4210?

[FarmerSean]

Hi all, I recently purchased 15 acres of mountainous property in western MD. I would estimate that there is about 5 - 6 acres of finish mowing and maybe another couple three of unfinished. I see a lot of tile work, and some other projects that I think need done. Never having owned a tractor before I figured I'd check out the expert opinion. I talked to my grandad and he thought that my needs pretty much suggested a 25 hp tractor with definitely a loader and a few other attachments. After some serious thinking, (I think I popped a gasket) I figure a JD 4210 is the right idea. My grandad suggested a Kioti, but the closest dealer is like an hour and a half a way. No dice there. I talked to the wife, and she thinks $300 / month is pretty doable. What do you guys think?

 

[jcmseven]

FarmerSean,

I hope I do not speak out of line with other posters thoughts, but it seems the 4210 has one major inadequacy: power. Several posters own these tractors and seemingly have good results with them, but others find them underpowered for their size. These are heavy tractors and their 28 horses simply do not provide enough firepower, in my mind. John Deere apparently recognizes this fact also, as it is increasing the power across its mid-frame line, most notably in the tractor you mention. I believe this leaves you with the following options: first, if you want to go green, you could wait for the 3120, which gives you more power and new styling over the existing 4210 (out in about one-two months); you could go with a 4110 or 4115, which are small frame tractors of 20 and 24 horsepower respectively; or you could get a 4310, which is nominally more expensive but has a good bit more power and higher hydraulic flow. It is roughly the same physical size as the 4210. The 4310, in my mind, is a good step up from the 4210 with regard to power and should be available for a good price as the dealers begin to get in the new 3000 series. John Deere dealers are under a mandate to clear out the existing 10 series to make room for the new models, and this fact could definitely work in your favor. I, personally, think this would be your best option, as the 4310 is a fabulous machine that will serve you well, and does not really cost THAT MUCH more than the tractor you mention. Good Luck!

John M.

 

[RoyJackson]

Go for the 4310...much better fit for your acreage.

 

[dmp437]

Another vote for the 4310. More power and a bigger hydraulic pump. A John Deere is a long term asset so a bit more money up front pays off big in the long term.

 

[FarmerSean]

John,

Thanks for the information. I see from the other posters you're not out of line. Four more questions then to follow up (any one else feel free to chime in):

Is there anything to look out for when I go to the dealer this Saturday when I sit on it?

Also, how important is the difference between a 60" mower and a 72"?

With the terrain being what it is (steep driveways and such), should I just stick with the R1 tires? How bad will they tear up grass? I'm not big into golf course lawns, I just want to make sure the pasture and the yard doesn't turn into a jungle.

And finally, are there any must have attachments? I know a FEL, the mower and the back hoe are important (to me).

Thanks,

Sean

 

[755inNY]

Sean,

I also recommend the 4310 if it fits your budget.

With 4 wheel drive you should have no problem with the R4 tires. The R1's will tear up your lawn more.

The 60" MMM barely sticks out beyond the tire width making it difficult to mow up close to things. I think the 72" is a better fit for the 4310 but that's what I have so I guess I'm a little partial.

I would suggest the 430 loader for the 4310 and get the heavy duty bucket. It's about $100 more and definitely worth it.

Have you decided on the transmission type?

There are accesories such as cruise control, automotive style cruise, block heaters, forward and rear work lights that are nice to have depending on your use. See if the dealer charges extra for installation or throws it in as part of the deal. The cost of the items is not that much but installation costs can add $$$

Get the 3rd SCV and lift cylinder for the mower deck. The other option is to use the 3PH with a cable set-up to lift the deck. Not very desirable. You can use the 3rd SCV for other implements that require hydraulics.

Also get Power Beyond. You will need this for the backhoe. It is better to have the power beyond installed now even if you get the hoe later.

Good Luck.

