Mowing 413 rotary mower on back of a 2305, conclusion

C-Range · Apr 4, 2009

Well, I took the clutch completely apart today. I wire brushed the clutch disks and plates. The mower has been unused and in (indoor) storage for a long time so the clutch plates were somewhat pitted and sticking. I ran the mower with the spring pressure almost completely out for a while and it still continued to mow, unbelievably. I actually liked using it better with the clutch pressure backed off because it doesn't surge the tractor upon PTO engagement like it does wiith the clutch adjusted to spec but I'll see if it loosens up with ongoing use.

I suppose that is a question I might pose. Should the clutch be slipping upon initial PTO engagement or is it only there for object strikes? I'd really like to loosen it up and let it slip a bit at first. It really makes a **** of a noise and a rumble. I'm just afraid that if it isn't meant to be used that way I'll wear the clutch out prematurely.

Anyway, I got it all up to snuff and gave it a try. Check it out. It sure is a challenge keeping the height happy on uneven terrain. It would seem a set of wheels at the front of the mower would be helpful for this problem.

YouTube - John Deere 413 Rotary Mower on the 2305

RalphVa · Apr 4, 2009

Looks like new.

I've only had clutches on my Gravely. They never had a noticeable slip. I'd adjust it the way it's supposed to be adjusted and start it up at around 1500 rpm.

Guess that's a 5' unit? Appears to be about 6" wider than the tractor. My LX4 is almost exactly the width of my 4010.

Ralph

kennyd · Apr 4, 2009

Looks good! Did the vibration get any better?

For your safety, please wear some hearing and eye protection!

C-Range · Apr 5, 2009

I'd adjust it the way it's supposed to be adjusted and start it up at around 1500 rpm. Guess that's a 5' unit? Appears to be about 6" wider than the tractor. My LX4 is almost exactly the width of my 4010. Ralph

Yes, I usually use 1500 as my engagement speed for attachments. 1500 seemed a little jarring on the tractor. I found 2000 to be too aggressive but 1700 to be just about right. Still, I'm a little concerned. Along with the clutch, there is also a shear bolt between the clutch and the gearbox (see images for clarification). I took it out yesterday (to get the clutch out) and it was a little distorted. It would seem to me that the clutch should be slipping a little to protect that bolt. That sure is a lot of mass working against both that shear bolt and the PTO system on the tractor. I'd rather replace a clutch disk than anything else.

Well, I didn't break out the measuring tape, but the specs say that machine is a 4' cut. I suppose the extra width is just due to the blade gap. I did notice that it was wider than the machine too but I was preoccupied.

Looks good! Did the vibration get any better? For your safety, please wear some hearing and eye protection!

Ya, the vibration wasn't noticeable while cutting. Maybe I just forgot about it but I did notice the vibration when the cutter was raised so I think it might just be a PTO shaft angle/length issue. I'm no longer concerned. Thanks for asking.

And lastly, yes, I thought of protection when I was putting the video up. When I was testing it out, I did wear protection but got a little anxious to see it cut and forgot my glasses and plugs, plus my 'photographer' was cold. It was just meant to be a functionality check run. No excuse.

Engine_Tech · Apr 5, 2009

The cutter's clutch shouldn't slip during PTO engagement. Certainly not enough that you can tell at least. I could see it maybe slipping a few degrees (maybe 1/4" if you marked the plates) but that would be it. The modulation of the tractor's PTO system is enough to protect the system from damage upon engagement.

Slip clutch drivelines are designed for people that cut rough areas (read: stumps) where shearbolts would repeatedly fail. On a 413 a shearbolt driveline is standard, with a clutch driveline being an option. Replacing bolts is a real pain in these conditions, so the clutch serves basically as a "auto resetting" shearbolt. That shearbolt that you have in the system is basically a second level of protection.

Like you are doing, it's a good idea to slip the clutch at lease once per year and make sure any shearbolt areas have not rusted solid (i.e. remove shearbolt and let it spin a couple revolutions).

George2615 · Apr 5, 2009

One thing no one mentioned or asked is are the blades on your mower fixed or do they swing freely underneath using centrifugal force to swing them out.

On my rotary mower the blades swing freely and require centrifugal force to swing them out fully. I always engage my mower at slow speed using the foot clutch to ease the blades in motion and until they get up to speed the mower will shake and vibrate. Check your blades to see they move freely on the pivot point. If they don't move easily and swing out fully the rotating mass under the deck will be out of balance until they do.

C-Range · Apr 5, 2009

George, I just put new blades on the mower when I got it. Somebody that owned it before me apparently tried to sharpen the blades from the bottom. Plus they were quite worn anyway at the tips, really rounded. For $60, I'll take a new pair instead of grinding the old one's for hours to save them - only to have a resulting balance problem.

Anyway, the blades rotate quite freely with a little hang up on the stumpjumper which is a little bent downward. The new blades just need to wear in a bit but they rotate fine. When I put the new one's in, I lubed them up with some white lithium grease though I know it won't last long.

Engine_tech, thanks for the response on clutch slippage. Good to have clarification though I was hoping to hear it should be "sliperier". At least I can be confident that the clutch will give before the shear bolt (fingers crossed).

Still, since the mower sat for a while and the clutch got a bit pitted, I'm thinking of loosening the springs a bit and letting them wear in again. Besides, I just love the smell of burning clutches! (just kidding)

mditullio · Aug 7, 2011

Looking for some assistance on the 413 JD cutter. I broke the shear pin back towards the gear box on top of cutter but can't seem to find right replacement pin? Tried to put 2.5" bolt in as replacement and it snapped-off almost immediately which makes me wonder if I also have a clutch issue. As soon as I engaged the PTO it banged pretty loudly and seemed anything but smooth. Thoughts?
Thanks
Mike in Maine

C-Range · Aug 7, 2011

Hi Mike,

Your JD dealer should have or be able to get the proper part.

You might also search the internet for an owner's manual for the 413. They're available.

Otherwise, I'd back the clutch nuts off by some known amount, i.e., 1/4 turn, 1/2 turn, etc until you get some slippage. Slip it a few times to loosen it up, then tighten it back to where it was.