430 mower deck Peerless bolt torque

[michael.white]

Hi all,

On top of the New Holland I've got a John Deere 430 garden tractor with I don't know how many hours - the hour meter was stopped at 1584 when I bought about six years back. Good tractor though. It came with a 60" mower deck that uses the Peerless gear box. Here's a diagram of the gear box: ARIMain - WEINGARTZ

Anyway, after topping off the mower deck gear box this spring, I came out next day to gear oil all over the mower deck. I removed the gear box and the seal on the pulley side of the gear box drips just sitting still. From the parts diagram, it seems like a simple gearbox so I tore it down - no crush sleeves and just factory shims. I did have to remove a nut from the end of one of the shafts, specifically #21 in the diagram. The nut appears to do no more than prevent the bevel gear (#18) from falling off; there was a small bit of play in the bevel gear, i.e. the nut/washer combo was in no way holding the bevel gear tight.

Anyone have any idea of what the torque for this nut should be? I did mark the nut and shaft before loosening, so worst-case I can put it back where I found it. Hopefully it's not one of those "use it once and discard" nuts.

Thanks.

 

[tomplum]

If I have the correct drive out of the Peerless handbook, this is what it says:
Rotate the cage while tightening the nut.
14. To achieve proper pre-load on bearings, place the outboard side of shaft in protected vice. Begin to tighten nut on gear side, while turning cage until a very slight drag is achieved on the cage housing with no end play. Parts must spin freely.

You may still be able to find the book online. It could prove useful.

 

[5030]

Did you use any sealant before assembling?

 

[michael.white]

If I have the correct drive out of the Peerless handbook, this is what it says:
Rotate the cage while tightening the nut.
14. To achieve proper pre-load on bearings, place the outboard side of shaft in protected vice. Begin to tighten nut on gear side, while turning cage until a very slight drag is achieved on the cage housing with no end play. Parts must spin freely.

You may still be able to find the book online. It could prove useful.

I don't know if I can get it that tight, but I'll try. When I pulled it apart there was no preload and that nut was pretty tight. There's a spacer, maybe it's worn. Thanks!

Did you use any sealant before assembling?

No, I shouldn't need any - there's a couple of o-rings on the removable face plates. I've ordered new o-rings; the old ones didn't leak and there was no old sealant.

 

[michael.white]

Just a quick follow up. I was able to torque the nut following tomplum's advice - thanks! Fortunately, I bought a new nut because it is a lock nut. When I put in the new seals, I pushed them in a bit further than the originals, so they ride on a different part of the shaft. Put everything else back together and filled it with oil. I also had to replace the mower deck tension spring, as the end had broken off. Started up the tractor and engaged the mower - life! Let it run for about 30 seconds, noticed a bit different noise than before, a bit of a whine/whirr - figured it's either the new tension spring or a properly torqued bearing. Doesn't sound like a bad bearing. No leaks after sitting overnight. Cut the yard, no issues.

Hopefully good for another 40 years!