Jeff

 

[jcmseven]

Sean,
There is really nothing special to watch out for during your visit to the dealership. The main thing to note is, as other posters have noted, the transmission type. Your main options are the e power reverser and the e hydro. I have an e hydro and you should too. Just kidding! There is an upcharge for the e hydro transmission, but it is well worth it. Especially on hills, it is very helpful. If your ability to get onto a 4310 hinges on cost, the power reverser is OK, but not as efficient. The hydrostatic makes a BIG difference and is the single biggest decision to make. Your dealer may try to steer you to the power reversers, as there are a lot of them still out there. Don't bite, insist on trying them both, even if it means a drive to another dealer for testing purposes to see which YOU prefer. Next, the R4 tires give the best all-around performance. Unless you are spending a lot of time in the mud or snow, the R1 tires are too aggressive. The main issue with them is not tearing up grass, which they do not do THAT badly, but the fact they further narrow an already narrow tractor stance, slightly comprimising lateral stability-- a factor on hills. I concur that the 72" deck for a mid mount is your best option, the 60" is too small. JD now makes a 72" 7-iron deck with a flexible chute for that tractor, which is a super mower. If rear cutter is your speed, I would consider the Frontier line. I chose a 60" side discharge because I haul my mower a good bit, but the 4310 will power a 72" RFM also, either rear or side discharge. These mowers provide a really nice cut for a RFM (really close to that of the center mount deck); are a snap to attach/remove; and if you consider an "economy" line Frontier (still an excellent mower) you can save some money v. the mid mount 72", which you could put toward the hydro transmission. They may not mow quite as well if your terrain is hilly and abruptly so, but otherwise are the match of most MMM's. The 300cx loader is BY FAR the best loader for the 4310, but it is brand new and hard to find at this time. They are being made and are at select dealerships. The 300cx is a real step up from the venerable 430 loader, but again, at a cost. One could get a 430 for several hundred less than the 300cx, and it would do fine. But, if you want the best....(Please note JD also has a 300x loader which is not the equivalent of a 430). I would have to defer to the others on the backhoe. My experience with them is limited. Good luck.

John M.

 

[dmp437]

Also, how important is the difference between a 60" mower and a 72"?

If you're finish mowing "5-6 acres" I would say the 72" would be very important. The 72 also lets you mow tighter to structures & trees without getting the tractor closer.

For finish mowing I would also get R4's, not R1's. Your soil type will be the big factor, but R1's have higher compaction. Interestingly, the front tires on mine do more damage than the rears even though the rears are loaded with RimGuard.
If your delaer will do free installaton on options consider engine & transmission heaters, a set of worklights, the PowerBeyond kit, and the cruise control upgrade (I assume you're getting an eHydro /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif ).

 

[dicker]

Good morning

I have the 48 backhoe on a 4310.

It is fantastic. There is nothing that I cannot do with it as long as I have the patience. I have the 12" bucket which seems to be a good match.

Good luck

Richard

 

[Denali60]

I don't disagree with any opinions here, but I just want to tell my experience with my first tractor. I had a JD 755 Hydro with loader and turf tires, 20Hp (15PTO), that I bought used with 200hrs on it. I made a ballast box out of wood for the 3-point hitch, and used six 12" cinder blocks for weight. I used it to move dirt, boulders, sod, bricks, blocks, wood, snow, etc. I loaded on the bucket, and over the bucket, as much as I could without it falling off. It did everything I asked; I was totally impressed. I had no problems in dry sandy/gravel soil with traction, and I could climb a 30% grade on ice in the winter. When moving dirt, it would climb hills so steep I though I might flip over backward at times (never did, but about six close-calls sideways on a hill/terrace). I was so lucky, getting this tractor, not knowing much about them. The hydro was priceless; it's a must have for me. I liked the small size for maneuverability. Both those items let me work faster. The fuel economy was incredible, and the tractor was 100% reliable. I didn't mow with it, but the guy I sold it to does, he said he thinks it's at the limit of power while running the mower, but still OK. Maybe so, maybe not. Some guys find it distressing to hear a motor "work" a little. To me, that's what motors are for. In sum, for my $12k back in 1998 on a smaller machine, I got a ton of work done with it; a ton. If I had spent $24k, I don't think I would have got as much 'value' for the money. This is just my experience, for my project. Hope it's good info for you. (PS. I wish I still had it.)