4200 rear axle seal

[dfkrug]

I did not need a press for the axle.

 

[beenthere]

I'd suggest to plan on that need for a press, or a way to support the final drive housing and beat out the axle.

Is it right side or left side? If you have the service manual (I think it is well worth the money ), then the procedure is outlined pretty well.

We will look forward to hearing about the process, as having more info and experiences in the TBN archives is valuable for others in the future.

I did read that in the link, that the axle came right out. So that looks good for you.

 

[dave255]

So I completed this job yesterday, replacing the right rear axle seal. The axle slid out very easily by hand, so no press was needed. Not sure why the service manual says a press is required.

The job was pretty easy for an intermediate mechanic or higher. I would not recommend the beginner/novice mechanic attempt this repair.

GENERAL OVERVIEW OF STEPS:
1. Jack up tractor, remove wheel, drain fluid(7 gallons!)
2. Remove ROPS, 3 point hitch, fender to gain access to housing
3. Remove brake return spring. Remove roll pins and linkages on brake lever and differential lock lever. Remove these two levers from housing.
4. Remove 8 cap screws(two of the eight screws are different sizes, remember where they go for reassembly!)
5. Gently pry housing away, secure with transmission jack or something similar since the unit is heavy. I used a floor jack with some blocks of wood and some ratcheting tie-down straps to secure housing before fully removing from tractor.

6. To remove axle, remove snap ring and gear and then slide the axle out.
7. Remove seal retainer plate to access the seal. Remove old seal and insert new one.

8. Installation is the reverse of removal. Just be sure pinion shaft bottoms out in brake plates when reassembling. Also clean mating surfaces and use some good RTV. Might want to replace differential lock seal and brake shaft O-ring while you're in there, since they are cheap parts.

 

[dfkrug]

3. Remove brake return spring. Remove roll pins and linkages on brake lever and differential lock lever. Remove these two levers from housing.

Glad your brake lever was easy to remove. They can be quite difficult, esp if your tractor has been around livestock.

In the reassembly, lining up the brake shaft and plates just right can be a little frustrating, and not for the impatient.

 

[ecorganicfarms]

About seven gals is correct. You will be able to see if anything is in
the bottom of your gearbox (PTO clutch and brake fragments).

The hardest part of removing my axle housings was getting the
brake levers off the shafts. I had to drill holes for pullers (both sides).
Yours may be easier.

So I got to the point where I need to punch out the roll pins and there is not enough space to hammer the punch..
How did you get a puller to work for that purpose?

 

[dfkrug]

From my thread on my first 4300.

Did you pull the fender off first?

 

[dragon36]

I just got the rear axle housing off my 4300. I removed the snap ring but the axle shaft won't budge. Any ideas on what could be holding onto it? I don't want to start hammering on it if it's still be held somewhere. Thanks

 

[beenthere]

Pics of where you are at, and of the snap ring removed would be great.

 

[dragon36]

Pics of where you are at, and of the snap ring removed would be great.

Sorry it took so long, I've been busy. I got my housing to the welder and they pressed it out. They also welded some aluminum so I could attach a new retainer. I got the other housing off and the axle slid right out. My housings were pretty corroded so hopefully the seal will seal good enough. Here are before and after pics for my right housing.

 

[Jimmy797]

So I completed this job yesterday, replacing the right rear axle seal. The axle slid out very easily by hand, so no press was needed. Not sure why the service manual says a press is required.

The job was pretty easy for an intermediate mechanic or higher. I would not recommend the beginner/novice mechanic attempt this repair.

GENERAL OVERVIEW OF STEPS:
1. Jack up tractor, remove wheel, drain fluid(7 gallons!)
2. Remove ROPS, 3 point hitch, fender to gain access to housing
3. Remove brake return spring. Remove roll pins and linkages on brake lever and differential lock lever. Remove these two levers from housing.
4. Remove 8 cap screws(two of the eight screws are different sizes, remember where they go for reassembly!)
5. Gently pry housing away, secure with transmission jack or something similar since the unit is heavy. I used a floor jack with some blocks of wood and some ratcheting tie-down straps to secure housing before fully removing from tractor.

6. To remove axle, remove snap ring and gear and then slide the axle out.
7. Remove seal retainer plate to access the seal. Remove old seal and insert new one.

8. Installation is the reverse of removal. Just be sure pinion shaft bottoms out in brake plates when reassembling. Also clean mating surfaces and use some good RTV. Might want to replace differential lock seal and brake shaft O-ring while you're in there, since they are cheap parts.

Just finished replacing the right rear axle seal. This thread was extremely helpful in completing the job. I wouldn't have been able to do it without the thread. Thank you so much guys. A couple of things to add that might make it easier for the next guy.
1. I had to drill to holes in the brake lever and use a small puller to get the lever off. It cans off easy using a puller.
2. The shaft for the differential lock goes all the way from the left to the right side, even though there is no linkage on the right side.
3. The axle housing was getting hung up on the brake lever shaft. I had to hit it with a hammer (carefully ) to get the axle off.
4. I needed another set of hands to line up the gears and and brake plates reassemble the axke housing to the tractor.
5. I removed both tires, both fenders, both 3 point hitch arms and the ROPS.