jenkinsph
Super Star Member
The reason I asked about the drive train specifically is because the transmission pump as I understand it provides the oil for the transmission at low pressure and also provides a low pressure charge supply to the main pump on the front crankshaft.
Two scenarios,
If the rockshaft, steering and remotes ports stop working and the transmisssion continues to shift then it is likely to be the main pump.
If everything fails including transmission shifting then it is likely to be the transmission pump.
The transmission pump is the cheaper of the two by far.
You can rebuild a worn mainpump with a kit from Deere
If you have a way to lift the rear cover and seat off the tractor changing the hydraulic pump is fairly simple. Likewise removing the main pump is easy enough and the way the piston assemblies are assembled from the outside similar to a radial engine makes it easier to rebuild too.
Before disassembling the above I would first remove the stroke control assembly from the bottom of the hydraulic pump as I mentioned in the earlier post. This is a quick job with the right sockets and will allow you to check the filter screen on the pump.
I bought a very nice 4020 in 1978 which the new dealer's mechanic failed to fix for $4200 after a few days of searching and diagnosis I found the screen on the stroke control to be the problem. At that time it was a $15 fix, I was happy but the dealer/owner wasn't.
Two scenarios,
If the rockshaft, steering and remotes ports stop working and the transmisssion continues to shift then it is likely to be the main pump.
If everything fails including transmission shifting then it is likely to be the transmission pump.
The transmission pump is the cheaper of the two by far.
You can rebuild a worn mainpump with a kit from Deere
If you have a way to lift the rear cover and seat off the tractor changing the hydraulic pump is fairly simple. Likewise removing the main pump is easy enough and the way the piston assemblies are assembled from the outside similar to a radial engine makes it easier to rebuild too.
Before disassembling the above I would first remove the stroke control assembly from the bottom of the hydraulic pump as I mentioned in the earlier post. This is a quick job with the right sockets and will allow you to check the filter screen on the pump.
I bought a very nice 4020 in 1978 which the new dealer's mechanic failed to fix for $4200 after a few days of searching and diagnosis I found the screen on the stroke control to be the problem. At that time it was a $15 fix, I was happy but the dealer/owner wasn't.