. You can see the springs 'unload'

2. pull a small spring strap toward the center of tractor to unlock for step 3. ( one on each side )

3. push forward on the actual 'holding' mechanish. A sort of cam over system that holds the loader in place - or when released lets it unhook from the tractor. ( one on each side )

4. Work the hydraulics such that the loader dismounts itself from the tractor. Part of the actual loader when attached is locked to the tractor near the weight brackets. When you are detaching this portion of the loader moves itself down and becomes the stand while it is off the tractor. The hydraulics move this down and provide the leverage on this 'stand' to raise the loader from the tractor.

5. Make sure you have positioned the unattached loader such that the wheels etc will clear when you back away from it. Disconnect the hydro hoses..

6. Back away.

It is very very easy and really can be done in about 3 mintues.

Reattaching is just the opposite, You just pull in and reattach hoses.... Use hydro to lower the loader back onto the tractors brackets... ( usually have to move forward or back a tad to get them in the right place once you are close ). Still with the hydraulics you keep going till it is in place - and make certain that the mounts engage normally on the front end weight bracket area.... Put the cam locks back into the lock position... the spring locks for the cam locks will return to their safety/hold position on their own.


After a time or two you learn to center tractor carfullly to begin with,,, and just how to tweak the hydraulics to put it just so so..

I was kinda afraid to do it first time so had my dealer do it.... He had never done it before either - but at least if he broke something he'd have to fix it....... It only took mintues to get it.....

tom

One note, If your not doing it on a HARD surface you will need some boards to sit it on. The bucket does not need them but the surface area of the built in stand is small and will sink easily into soft ground. Also this stand portion moves a couple feet - sliding on the ground so you will need two boards parallel to / and between the tires as it goes through the motion of raising/lowering the loader from/onto the tractor....

Watch your fingers !!! there are definitely some places that would sever any appendage.

I hope that makes sense....
If you have questions feel free to im me, i have a phone to if needed.... I might not hear it if I'm on the tractor /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

[jimg]

Thanx, yes it does make sense. It was the unlocking at the front of the tractor he couldnt figure out. Im going to make sure we go thru this exercise on Sat too. Would you happen to have the PR version of the transmission? I very interested to hear review on this. What owners think about it vs a hydro.

 

[texastomtom]

all of the 4720's have the ehydro.....
i'm not sure what you mean by pr version.... If you mean ps (power shift) - I dont have that so no comment....

I think you get it, there is no lock at the front.... Everything can be reached from the drivers seat except unhooking the hoses...... and placing the boards if needed on the ground.


its really cool in my opinion...

tom

 

[jimg]

Sorry...I meant to write PS (power shuttle). Since Im not looking at the top of the line I have the choice of transmission.

Im planning to call the dealer today and make sure someone will be available Sat for the test ride who knows the tractor well. Im really looking forward to it.

Last night I was doing the math and was surprised to find the prices Ive gotten so far are very close (between Deere and NH). This wasnt the case last time I bought a tractor. Also the 4120 is the first JD I really liked and thought was well designed. So, its really down to the dealer now....that is service and sales.

 

[jimg]

I had some unexpected free time this afternoon (and it wasnt raining) and moved up my test run to today. I did this at the dealer's main branch and the difference was like night and day. Today's saleman knew all the CUTs really well. He demo'ed removing and reattaching the loader (very simple) and we talked at length about the diffs between this and other models. This is the best experience Ive ever had at a Deere dealer. After we were done talking he handed me the keys and told me to have fun and we'd talk whenever I was ready. The lot and tractor were mine to use until they closed or I was tired. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif I did my best to have fun too. I very much like the PS transmission and the tractor in general. For a tractor that size it turned in a surprisingly tight radius as it didnt look that 'limber'. Shifting was very smooth (between gears/ranges) and forward and reverse was mostly gradual. It can still put the torque to the wheels and dig in a bit in loose ground. Using the clutch, of course, mitigates this. I think its far better built/designed (in most respects) than other large chassis CUTs. Last time I bought a tractor the choice was easy b/c the only the NH dealer was willing to work w/ me. This time around is completely different.

I was a bit disappointed that telescoping draft arms werent std equipment. The dealer said he'd order them for me but his opinion was that they were poorly designed and not worth the money. He pointed out the arms on a 5000 series tractor and then contrasted that w/ what I could get for the 4120. So, Im not sure what Ill do in that regard but w/ heaiver implements having telescoping arms would be handy. Im sure I could live w/o them but having them would be much better. Does anyone have telescoping arms? What do you think? The dealer thought they didnt extend nearly enough. Once out he felt they didnt 'flop around enough'. Really this guy was a hoot...very plain spoken and direct. When he thought JD screwed up or did well he would speak it right out.

