wushaw
Elite Member
Here is the web page for the Jordan. Best Brake Controller
4500/5500 series Gmc/Chevy
- Thread starter Robbie Hegwood
- Start date
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OP
Robbie Hegwood
Platinum Member
Thanks for the web site, I will surely check it out. From the other replies I should have more braking in my trailer. It's 6 months old and a 21,000lbs Gwr tralier so it should have decents brakes. I hope a better controller can prove that. I still need a bigger truck but this would let me buy it on my scedule. I have also considered the disc brake option. I will go to the trailer guy next week I get his opinions and what brands they carry and compare to the brands ya'll recommend. Does it sound like I have a poor brake controller to ya'll? Let me know. Robbie
ScottAR
Veteran Member
wushaw
Elite Member
Well I personally feel trailer brakes are more for stabilization to keep trailer from jack knifing and to help slow the load. My reasons for this is braking action in ft of the load has more stopping power than brakes basically pulling it to a stop...ever use just the ft brake on a bicycle
Also look at a class 8 truck that has six brakes on the truck, does anyone really think it takes six brakes just to stop say a 17k truck... oh and them drums are huge and if it has disk on the ft the calipers look like horseshoes strapped on.
My Pete is a class 7 truck and the Fl-60 I had was a class 6, the first time I applied a little too much brake on the FL it literally put me into the seatbelt..needless to say I was a little suprised how well them big airbrake systems really work (the look on my now ex-wifes face was priceless)
The only comparison of the difference between a one ton(dually) and my Pete is a dump trailer that I am half owner of with @ the same load 20K it is night and day in stopping it and handling.
You can try a better brake controller, disk brakes on the trailer and see how you like it...it is cheaper than going with a dedicated MDT hauler.
Also look at a class 8 truck that has six brakes on the truck, does anyone really think it takes six brakes just to stop say a 17k truck... oh and them drums are huge and if it has disk on the ft the calipers look like horseshoes strapped on.
My Pete is a class 7 truck and the Fl-60 I had was a class 6, the first time I applied a little too much brake on the FL it literally put me into the seatbelt..needless to say I was a little suprised how well them big airbrake systems really work (the look on my now ex-wifes face was priceless)
The only comparison of the difference between a one ton(dually) and my Pete is a dump trailer that I am half owner of with @ the same load 20K it is night and day in stopping it and handling.
You can try a better brake controller, disk brakes on the trailer and see how you like it...it is cheaper than going with a dedicated MDT hauler.
OP
Robbie Hegwood
Platinum Member
Again, excellent info Wushaw. I have a class B CDL and driven trucks on and off for 15 years and am very familiar with air brakes and they are the best by far. I've even driven a tandem axle split axle 28' straight truck that was a beast. But I have never dealt with a truck of that nature pulling a trailer of any sort so your experience is great. A FL would definantly last longer so that sounds like the proper direction. I do believe I have also seen the opisite with a F750 pulling about 28,000lbs on a goose tandem that sheered the ball at the shank, luckily the truck was big enough and driver very aware to get it all stopped safely. I am definitly after a better controller first, my brakes checked for adjustment second, with disk being a backup. While I've got you I was also thinking about a programmer set on economy/towing. My ford dealer/mech. said the head gaskets of 04's will not handle any more pressure/boost and advised against. Do you think he's just being conservative or has this been a problem? I'm not looking to set any H.P. records just mpg out of this deal. Thanks Robbie
Renze
Elite Member
So, when its admitted that air brakes are superior, the main reason behind electric brakes is the law of economics ??
wushaw
Elite Member
Robbie Hegwood said:
I have also heard this on the stock 6.0, they do make an upgrade head bolts but $$$$ is it worth it???
You mention the F750, when you get into F650 and up they are alot different than the F450/550 where as frames bigger air brakes, tranny choices, engine choices like Cat or Cummins...more options.
OP
Robbie Hegwood
Platinum Member
Hey Wushaw, Good news, I called the shop that put my hitch in to discuss my problems and he strongly feels they just need adjusting [trailer brakes]. From the total weight towed I gave him he recommended every 6 months and it has been that. I think that sounds right for someone had already mentioned having that done in this thread. It was also a reasonable price of 30-40$. He said while it was there he would check the brake controller for proper operation and we could go from there.
Now you are absolutely correct about F-650 and up. They are bad boys. I was originally looking at a F-650 with a 300 H.P. cat, air brakes and a hauler body, and a crew cab. But at 65,000$ I could buy 3 trucks like I did for that, It is hard to justify that much difference. I'll keep my eyes out and maybe i can find a good deal on a medium duty of some sort.
I do believe I will just let my PSD do what it can and not blow it up with a chip. However there is an aftermarket elbow that replaces the stock elbow on the intercooler piping that will give 10 H.P. and 20 Lbs torque and supposedly 1-2 mpg that I would like to try. It cost 180.00$. Not to bad and doesn't change boost or anything just improves flow. They feature it in the newest diesel mag. Robbie
Now you are absolutely correct about F-650 and up. They are bad boys. I was originally looking at a F-650 with a 300 H.P. cat, air brakes and a hauler body, and a crew cab. But at 65,000$ I could buy 3 trucks like I did for that, It is hard to justify that much difference. I'll keep my eyes out and maybe i can find a good deal on a medium duty of some sort.
I do believe I will just let my PSD do what it can and not blow it up with a chip. However there is an aftermarket elbow that replaces the stock elbow on the intercooler piping that will give 10 H.P. and 20 Lbs torque and supposedly 1-2 mpg that I would like to try. It cost 180.00$. Not to bad and doesn't change boost or anything just improves flow. They feature it in the newest diesel mag. Robbie
ScottAR
Veteran Member
More along the lines of availablity. I don't know of any air brake conversions available in the states for small dual wheel trucks. To a lesser extent, I don't know of any air brake kits that won't void the factory warranty.
(My truck is out of warranty already but many have newer trucks than I)
(My truck is out of warranty already but many have newer trucks than I)
Renze
Elite Member
At our company we mount an electric drive compressor, which means that we dont have to mess with engine mounts or pulleys etcetera... (On the old models MB Sprinter, the air brakes pump was mounted on the same factory mounted airconditioning compressor support, which used to break from the pulsing action of the added piston compressor.)
When we show Daimler-Chrysler Netherlands homologation department what we are doing, we get a type approval and the warranty is covered.
If there is any company in your region that does these conversions, they should be able to tell you about the warranty, or else you should contact the local homologation department of the manufacturer.
If the compressor is electric, the only vehicle modification is that you'd have to cut the hydraulic brake lines and install a brake valve.
Any work done by a factory dealer is covered under warranty.
So it might be an idea to have the dealer install this valve in the brake lines.
When we show Daimler-Chrysler Netherlands homologation department what we are doing, we get a type approval and the warranty is covered.
If there is any company in your region that does these conversions, they should be able to tell you about the warranty, or else you should contact the local homologation department of the manufacturer.
If the compressor is electric, the only vehicle modification is that you'd have to cut the hydraulic brake lines and install a brake valve.
Any work done by a factory dealer is covered under warranty.
So it might be an idea to have the dealer install this valve in the brake lines.
