4300 repeatedly breaks turnbuckle,

normde2001 · Jun 23, 2003

Re: broken turnbuckle

Ed, can you get a closeup pic. of the connection of the lift arm link and the lift arm? Is that really a square hole fitting on a square shaft the way it appears to me in the picture, possibly not allowing enough front/back movement? Also, when you get it back together, as I said earlier, I would raise the box to the level where it breaks, set it on a wall or anything solid, and see if you can easily remove the link in that position, or is it in a strain. I don't know much about tractors per se, but as a long time mechanical troubleshooter, this thing has really got my attention.

iamgott · Jun 23, 2003

Yep!!! Double checked it today, its aluminum!! The differential housing and main tractor chassis is cast iron, but the axle housings are alum!! Get er magnets out!!! When their in place, you'd never know, but once it comes off, it clearly eveident. Not saying its not strong, but really, I would have thought this would be steel too, dern!!!

iamgott · Jun 23, 2003

Grim reaper, If this thing were to keep breaking at its current rate, the extended warranty would be a very wise move!! "if I planned on keeping it". And its not that easy to sell or trade in without taking more loss. I think I realize where the problem lies now, so Im starting from the ground up with the 3 pt assembly. I am discussing some deals with other dealers for a bigger machine, but if I cannot absorb the loss, I may have to "squeak by" for awhile. I have had a run of bad luck lately, pratically left me destitute and beggin for food, lol. ok, well its not so funny, and drop the practically..,,l. Im sorry, but I still dont see where your comin from, "They had to replace the turnbuckle" "Not Me". Although since my warranty has just expired, its now gonna be on myself, so NOW, I am determined to figure it out and fix it. If I ever have to go in for service again, I'll take it to the other dealer 40 miles away. Actually, it may only be 30. I dont feel I have made many errors, "JUST ONE" purchasing from this dealer. After givin em 10 thousand dollars down, I cant just tell em to stick it in their Kuzooo, and give it back. Remember, for the first 2 years, it was "THEM" who put the turnbuckles on. Now that its my turn, you can be sure, Im gonna get to the bottom of it. Thanks,,,,,,,,,,,,,gott

iamgott · Jun 23, 2003

Chief, are you referring to "Locknuts?" or maybe the 2 square lookin washer things that go on the bottom on either side of the pin? 2 on each side total 4

Jim_Fisher · Jun 23, 2003

gott,

 Remember, for the first 2 years, it was "THEM" who put the turnbuckles on. Now that its my turn, you can be sure, Im gonna get to the bottom of it. 

I've got the same tractor, 4300 HST, and I looked at my three point hitch and compared it to the pictures that you posted. Yours shows extreme wear on both the draft arms and lift links. I have virtually no wear.

Let's figure out what is different.

I took delivery of my tractor in September of 2000 and currently have about 570 hours on it. Roughly one third of the hours are non-three point work - finish mowing or PTO generator.

Of the three point work, the most time is with a standard issue John Deere wieght box filled with sand (500 lbs give or take) while using the loader.

The other three point time is divided up between tiller (660 - 650 lbs), rock rake (6' Befco - pretty light), MX5 rough cut mower (don't remember the wieght, but fairly heavy and long - lots of leverage side to side) and a Shaver post driver - heavy and lots of jarring and shaking.

All three point equipment is nominally category 1.

When I attach something to the three point, I tend to limit the side sway as much as I can. There's enough play native to the hitch so I set the arms as close as I can using the sway bars.

Make a list of the things that you do different, hours, etc. and let's see what we (we means the entire forum - not just me and gott) can figure out.

Jim

iamgott · Jun 23, 2003

Hmmmn, Thats interesting, I usually set the lift arms and drag links as far apart as possible, in order to reduce the stress via the leverage produced by the implement. There is excessive play in the stabilizer/sway brackets as I was not able to line them both up in the same hole "thats why I asked the dealer about spacers on the implement". I guess, I dont have to have them aligned perfectly even, but if not, it would slightly offsett the implement to one side which i thought would cause to much stree on one side?? As far as usage, I mostly use the Box Blade "scraper" sometimes with the scarifers. Maybe twice a year I'll use a Rough Cut Mower "brush-hog?" and yes, its heavy and long. It has never broke with the mower attached though. Other than that I just use the loader and leave the Box Blade on for ballast.
Whats interesting is, you said you keep your drag links inward? as much as possible?

I guess I could try that, I just thought the further apart the less stress on the 3 pt. Im goin to the dealer in the morning and getting "1" one more turnbuckle, but dont tell grimreaper, LOL. and also new pins and those sqaure lookin washers for the one side thats missin em. Last time I was there, he had a turnbuckle in a JOHN DEERE BOX, all the others they have given me were loose. Did I miss anything?
Thanks

iamgott · Jun 23, 2003

Re: broken turnbuckle

Oh, and Norm, I'll try and get some more pics up tomorrow, gott

Chief · Jun 23, 2003

They are stamped out steel tabs or a washer of sorts that the pin for the turn buckle goes through. The tabs or (stops) fit into machined areas at the bottom of the turn buckle clevis to prevent the rockshaft from rising up and striking the the turn buckle clevis. Go to JDparts.com and look up the parts and look at the pictures. I was thinking about your problem and looking at my turn buckles since they are the same and noticed I had one stop missing on the left turn buckle. I picked up the rock shaft and noticed that it twisted due to the missing stop. This could put uneven stress loads on the turn buckle and possibly cause problems. It is worth checking into.

iamgott · Jun 24, 2003

Yea chief, would you believe, the side that doesn't have em is the side that Dont break?
I usually get new ones whenever I lose em, but was kinda tied up lately. In those pics, the side thats all chewed up is the side that has never broke, maybe cuz there's more play?
At any rate, gettin the new hardware tomorrow, and when I get done, it better not twist or break. I'll try to post some new pics tomorrow of the whole 3 pt setup.

Jim_Fisher · Jun 24, 2003

gott,

( Whats interesting is, you said you keep your drag links inward? as much as possible? )

Yes, I usually put a tarp strap between the lynch pin storage rings when I hook up - makes it easier to get both pins in the draft arms without getting off the tractor and kicking them. Usually leave it on until I have the sway arms set.

Another thing - when I use the MX5 mower, I turn the tabs of the plates that are missing from the left side of your tractor out, allowing the arms to float up and down independently. That is the instruction from the mower manual and mostly I leave them that way since hooking up on uneven ground is a lot simpler.

Not sure if having one side tight and one side float is part of your problem but it might be worth investigating.

( Im goin to the dealer in the morning and getting "1" one more turnbuckle, but dont tell grimreaper, LOL. and also new pins and those sqaure lookin washers for the one side thats missin em. )

You should only have to replace the bolt (part 15 in the drawing), if they'll sell it separate. Looks like there are two roll pins to change (15 and 29) so you might want to get them too.

The square looking washers are the what allows you to set the up and down tight or float that I mentioned above.

Jim