4300 repeatedly breaks turnbuckle,

buzst · Jun 20, 2003

Re: Sorry Guys, no more Deere for me!!

I'm no expert on this but it seems to me that you can either have lateral stress on the sway link or lower arm but not both at the same time. So if the sway links were not adjusted to prevent stress on the bracket than they would not have any stress on them and thus not broken. maybe the mulitple failures of the sway links caused the stopage stress you refer to.

iamgott · Jun 20, 2003

Re: Sorry Guys, no more Deere for me!!

Apreciate your reply Gary,
I guess more than anything, what has me upset, is the fact that the dealer repaired many things on this machine that did not need repairing, and in John Deere's eye's, makes me look worse than I am. When the Loader malfunctioned, "3 times" they replaced the wrong parts, then they lied to me, and I think they even aquired some new hydraulic cylinders "free of charge" for their inventory, and possible other parts.
Thats just "ONE" instance.
I am working on a little bio for er'one to read "if they wish".

The 4300 is an awesome machine, but I still have one problem without resolve.

The dealer and Mechanic added insult to injury and they wont come clean, and this truly disturbs me

I feel they are doin their best to keep the area rep. or other "higher ups" away from me, as they know they have lied to me "at my expense",
Repeatedly repaired items which were not in need of repair
and just plain bad shop practices and other things

Anonymous Poster · Jun 20, 2003

Re: Sorry Guys, no more Deere for me!!

Having posted very little in this forum, and not owning a tractor of my own, I would perfer not to inflame any tempers. This thread has come a long way from where it was and I would now like to post an honest question.

As I have said in another thread, I am seriously looking into a JD4310 for use with multiple 3pt attachments. Having seen what can happen when things go wrong, and having heard some people hint at possible solutions, I would like to take this chance to learn something.

<font color="red">What is the proper way to adjust a 3pt implement? </font>

I know this might sounds like a very basic question, but this thread has made me wonder. If someone out there could be so kind as to make a step by step list of the procedures they have (successfully) used to connect implements, I would greatly appreciate it and I'm sure other's may learn from it as well.

Thank you,
Mark

iamgott · Jun 20, 2003

Re: Sorry Guys, no more Deere for me!!

Well, with the problems I been having, you may not have faith in my installation/adjustment, but:
Im not sure if the 4310 has sway chains or brackets "like mine", but-
I keep the sway brackets adjusted outward and fairly snug to keep draft links centered on the "attachment points" of the various implements. This does not require rocket science, You have to adjust it to "FIT" to be able to even connect the implement. the further outward you can adjust the drag links, the less "right / left" downward stress on the whole assembly.

As for the lift link and turnbuckle, the turnbuckle is there so you can adjust the angle of the blade, so there is actually no set way to adjust it, when first installed, it should be evenly threaded "both halves" and installed on a level "boxblade" or level with the oposite side. it depends on what you are doing.

As for the upper control arm, "tilt adjustment" "pivot back and forth" this controls whether your blade cuts forward or back, or the amount it cuts going either direction. This, you set your blade/implement on level ground and adjust so that it is level "along the edge, side of the blade. On hard ground, there should be an even spacing along the entire bottom edge of the blade "between it, and the ground surface".
You do however, have to make sure you do not ever over extend it, or shorten it to much, as this could cause it to bottom against the rockshaft housing assembly, or not allow enough travel down "if to short" which could result in unexpected damage, and severe!!
When first assembling these links etc. make sure you allow even spacing of the threaded portions, and that you have ample threades engaged "if done to proper dimensions for the application, this "should" occur by itself. On brush hogs, mowers etc. I have found this may need to be extended quite a bit, in relation to like a "box blade"
This is not a step by step procedure as I have put it, there may be a procedure for each and every "different" impliment and its application. Dont let my original posts worry you, actually, aside from "some breakage" "which SOME could be due to pilot error", I also have had some bad dealer experiences, and an unexplained problem with this one link.
I hope this helps, and if anyone see's where Im doin somethin wrong, let me know!!!

rancar · Jun 20, 2003

Re: Sorry Guys, no more Deere for me!!

<font color="blue">"...What is the proper way to adjust a 3pt implement?..." </font>

Mark...

Implements made by different manufacturers may be different in design and operation. While there are likely some general rules of thumb that can be delineated, every manufacturer (whether John Deere, Woods, Land Pride, etc) provides an operations manual that specifically provides instructions on different adjustment procedures for different operational conditions. Minor nuances may exist among the different manufacturers and specific, hard and fast rules for adjustment may be difficult to delineate. It's always best to read and understand the procedures as laid out in the operations manual for the implement in question before one attempts to make adjustments.

...Bob

iamgott · Jun 20, 2003

Re: Sorry Guys, no more Deere for me!!

All that typing for nothin, lol. But yes, Rancar is right. What I said is a basic operational description of how "I" understand "my" attachments. But then again, if you buy a used or "off" brand implement, or as like in my case, "my brand new box blade came with no paperwork at all" maybe what I typed may be of some help.

