4720 Hydraulic issues

[Red Horse]

Well guys, here we are a couple of months after I started this thread and I have to say, I believe my controls have loosened up a bit to the point that "feathering" both the boom and bucket controls is a bit easier.

To repeat, what I did over a month ago was pull the rubber boot over the loader control stick and give the cable a heavy dose of WD-40 where it comes out of the plastic "cup". I think that sooner or later that stuff has penetrated the cable.

 

[jenkinsph]

I would doubt you could spray wd 40 under the joystick boot and get it to the cable. At any rate glad it is working better for you now.

 

[Red Horse]

I would doubt you could spray wd 40 under the joystick boot and get it to the cable. At any rate glad it is working better for you now.

To Clarify, I pulled the boot off. This exposes the linkage where the rod connects to the cable. I sprayed the **** out of that connection. I will take a picture. I must admit, I'm not handling same weights I was a couple of months ago when I first started complaining (using forks to off load antique stationary engines from truck bed height) but I have been handling old granite curbing (with forks and with Wildkat 48) and it has been working much smoother.

 

[Gator6x4]

I like to use the Chain and Cable lube from NAPA. Pricey but good, weatherproof somewhat also.

NAPA AUTO PARTS

 

[Red Horse]

I like to use the Chain and Cable lube from NAPA. Pricey but good, weatherproof somewhat also.

NAPA AUTO PARTS

Thx- is it light weight? If not it won't penetrate the sheath at the end of the casble-keep in mind you can't really get at the cable-its a pretty tight assembly.

 

[jenkinsph]

If you wan't to try a thin or light lubricant you might try some of the wire lubricant for mig welding wire. About the same weight as lighter fluid.

 

[94BULLITT]

I like Blaster Garage door lube for throttle and choke cables and door hinges. I am not sure if it will work for your application.

Garage Door Lube