4720 Hydraulic issues

Red Horse · Aug 14, 2013

Whenever I have a heavy load on my 400X loader, raising/lowering while trying to "slip" the bucket control is difficult whenever I am handling a heavy load. Anyone have any clue? Obvious question-am I experienced? Yes.

Also, can anyone tell me what this plug is? It is rear of the trans drain plug and to the right side of the machine looking rearward.

arlen4720 · Aug 15, 2013

My open station works OK, I mean it's a little sensitive, but I got used to it, and can "feather" it smoothly. I think the cab models have a cable, as opposed to the linkage that the open stations have. The cable may be a little more prone to jumpiness. Maybe you could try lubing everything up.
The plug is for the transmission heater (I think).

Danscaper · Aug 15, 2013

Are you having hydraulic issues or loader joystick issues. If your talking about feathering issues with the joystick, it's because you have cables going from the joystick to the control valve. You can lubricate those if you want. You will have to drill a tiny hole at the top of the cables sheath. Then get some blunt tip syringes and inject motor oil into them

Red Horse · Aug 15, 2013

Thx guys- never gave the cable issue a thought. What about frequent shots of WD-40?? Manual I do believe says nothing about that. then again Manual says 9.6 gals of hydraulic for the full 500 hour service. With loader off machine, and new spin on plus dropping the two inline screens I put 9.6 in without ever checking stick-bottom line, I ended taking about 3 quarts out to get to correct fill mark on stick

Danscaper · Aug 15, 2013

Red Horse said:
Thx guys- never gave the cable issue a thought. What about frequent shots of WD-40?? Manual I do believe says nothing about that. then again Manual says 9.6 gals of hydraulic for the full 500 hour service. With loader off machine, and new spin on plus dropping the two inline screens I put 9.6 in without ever checking stick-bottom line, I ended taking about 3 quarts out to get to correct fill mark on stick

The problem with wd40 is that there is no way to get the fluid into the sheath. I have removed the access panel by the loader control and this cables are sealed to the point where you can get absolutely no wd40 into them. The cables are like 3 foot long a piece. You have to drill into the metal part of the cables. Just a very tiny hole big enough to fit a syringe into. I already drilled the holes myself but have not injected them yet. I just got a ten pa k of syringes off eBay. Motor oil is the best thing to use for longevity and its what they use for clutch cables for this issue. If it is something you want to try, shoot me a message and ill send you a couple syringes.

Red Horse · Aug 17, 2013

Danscaper said:
The problem with wd40 is that there is no way to get the fluid into the sheath. I have removed the access panel by the loader control and this cables are sealed to the point where you can get absolutely no wd40 into them. The cables are like 3 foot long a piece. You have to drill into the metal part of the cables. Just a very tiny hole big enough to fit a syringe into. I already drilled the holes myself but have not injected them yet. I just got a ten pa k of syringes off eBay. Motor oil is the best thing to use for longevity and its what they use for clutch cables for this issue. If it is something you want to try, shoot me a message and ill send you a couple syringes.

DS
Thx for the comment.. I actually have a needle dispenser for fine machine oil. Also I've never looked at the attachment points on these cables. If they are easily accessible (fat chance) what would you think of plugging a 3' piece of 3/4 pipe-pvc whatever and soaking them in 10w?
Bob

Danscaper · Aug 17, 2013

Red Horse said:
DS
Thx for the comment.. I actually have a needle dispenser for fine machine oil. Also I've never looked at the attachment points on these cables. If they are easily accessible (fat chance) what would you think of plugging a 3' piece of 3/4 pipe-pvc whatever and soaking them in 10w?
Bob

honestly, that sounds like a fine idea!. The job would be very very easy to do to remove the cables. Just remove the wheel on the right side for easier access. I may do this

Red Horse · Aug 17, 2013

Danscaper said:
honestly, that sounds like a fine idea!. The job would be very very easy to do to remove the cables. Just remove the wheel on the right side for easier access. I may do this

Thx DS I will keep you posted

Red Horse · Aug 21, 2013

Well I chickened out on disconnecting the cables. But what I did do was remove the boot and literally flooded the "cup" that the cables originate in. Did have a need today to move some granite steps about 7' long (old curb stones) and it did seem to function better. I will keep "dosing" it sand see if things improve.

Danscaper · Aug 21, 2013

I chickened out too. I have the holes drilled but did not inject. My fear is that I will always have to oil. I tried shooting the cups too but just seems sealed too much and couldn't get musch to come out. You want to see fluid coming out the other end. Let us know if it keeps loosening up as you do it

Red Horse · Oct 13, 2013

Well guys, here we are a couple of months after I started this thread and I have to say, I believe my controls have loosened up a bit to the point that "feathering" both the boom and bucket controls is a bit easier.

To repeat, what I did over a month ago was pull the rubber boot over the loader control stick and give the cable a heavy dose of WD-40 where it comes out of the plastic "cup". I think that sooner or later that stuff has penetrated the cable.

jenkinsph · Oct 14, 2013

I would doubt you could spray wd 40 under the joystick boot and get it to the cable. At any rate glad it is working better for you now.

Red Horse · Oct 14, 2013

jenkinsph said:
I would doubt you could spray wd 40 under the joystick boot and get it to the cable. At any rate glad it is working better for you now.

To Clarify, I pulled the boot off. This exposes the linkage where the rod connects to the cable. I sprayed the **** out of that connection. I will take a picture. I must admit, I'm not handling same weights I was a couple of months ago when I first started complaining (using forks to off load antique stationary engines from truck bed height) but I have been handling old granite curbing (with forks and with Wildkat 48) and it has been working much smoother.

Gator6x4 · Oct 14, 2013

I like to use the Chain and Cable lube from NAPA. Pricey but good, weatherproof somewhat also.

NAPA AUTO PARTS

Red Horse · Oct 14, 2013

Gator6x4 said:
I like to use the Chain and Cable lube from NAPA. Pricey but good, weatherproof somewhat also.

NAPA AUTO PARTS

Thx- is it light weight? If not it won't penetrate the sheath at the end of the casble-keep in mind you can't really get at the cable-its a pretty tight assembly.