4530 BREAKING EVERYTHING

[cdover73]

I have been using my tractor more and more lately trying to clear out around my pond and other medium duty work. The problem is, everything I hook to is getting bent to heck and back. It started with my boom pole. I was trying move a stump we dug up. It didn't have much dirt on the roots and the tree was only about 12" before we cut it. I figure it weighed around 300 - 400 lbs, but as soon as I lifted it the pole bent like a pretzel.
Next came the box blade. I have posted earlier about it bending at the top of the mast under light work. This time it was beyond bent. I ended up using the jaws-of-life from our rescue unit to open the mast back up, which worked surprisingly well plus I didn't have to heat anything. Once it was straight, I cut a piece of 3/8" plate to fit the front of the mast and used it to box in the framework. It shouldn't bend anymore, at least in that area.
I also bent my drawbar trying to finish the stump pulling (the stumps were already out of the ground, we used a trackhoe for that).
My boom pole was a freebie with my tractor (ie. cheap), and the box is a Bush Hog SBX 720.
I understand the theory that wou want the equipment to be the weak link if anything is to break, not the tractor. I also baby the tractor to an extent. I don't want ya'll to think I am using it for a log skidder (even thoug I am pulling stumps)! In my opinion, I don't use it nearly hard enough to cause damage. However, I can't understand why this keeps happening. Is the tractor too much for the equipment I have? I told the dealer to equip it with the heaviest implements they had, and the 4530 is only 45hp. Also, this isn't my first tractor. I was raised on farm equipment and I know when something is being abused. I don't abuse my stuff, so why can't I keep anything behind the tractor without it tearing up? If I am told one more time to lighten up I will scream! I don't use it hard enough to have to lighten up. If this keeps up, I may as well stay off my tractor or go broke upgrading to heavier impements.
I will try to post some pics of the equipment and repairs later this week.

 

[rback33]

I must say I was concerned about where this thread might go. I am glad you are not tearing up the loader. I would love to see some pics of the carnage before I form a wrong opinion...

 

[cdover73]

I didn't opt for the loader since I have unlimited access to heavy equipment. Good thing because this post may have went the way you were thinking!

Here are the older pics of my box when it bent the first time.

 

[Dargo]

The Bush Hog SBX series is a light duty box blade and is only rated up to a max of 35 hp if the tractor is four wheel drive. See here: Bush Hog SBX Series Box Blades

It shows your box blade at 72" with a weight of 550 pounds. I have a very old 72" box blade that weighs right at 1000 pounds. If your tractor is 4X4, you likely need a medium duty blade.

I don't even have a boom pole anymore because I always bent it. They are generally very light duty. Otherwise, it would take two men to pick it up. The only thing that sounds really odd is bending the drawbar. I've used tractors with several hundred hp and never bent a drawbar. Something sounds wrong there.

 

[knute_m]

Last week I got a pretty good deal on a "two piece" King Kutter TRB-72-Y 6-foot rear blade. The fellow I bought it from had ripped the blade assembly completely off the frame. He broke all three welds and tore the 3/8-inch plate that holds the blade assembly to the frame. The welds are 3/8-inch plate welded to 3/8-inch round and square stock. He was using it with about a 45 hp 4WD John Deere. Welded back together, it should last forever with my 20 hp 4WD tractor.

He replaced it with a really heavy duty John Deere blade.

Laying in his shed was a CAT 1 drawbar that was bent. He was using it with a chain to pull stumps. He also had a pretty hefty dirt scoop that was all twisted out of shape.

He had previously been using these implements with a Ford 8-N.

Since I believe your tractor can use both CAT 1 and CAT 2 implements, I think I'd look hard at only using CAT 2 implements. Also, I think that would qualify as "heavying up" not lightening up -- so please don't scream!

Good luck,
Knute

 

[Egon]

You know, we have the same problem. My Kubota B7100 has broken the rear blade mount where it swivels and my drawbar got all bent up pulling rocks around.

 

[DavesTractor]

When you say drawbar, do you mean the part attached under the back of the tractor, or a bar you have put between the lower three-point arms?

The 4530 is a heavy beast. It weighs what some 70HP tractors weigh, hence the problem. Traction is an awesome thing.

 

[jwcinpk]

Yeah it's the weight thing too. When something weighs what these tractors do it just breaks stuff. I broke the wheel off my IMC 7ft cutter just backing into a small ditch. You need heavy duty stuff with these tractors. I bent a drawbar with a Ford Jubilee so it happens with all tractors.