Whats the drill for changing a clutch in this tractor? Does anyone know? Do wet clutches wear less under normal use than the dry type? That is do they wear differently b/c of what they are not how theyre used assuming normal use?

BTW I thought instrument lay out was really good. Everything was right where youd want it. It did seem a bit crowded trying to get to things under the hood though...just the ait filter.

jimg

 

[timb]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( This is the best experience Ive ever had at a Deere dealer )</font>

Now that's what we're talking about!

Congrats on finding a real dealer and salesman. I did the same thing when I was shopping - the salesman handed me a set of keys and told me to have at it. Since the same keys fit all JD's - I was able to try back to back hydro and PS, mid-sized and large and really answer a lot of questions for myself.

I've got the extendable draft arms on my 4710. I think they 1) should be standard, JD missed one on that with the intro of the Twenties, 2) are definitely worth it, especially if you aren't going with a quick-hitch set up. They make it MUCH easier to attach heavy implements, especially on uneven ground. I've never used any other tractor that had extendable links so I can't say if other brands versions are significantly different in use. But I'd say they are very useful.

A 5000 series tractor is simply much beefier everywhere than a 4000-Twenty. If you can swing the 5000 - both in ca$h and literally in manuvering around your place - it is one heck of a tractor. I went to the big 4000 because I felt a 5000 would be too heavy for many duties - especially close in to the buildings (I'm not lawn mowing). Well.... the only 'buyer's remorse' I have so far is that in the long run my 4710 may prove to be too heavy and damaging when the grounds soft anyway. Years from now I may look back and decide I should have gone ahead and just gotten the 5000 back when. It's tough to make one tractor fit all possible chores, everything is a compromise.

 

[jimg]

Tim,
Could you give some data on those draft arms pls...like how far do they extend and how much movement do you experience once theyre out. In other words how well do they articulate in the extended position to reach/move to pins at odd angles/alignments so they can be attached. Actually, it was a 6000 series that he used as the draft arm example. Yes, they were certainly heavier but they also extended 6 or more inches and 'flopped' all around once out making it fairly easy to hook up. BTW did you pay for the arms or did the dealer provide them as part of the bargain? He quoted $250 for the arms on the 4120...which I thought was sort of pricey.

For my use a 20 series is plenty of tractor. Im only looking at 5-10 ac and this machine will easily handle that. I mentioned the tight steering radius b/c I didnt want a machine that wouldnt handle well in tighter spaces....and anything bigger I believe wouldnt have done the job well. When compared to the next model down in the 10 series the 4120 looks and feels big. About the hardest work Im going to put it to is pasture renovation. Im planning NOT to mow w/ the loader on b/c while bearable it has its distinct drawbacks. This time around I wanted a loader that was truely quick on/off.

BTW...just for info sake the dealer I visited was Barnett Equip in Mount Vernon, WA.

 

[timb]

I forget the exact price for the draft arms, but around $250 as a dealer-installed option sounds to be in the ballpark. One trick to that - I've heard from other people that they've bought them afterwards for the same price quoted for the up-front option cost. But in that case - by just buying them as 'parts' now you've got both sets in case you ever need them, I've only got the extendable ones. Worth investigating the pricing with your dealer.

My tractor's 50 miles away from me at the moment, so off the top of my head, I would say the links extend about 2 inches, and have a vertical movement of about +/- an inch.

In other words - they don't move drastically - but they usually have enough flexibility to be able to hook up, even if you've only backed up 'close' to correct. I usually try to make sure the draft arm eyes far edge are just about even with the front edge of the implement pins, front-to-rear, and slightly lower. At that point, the arm ends and the hitch itself has plenty of movement in all 3 axis to hook up without getting out the old armstrong bar to lever the implement that last 1/2 or 1 inch.

 

[rockyridgefarm]

A big point to me while reading this is it sounds like the dealer is comparing a Cat 2 hitch to a Cat 1 system. But I think the Cat 1 version is adequate on the Cat 1 tractor, but bould be too little adjustment for a larger, and possibly cab equipped tractor.

Good discussion! I agree that it would be nice to have included the telescopic links, I figure they don't because of iMatch, but the tlescopic are better for my needs, too.