4310 brakes hanging

[dfkrug]

You noticed dragging even with the 1" of free play for the rods in the crank slot?

At rest, you want the brakes fully disengaged. In the inch of free play that
you have the wet brakes start to resist at only the slightest bit of
lever movement.

BTW, my 2 4300s have each of the 2 parking brake systems, hand lever, and
dash knob.

 

[chickenman]

At rest, you want the brakes fully disengaged. In the inch of free play that
you have the wet brakes start to resist at only the slightest bit of
lever movement.

BTW, my 2 4300s have each of the 2 parking brake systems, hand lever, and
dash knob.

i dropped the link to the brake and still had to pound on the bell crank

 

[arrabil]

At rest, you want the brakes fully disengaged. In the inch of free play that you have the wet brakes start to resist at only the slightest bit of lever movement.

The lever/pedal/cam/whatever has 1" of free play on mine. As per the tech manual. Before the brakes begin to engage, you have to move all that at least an inch. Once you hit the end of that inch, its like you're saying, they start engaging immediately. Mine do not engage from linkage friction as far as I can tell (had the kid operating the pedals while I was under the tractor).

BTW, my 2 4300s have each of the 2 parking brake systems, hand lever, and
dash knob.

You added that I take it? Thats pretty cool. What was required to add the dash knob? I have the lever. And I have a hole for the dash knob since I have new cowl panels and JD only sells the ones with the hole now.

Once I got the brake bellcranks off (VERY HARD, see story)

I was looking at that today on my tractor. You have/try a slide hammer? I wonder if that makes it any easier?

i dropped the link to the brake and still had to pound on the bell crank

I would be pulling the final drive housing to repair that. Your brakes are alway on then and I can't see that being good for your wallet let alone the tractor. Those parts in there are very expensive.

 

[chickenman]

The lever/pedal/cam/whatever has 1" of free play on mine. As per the tech manual. Before the brakes begin to engage, you have to move all that at least an inch. Once you hit the end of that inch, its like you're saying, they start engaging immediately. Mine do not engage from linkage friction as far as I can tell (had the kid operating the pedals while I was under the tractor).


You added that I take it? Thats pretty cool. What was required to add the dash knob? I have the lever. And I have a hole for the dash knob since I have new cowl panels and JD only sells the ones with the hole now.


I was looking at that today on my tractor. You have/try a slide hammer? I wonder if that makes it any easier?


I would be pulling the final drive housing to repair that. Your brakes are alway on then and I can't see that being good for your wallet let alone the tractor. Those parts in there are very expensive.

first I have to isolate the electronic problem and get it going, it's looking more and more like a bad drive controller

 

[dfkrug]

You added that I take it? Thats pretty cool. What was required to add the dash knob? I have the lever. And I have a hole for the dash knob since I have new cowl panels and JD only sells the ones with the hole now.

JD changed from the early hand brake lever to the dash knob parking
brake latch in about 2001. That is just one of the many differences
between my rebuild project tractor, a 2000 model, and the later one.
Yours is much like my 2000.

Fortunately, I did not need to buy any brake parts from JD.....it would
be bad if you can not get the early parts any more.

I kinda like the hand brake. This and the Bolens-Iseki G274 are the only
tractors I have seat time on that have hand brakes. One problem is
that the JD handbrake takes some care to fully disengage. Maybe that is
why it was discontinued?

As for the bellcranks, they get a bit of corrosion between them and the
shafts. Both of mine required drilling for my strongest gear pullers.