Golfgar4 · Jun 20, 2003

Re: Sorry Guys, no more Deere for me!!

Boy! /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif

After reading through all of these posts, I think this is the first time I'm kind of glad I haven't gotten my tractor yet! /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif

I was just wondering, Ed. If you've had all of these problems with the dealer and the mechanic, and believe me, I absolutely believe what you've been telling us, have you considered taking the machine to an independent mechanic? Surely you could find a qualified tractor mechanic around there somewhere that could help you out. Now I realize that the work would not be covered under warranty, but is it really being covered now? Doesn't sound like it to me. You might be way ahead by going somewhere else to have the work done.

Just my $0.02 worth! /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif

iamgott · Jun 20, 2003

Re: Sorry Guys, no more Deere for me!!

Thanks golfcar4!!
Well, actually, no, it ran out of warranty last month. I had inquired about the extended warranty, but my saleman also misinformed me that the deductable was $500.00. Thinking this was true, I did not opt for it. Now, only later did I actually find out it was/is $250.00 ded. If I had been aware of this, I would have got it. I have been told, I might still be able to get it, but the machine must be in good working order and undergo an inspection prior to aproval. But with the transmission going out in my truck $1,500.00 and a blown headgasket on my Dump $$unknown, and the $400+ I had to shell out for these parts, Im litterally broke, so even after I get the machine back together, Im not sure if I'll have the money to get the extended warranty, or if it will still be available. Actually, I am perfectly capable of doing my own repairs, but while it was under warranty, they would not permit me, except for a few little items. I just disasembled the machine and am getting ready to remove the axle housing, rain chased me indoors. Yes, I dont have a covered garage, at least one "accesible?" I hate those trick words,,lol

Anyone have any pointers before I remove this housing? Anything gonna go "BOOO,,,iiing?? yea, Im perfectly capable,,,hehehe

JohnMiller3 · Jun 20, 2003

Re: Sorry Guys, no more Deere for me!!

4300 3-Point Hitch parts

Cart KEY PART NO. PART NAME QTY SERIAL NO. REMARKS

1 M123745 PIN 1

2 19M7865 BOLT 2 M8 X 16

3 AM125811 SUPPORT 1

4 24M7055 WASHER 1 8.400 X 16 X 1.600 MM

5 11M7080 COTTER PIN 1 2.500 X 16 MM

6 CH19220 SPRING 1 (W/O CAB)

M136396 SPRING 1 (W/ CAB)

7 AR62149 QUICK LOCK PIN 6

8 34M3851 SPRING PIN 2 4 X 24 MM

9 AM119697 CENTER LINK END 1 LH THREAD
Cart KEY PART NO. PART NAME QTY SERIAL NO. REMARKS

10 CE17590 PLUG 2

11 AM119699 CENTER LINK 1

12 14M7278 NUT 1 M24

13 AM119698 CENTER LINK END 1 RH THREAD

14 CH11409 PIN FASTENER 1

15 CE17307 SPRING PIN 1

16 CE18325 LIFT LINK 1

17 T21901 BALL 1

18 M120789 LINK BODY 1

19 RE42504 HANDLE 1
Cart KEY PART NO. PART NAME QTY SERIAL NO. REMARKS

20 JD7798 LUBRICATION FITTING 1

21 99M7016 PLUG 2

22 M120791 YOKE 1

23 AM126169 LIFT LINK 1 RH

24 M120905 PIN 2

25 M90337 STOP 4

26 AM126167 DRAFT LINK 2

27 A3581R SPRING LOCKING PIN 2

28 CE18326 LIFT LINK 1

29 34M7030 SPRING PIN 1 5 X 20 MM
Cart KEY PART NO. PART NAME QTY SERIAL NO. REMARKS

30 M120791 YOKE 1

31 T21901 BALL 1

32 JD7798 LUBRICATION FITTING 1

33 99M7016 PLUG 2

34 AM126168 LIFT LINK 1 LH

35 LVU13387 PIN 2 (SUB FOR M124515)

36 14M7328 LOCK NUT 2 M16

37 ........ BUSHING 2 - XXXXXX (NLA) (ORDER M138943)

38A ........ BOLT 2 - XXXXXX (ORDER M138943)

38B M138943 BOLT 2 XXXXXX -
Cart KEY PART NO. PART NAME QTY SERIAL NO. REMARKS

39 M136096 PIN FASTENER 1

40 AM126932 STABILIZER 1 FEMALE

41 AM126866 STABILIZER 1 MALE

42 M84180 RING 1 (SUB FOR M120514)

43 AM126163 STABILIZER FOOT 2

44 M137645 PIN FASTENER 2

45 M84180 RING 2 (SUB FOR M120514)

46 AM119874 CENTER LINK 1

.. LVB25072 KIT 1 DRAFT LINKS, TELESCOPING (INCLUDES LVA10606(RH) AND LVA10607(LH)) (NOT SHOWN)