 

[Keith_B]

I assume you are talking about the drawbard for the 3PH, and not the swinging drawbard (aka bellybar in these parts). Those are easy to bend, especially if your bar is undresized for your tractor. Cat 1 bars can be heavy duty, or medium duty. Sounds like you need a thicker bar.

 

[DavesTractor]

I agree, use a Cat II 3ph drawbar, and don't pull stumps using the 3-point drawbar. This is a recipe for a rear rollover if it is raised above the centerline of the rear axle.

 

[cdover73]

I am still working on the pics. I should have them to post tomorrow. I appreciate the replies and I am getting about what I was expecting. Thank you for not bashing me or making me look like I don't know what I am working with. I understand the tractor's abilities, but I am confused that my dealer sold me "heavy duty" implements that won't hold up to my tractor. I have done lots of research since my purchase, including the manufacturers sites and the specs for my box does say it is a heavy duty design, but only up to 35 hp on a 4wd. The 4530 is rated at 42.5 engine and 34 pto hp. I guess this means I should have researched before I bought! Also, after looking at what my dealer had on the lot, my implements were the heaviest there, so I guess I should have been more specific and had them order heavier.
The drawbar I was referring to is the one for the 3PH. It is a Cat I and is about 1 1/8" thick with holes drilled across it. It bent while pulling a rather large stump to the burn pile. The stump was already out of the ground and I had a chain hooked to it. As a note, I always worry about rollovers, probably to the point of being too scared to operate in some eyes. I hate working inclines where the tractor is side loaded more than anything.
I think the box will hold up better now that I reinforced it. As far as the tractor, I rarely work it at full power, so with throttling back and taking it easy, maybe I can spare some of the equipment.
And no, knute_m, I'm not screaming yet! I was referring to the lectures I get from my dad when he tells me to take it easier on the equipment by not running the tractor as hard - hence 'lightening up'. As I said, if I ran it any more cautiously, I may as well have bought a Murray riding mower! I guess the results speak well for Mahindra. These machines are built well and if you don't have enough beef on the equipment, it simply won't hold up to the power. I have always said the rated power is way under what is actually there.

 

[jwcinpk]

Sometimes when buying implements you're better off to go around to a bunch of dealers and inspect yourself. Heavy duty to one mfg is light duty to another. Look for things with heavy steel at the hitch points.
When i went to buy a brush hog I looked at the bush hog brand and it just didn't look as heavy duty as the IMC I bought, but was much more $.

 

[cdover73]

Thanks alot, jwcinpk! I got the Bush Hog 286 cutter! Talk about kicking myself in the ... anyway I got the pics. Don't worry about the metal overhang and the gorilla welds, I plan to clean all that up with a torch and grinder then repainting everything. The spacer in the bottom holes of the box mast is made from a stack of 3/4" stainless washers welded together. A normal bushing didn't have enough surface area for me. In fact, the box didn't come with this bushing at all which is what I blame some of the bending on. The piece of 2" x 3" plate on the back of the mast is just sitting there and not part of the repair.
The boom pole is self explanatary. The draw bar is still bent after trying to straighten it, which you can see the heat marks where the grey lines are (4 total). I will scrap the drawbar and buy a new one.
I used the box a little while yesterday evening to see if would hold and it worked great. No flex that I could tell, even when I purposely eased into a stump to see if it would bend. I know, I know, but it's the only way to assure myself it will hold so I don't have to go buy a heavier one. If it is going to bend again I want to know now.

 

[dbelisle]

Whew , For a moment I thought you where going to say everything was breaking on the tractor . I have been looking hardcore at the 4530. I looks like a lot of machine for the buck.

I have a 2810HST and other than some electrcial problems it has been a great machine.

I guess I will keep looking at the 4530.

Dave in NH

 

[Keith_B]

Looking at the drawbar it appears you have not been using a clevis to connect the chain to the drawbar. A drawbar has very little stength if it is flipped up on edge, as appears to have been the case with the drawbar in the pics. A clevis allows you to utilize the strength of the drawbar's width.

 

[asdf]

I bent the same type bar with my 4110 and didn't realize when I'd done it. At the time I was surprised that a bar would bend like that, thinking it was really tough. Now I'm glad to know I wasn't as hard on it as I thought. I've only had a tractor for a year this month and still getting used to it.

 

[DavesTractor]

Looking at the drawbar it appears you have not been using a clevis to connect the chain to the drawbar. A drawbar has very little stength if it is flipped up on edge, as appears to have been the case with the drawbar in the pics. A clevis allows you to utilize the strength of the drawbar's width.

Keith, I think you just educated a lot of people. Seems obvious once you mention it.