4300 rear diff lock

[fieldman12]

It sounds like you are using the differential lock correctly. The differential lock will only engage when one wheel is turning faster than the other is how it should work. The reason for this is you have a sliding coupler inside the rear end of the tractor that must line up with the other part of the coupler before it will engage and the only way to make them line up is one wheel must be turning a little faster. Every now and then you will get lucky and they will be lined up with each other without one tire needing to turn faster but not often. The only thing that you should not do is never engage the differential lock with one tire spinning out of control. The next time you are doing a little blade work and you feel it start to loose traction, just lightly press the differential peddle down untill the sliding coupler lines up and keep it engaged until you do not need it any longer. Also it is a good idea to lubricate all of the differential lock parts that go into the rear end housing including the differential lock linkage at least a couple times a year because I have seen several that have seized up over the years.

 

[JerryG]

Trev,
Beenthere is correct. You need to have both wheels stopped. Press on the differential lock. Ease out on the clutch. As you do this the lock should engage. You do not want a wheel to be spinning as you engage it. If a wheel is spinning, you then risk breaking a tooth or other parts.

 

[em14]

The diff lock is only to get you thru a tuff spot and not to be engaged like a "Detroit Locker" ... once the wheels are not slipping the Diff Lock jumps out .... when I was a much younger man ( a very distant memory) I recall breaking ground all day long with the front wheels spenting most of the day in the air making me stear with the brakes ... what's the saying "God looks after fools and drunks (and young kid tractor drivers)"

 

[Trev]

Okay, folks.. it seems like we have two different opinions being expressed here:

1) Wheels should be completely stopped when engaging diff lock.

2) One wheel must be spinning to some extent for it to engage.

All my manual says is to "stop or slow tractor before engaging." Which doesn't really illuminate the problem much except it seems to suggest that it is okay to be moving when engaging it.

I tried what some folks suggested about pushing in the clutch, pushing down the lock pedal, and then easing out the clutch. The diff lock pedal would not go down. I tried this repeatedly.

So then I tried doing some dirt pushing, slowly, and just gently rested my heel on the lock pedal. Every now and then it would engage, and it made a noticeable difference in traction. I would have to keep my heel on it most of the time to keep it engaged, but I gather that's normal.

What may or may not be normal is the inability to engage it when the tractor is stopped with the clutch depressed. I guess it's okay the way it is, but I often can't get it in when I want it in.. maybe I just have to live with that?

Thanks everyone,
Bob

 

[beenthere]

Seems safe to tell you that your differential lock seems to be working correctly. You will learn how to effectively engage it with practice. Hopefully you won't have a big torque load differential when the pins engage that is sufficient to cause a failure.
With my tractor in 4wd, I rarely have to engage mine. If there isn't enough traction without the diff. lock engaged, I take a smaller bite. Have fun.

 

[fieldman12]

It is made to be engaged while moving and we have done this for over 20 years with not any problems on small and large tractors. It is designed so that if you are, lets say plowing for example, you don't have to stop, just simply engage it when you can tell you are beginng to loose traction. The other way of stopping such as in plowing would be a big hassle.

1. You would have to stop
2. Raise plow
3. Back up a little
4.Let out clutch and start moving forward while pushing down on differential lock peddle.
5. Quickly lower plow back into ground.

Actually the same thing is basically happening when people are releasing the clutch and trying to engage peddle. When one will starts the movement it will actually do just a little bit of will slippage for a split second or two that most people do not realize. Sometimes this little movemet will be enough so that the sliding coupler will line up but not always. Their is also several different brands and sizes of tractors out their with the same type of differential lock setup, except the cluch and differential lock peddle are both located on the same side. This would make it almost impossible to let out the clutch and engage the differentail lock at the same time without getting help from your other leg.
The main concern is do not engage the lock like others have said before, while one tire is spinning out of control.

 

[djradz]

Sitting still is OK but may be difficult because the gears may not be lighned up. Pushing in the clutch really doesn't help in that situation. Slight motion is OK as well. The only thing not to do is engage it while one wheel is spinning rapidly. If your tractor's a gear unit, I'd suggest pushing in the clutch slightly, if a hydro, let up mostly on the pedal. Common sense dictates that you don't want to "shock" the drivetrain.