48 8n wont start- Help

[RustyA]

This is the reason the following terms are used . ...No Crank-starter will not turn engine over.
No Start-engine turns over fine but will not run.
Bad points may cause a no-start condition but will not cause a no-crank event.

 

[gstrom99]

There's two threads for this (continuing?) issue. They should be merged, or one deleted.

 

[presta24]

There's two threads for this (continuing?) issue. They should be merged, or one deleted.

I deleted the other. Didn't remember that I had already posted on this forum

 

[ROUSTABOUT]

Actually, if you are in a pinch, you can use a regular solenoid but you must NOT bolt the case to metal but Plastic or some other insulator. Where it’s bolted to the insulator, also attach the wire from the push button.

The normal start wire just goes to 12v+. So when the button is pushed the case is grounded and activates the solenoid.


Looks like this. The blue wire going to button and the only way the solenoid is grounded. The little red wire on the starter side goes to the coil, giving it full 12 volts when cranking.View attachment 759828
It looks like it’s bolted to the starter but it’s isolated by 1/2” plastic.

If you get it cranking and want an easy way to clean the points, this method has saved me a lot of time, on the front mount ones.

I do fid it odd that our ‘52 side mount distributor never has points issues but you can almost count on the ‘48 not starting if you have let it sit for a few months.

Yeah the points short to the circlip spring.

 

[jwmorris]

If it was the points, would it do anything at all? Because nothing happens when I press the button

Yes, it would just turn over and over cranking but not starting. Like you ran out of fuel but you just don’t have fire.

If it won’t turn over at all you would go in a different direction.

Is the engine locked up?

Is your battery dead?

Are the + & - connections clean and corrosion free on both ends?

Is the button sending ground signal when depressed?

Is power making it to the starter?

You could put a jumper cable directly from the battery to the + post on the starter (make dam sure your in neutral so you don’t drive over yourself as you are bypassing a safety device) and see if it cranks. If the battery is good and it won’t crank like that the starter itself is dead (assuming the engine isn’t locked up).

 

[presta24]

Yes, it would just turn over and over cranking but not starting. Like you ran out of fuel but you just don’t have fire.

If it won’t turn over at all you would go in a different direction.

Is the engine locked up?

Is your battery dead?

Are the + & - connections clean and corrosion free on both ends?

Is the button sending ground signal when depressed?

Is power making it to the starter?

You could put a jumper cable directly from the battery to the + post on the starter (make dam sure your in neutral so you don’t drive over yourself as you are bypassing a safety device) and see if it cranks. If the battery is good and it won’t crank like that the starter itself is dead (assuming the engine isn’t locked up).

I was able to turn it over by bypassing the solenoid with a set of jumper cables and a spare 12v batt I have. Going today to buy a new battery. The old one was on a charger over night, still drawing 10amps this am. Guessing its toast? The day of the issue it started on its own with the current battery. We'll see if she starts with a new one.

 

[jwmorris]

Yeah, batteries always work, until they don’t.

However, if it cranked completely bypassed. Now, you need to (again, making sure it’s in neutral first and last) ground the solenoid where the wire from the push button attaches and the other end to ground.

If it doesn’t crank, your solenoid is the problem.

If it does, the ground signal isn’t going from the push button or you are trying to crank it in gear and you can’t do that, they didn‘t want people driving over themselves. If they hit the starter button while off the machine. Kind of like “butt switches“ on new tractors but reliable because it’s mechanical and not electronic.

 

[presta24]

Found the fix

The positive battery cable was bad. Well, at least the terminal. It was pretty marred up on the inside of the eye. Wasn't making a good connection. Cut it off and put a new one on. The ol girl sputtered to life just fine. After sitting for almost a yr. Have to love the reliability of these old tractors. I remember by dad telling me years ago a buddy of his tried to jump it off a 12v running vehicle. Maybe that deformed the terminal?

Gave her some love and an oil change. Topped off the coolant. Now to just figure out what I am going to do about lights. The tractor hasn't had working lights since its been in the family.

 

[John0829]

Glad you got it running, these old tractors are stupid simple to work on. Getting lights, no sweat.

 

[presta24]

Glad you got it running, these old tractors are stupid simple to work on. Getting lights, no sweat.

I went with 12v LED headlights and a step up converter to run them. Was cheaper than any 6v options I saw out there.