4310 brakes hanging

[chickenman]

Part #2 is the cam shaft?

Why not take it apart and fix it? There isn't all that much to it according to the tech manual.

that's not my major problem at the moment

and to fix it you have to take the side of the transaxle off, a lot of work

usually they free up with a little travel, you wouldn't accept that in a car

 

[arrabil]

I guess I don't see that as a lot of work.

Good luck with the electronics. There were a lot of problems with them initially. I specifically bought a model without them even though I hear the eHydro is very cool. It'll probably last you a long time after you get it repaired with updated parts.

 

[dfkrug]

They don't seem strong enough to disengage a stuck brake.

I don't think they are strong enough to disengage a stuck brake. There
are a lot of places where you get friction in the whole linkage system....
I have had EVERYTHING apart, including the friction discs and plates inside
the axle housings. Especially trouble-prone are the greasable pivots inside
the bell housing, IMO. Even a slight bit of additional dragging caused by the
bellcrank not returning to the not-engaged position can be a performance
problem.

BTW, the brakes on my 4300 work very well now, despite the hours and
the previous hard rental life.

 

[arrabil]

Especially trouble-prone are the greasable pivots inside the bell housing, IMO. Even a slight bit of additional dragging caused by the bellcrank not returning to the not-engaged position can be a performance problem.

I very much agree with that. I had all the linkages apart and made sure they worked like they should before I could get the brakes adjusted properly.

Did you notice any binding inside the housing like Chickenman is describing?

 

[chickenman]

I very much agree with that. I had all the linkages apart and made sure they worked like they should before I could get the brakes adjusted properly.

Did you notice any binding inside the housing like Chickenman is describing?

and my question is would someone buy a new car like that?

other design deficiencies I think are the steering wheel tilt, the trans range shift, wiring, and that silly little green piece of plastic on the front underside stuck on with double sided tape that fell off not to mention the exorbitant prices for parts.


and the manual I bought to work on the tractor that doesn't cover the electrical system on my tractor because changes were made not in the manual

do you hear that jd, you owe me a new manual so I can fix my tractor

 

[arrabil]

And you didn't buy a new car. You bought a used 4310. And you have all the known problems. Much like every used car I buy winds up with most of the known problems for that model and year.

Besides, I don't operate my car in a field most of the time. And actually, the car I do operate in a field needs more maintenance than my tractor does to keep it running in top shape. Exposed disc brakes and flexible hydraulic lines in a tractor/farm environment would be a non-starter for most people.

It sounds like you should buy a different brand of tractor. It'll make you happier.

 

[chickenman]

And you didn't buy a new car. You bought a used 4310. And you have all the known problems. Much like every used car I buy winds up with most of the known problems for that model and year.

Besides, I don't operate my car in a field most of the time. And actually, the car I do operate in a field needs more maintenance than my tractor does to keep it running in top shape. Exposed disc brakes and flexible hydraulic lines in a tractor/farm environment would be a non-starter for most people.

It sounds like you should buy a different brand of tractor. It'll make you happier.

I bought the tractor new, went in asked how much and paid my money, sometime later I bought the manual thinking it covered my tractor, now I find out it doesn't and I have a tractor sitting there while I learn the electrical system and figure out what I'll need to get it moving again.

I have been to the dealer for info several times and have a mountain of paper print outs that still don't cover the electrics on the tractor

anyway I'm close to a solution, bad drive controller but I want to eliminate every other possibility before i spend that kind of money

it appears that i now know the electrical system better than the dealership

 

[dfkrug]

Did you notice any binding inside the housing like Chickenman is describing?

No. Once I got the brake bellcranks off (VERY HARD, see story), and the
axle housings separated, I could easily see that the plates and friction
discs were pristine and barely worn at all. I don't see how they can
lock up or stick together bathed in oil like that, unless left unused for
a long long time. (M/C clutches can stick, but they use many more plates.)

What I did notice is when everything was reassembled, and working very
smoothly, even the weight of components without any springs attached
could cause the brakes to drag. That's why I think that JD added the
ROPS bracket spring as a helper. If the brakes drag just a bit, I noticed
that turning the trans gears by hand was quite a bit harder.

The 4310 added lots of electrics, and lots of challenges, I am sure. I
have never driven the eHydro, or used the ePTO, but JD was sure
trying to innovate.

 

[arrabil]

What I did notice is when everything was reassembled, and working very
smoothly, even the weight of components without any springs attached
could cause the brakes to drag.

You noticed dragging even with the 1" of free play for the rods in the crank slot? I don't have any binding at all now that I've got them adjusted per the tech manual. I only bought new springs because I was already buying the valve adjustment parts. I will consider myself lucky then.

Chickenman, why don't you buy the right manual then? My TM1985 Dec 2002 doesn't split your tractor by serial number like the manual for my 4200 does. Though this website hints at there being a split at 139001. And JD Parts seems to split at 234502 for the controller. Either way, you should be able to get the right manual....

 

[chickenman]

You noticed dragging even with the 1" of free play for the rods in the crank slot? I don't have any binding at all now that I've got them adjusted per the tech manual. I only bought new springs because I was already buying the valve adjustment parts. I will consider myself lucky then.

Chickenman, why don't you buy the right manual then? My TM1985 Dec 2002 doesn't split your tractor by serial number like the manual for my 4200 does. Though this website hints at there being a split at 139001. And JD Parts seems to split at 234502 for the controller. Either way, you should be able to get the right manual....

when I bought it I thought it was the right manual

it was the only one at the time as the manual was behind the on tractor changes

i was not told of any changes

so I want the updates

I want what I thought I was getting, a manual for my tractor

the dealer said they would send in the request to jd but that was a week ago and no word

what does it cost to spin a cd ten cents?