4400HST -- how to install fuel filler door on new hood??

[Mike_S]

Anyone that has replaced a hood on a 4400HST knows that it is a new version requiring a new (GASP) $35 fuel filler door and $8 for two little springs. I spent 2 hours at my dealership with several different personnel and nobody could figure out how to put the two springs on the black rod that makes up part of the hinge and fasten the fuel filler door to the hood.

Surely somebody here has knowledge of how to install that fuel door -- JD is no help -- there are NO directions and four of us could not figure it out.

HELP!!!

Thanks,

Mike_Sp

 

[psdx]

Pictures of the door, the springs and the black rod would be helpful.

 

[dfkrug]

I hear ya, MIKE_S.

I just ordered the new hood, but this time no fuel door. I bought the
older hood for my last 4300 and the hinge, springs, clips, etc. did not
work either. I had to make a custom hinge and spring.

So if I have to make a custom hinge and spring again, to he77 with
the new door. I will adapt my old door, or make a new one.

 

[Egon]

I've had a fuel door sitting in my shop for several years now. Can't figure out how to install it.

 

[Mike_S]

I hear ya, MIKE_S.

I just ordered the new hood, but this time no fuel door. I bought the
older hood for my last 4300 and the hinge, springs, clips, etc. did not
work either. I had to make a custom hinge and spring.

So if I have to make a custom hinge and spring again, to he77 with
the new door. I will adapt my old door, or make a new one.

Looks like you ADAPTED your old door to work fine -- but methinks that the quality of the mounting area on the new hood is so crappy that I don't think I am going to trust two strong little springs actually holding the door without eventually breaking the part of the hood to which they attach, and since I never use the fuel door, think I will lay a bead of clear silicone around the opening and lay the old door into the silicone and save $40 since I don't need it to open.

Thanks

Mike_Sp

 

[dfkrug]

Looks like you ADAPTED your old door to work fine -- but methinks that the quality of the mounting area on the new hood is so crappy that I don't think I am going to trust two strong little springs actually holding the door without eventually breaking the part of the hood to which they attach, and since I never use the fuel door, think I will lay a bead of clear silicone around the opening and lay the old door into the silicone and save $40 since I don't need it to open.

That's not a bad solution.

I have those 2 springs sitting here, unused. I used a single spring and
my own shaft.

The new hoods are supposed to have a different size door, and I am told
my old door will not fit. Arends Bros in IL will sell the new hoods ONLY
with the door, for bunch more. I don't want to pay a second time for
hardware that does not work, either.

 

[Mike_S]

That's not a bad solution.

I have those 2 springs sitting here, unused. I used a single spring and
my own shaft.

The new hoods are supposed to have a different size door, and I am told
my old door will not fit. Arends Bros in IL will sell the new hoods ONLY
with the door, for bunch more. I don't want to pay a second time for
hardware that does not work, either.

The actual size of the original door and the new door appear to be the same, it is the mounting method that causes the issues -- which is why I will settle for putting a bead of silicon around the edge and setting the old door (which fits nicely) into the silicone.

Mike_S.

 

[dfkrug]

The actual size of the original door and the new door appear to be the same....

That is great news. I expect my new hood to arrive any day.

 

[Mike_S]

That is great news. I expect my new hood to arrive any day.

Now some BAD GNUS -- the new hood does NOT correctly fit -- the hole in the hood for the new fuel lid was apparently moved backward about a half inch. There is a ridge around the fuel cap to keep spilled fuel contained and moved to a drain hose. There is also a piece of the fuel hole in the hood that protrudes down about an inch all around the hole. The back of the part that protrudes down from the hood around the fuel hole strikes the middle of the ridge behind the fuel cap preventing the hood from closing--GRRRRRRR.

I see two choices, neither of which I appreciate for about $400 in overpriced plastic, $44 in decals, and the $18 foam rubber gaskets: (A) move the hood forward 1/2 inch which leaves a half inch gap behind the hood which looks like s*** or (B) spend my time AND effort to cut a approx. 4 inch wide portion of the fuel filler hole bottom protrusion away that is hitting the rear ridge behind the fuel cap and try to make it look neat.

This reminded me of the quality control on my first 4400HST -- the steering was engineered wrong on the first models so that in 2WD they tore grass out of the ground when turning during mowing, and then there were the millings left in the transmission housing which, by 50 hours, had destroyed the brakes, hydraulic pump, transmission, etc. JD refused to take that POS back, so I bit the bullet and traded the POS off for another one in a few months (after the bugs were removed that we unpaid beta testers found) that has been superb for 10 years. BUT, I have a long memory and when it came time for a commercial zero turn mower, the JD brand was not even considered.

Maybe your new hood will fit and I happened to get a fluke.

Goodl luck,

Mike_S.

 

[dfkrug]

(B) spend my time AND effort to cut a approx. 4 inch wide portion of the fuel filler hole bottom protrusion away that is hitting the rear ridge behind the fuel cap and try to make it look neat.

Hmmm....this may be the only reasonable choice. I can hardly wait to
see the new hood....

My 4300, BTW, is one of 4 or 5 units that had defective flex plates, which
were replaced by JD. That's the plate betw the HST and the engine. I
had not heard that there were units that came new with oil debris
problems.