49 8N runs good after warmed up dont

[joey44]

Ok I have a 49 8n 6 volt it starts and runs great but when under load or after awhile it shuts off. It starts back up with little problem. But wont run long you put it in gear and it dies. It seem to do this after it is warmed up. I have cleaned the fuel system, new filters drained tank, HTe gas is flowing out of the carb right after it happens. I also changed plugs and wires, it worked a little longer and thought it was fixed, but after 4 hours, it died and my wife had to push it down the hill. (good thing not up hill)I have cleaned the electric contacts bypassed the starter switch and key. I take the battery home with me and was told that it could be the polarity issue so lately i tryed to repolarize it still not working.

soundguy i think you gave me advise on this last month or so in another forum, I cant get back into that one. I tried most the things that people suggested in the field with minimal tools, so I have brought her home gave her a bath and now it is time to fix her. any advise would help she is just thirty feet from me now so I can work quik and get back on with new questions. Thank in advance. Todd

 

[windy acers]

Same happened to me.Then I replaced the after market coil with a ford brand problem solved. There are 6 and 12 volt front mount coils.

 

[Travelover]

When I was a kid I worked in a lawn equipment shop. We had an old coil tester that would basically fire the coil until it got good and hot and if it was bad, it would quit. If you have an old time electrical shop around that might be able to test it for you. Otherwise, you can try a new coil.

 

[CT230wi]

I also have a 49 8N and had the exact same issues a couple of years ago. In general agreement with the previous two posts, it was a new coil that fixed it for me. Your troubleshooting steps are exactly what I went through too.

Regards.....

 

[Soundguy]

polarity is rarely an issue.

at point of stall, check spark.

also.. do you still have the oem dash mounted ballast resistor in line to the coil back behind the dash?

without it the coil will overheat and become thermally damaged.. not to mention it's hard on the breaker contacts..

soundguy

 

[joey44]

I had a few other things to do today and didnt get around to much of the tractor. Soundguy it has a voltage reg on the right side and a small coil thing with several wires going to it on the left side just above the light switch. My guess is that is the resistor that your asking about. It looks like it is from 1949 could that go bad? it has a main yellow wire and the starter wires and an amp gauge wire going to it.

 

[Soundguy]

it could be bypassed, if that's what you mean by bad. ( that that will kill coils and points )

or it could have dirty connections and that will kill spark as well... heat goes up from bad connection.. resistance goes up.. current goes down.. spark gets weak..

soundguy

 

[joey44]

Sound guy, You have been a great help so far. So for the last three weeks this is what I did. New coil, points, cap, rotor, new wire harness, recleaned the fuel (tank,lines filters) recleaned all the electrical connections, set the timing from the book, fixed the maifold leak on the exhaust, oil/filter change, colling cleaned and flushed and while I waited for a new water pump painted it (just because I was bored) It started right up. wife was amazed at how it sounded.took it for a spin around the block (twice) ran great till the second time, started to stall, oil presure dropped from 35 to below 20, volts stayed at 9 had to open the choke to get it back home ran better with the choke pulled out alittle bit, held it out about 1/4, OK so i am thinking distributer??? or Carb adjustment? maybe? I put it in the garage and read more of the book govenor? maybe, The old rotor was burned, points not bad thought I had it fixed but same problem, just looks better, what ever you can think of would help. It is almost like it goes out of time or losses air to the carb thanks again for any help you can give Todd

 

[Soundguy]

are you still using the oem dash resistor.

also.. volts at 9? that's too high.. volts should be at 7.2

or did you mean AMPS.. that tractor came with an ammeter.. not a volt meter.

low oil pressure could be the low rpm due to wanting to stall. if oil pressure stays low when rpms are high.. that's not good.. drastic drops like that can .. ie.. 35 to 20 INSTANTLY can be things like spun bearings.

 

[joey44]

Yes I meant amps at 9, there is no flutter it stays right there till it shuts down it is like you turn the key off. Yes it is the same oem resistor. I cleaned it up it looks fine. The oil presure starts out above 30 and slowly goes down as it warms up, sits at about 20 but then as it stalls it starts to drop dont know if it because it is stalling or thats the reason it is stalling. The carb seems to be starved of air. I have to keep the choke alittle open tonight to keep it running. Tonight I checked the presure in the pistons all were about 100 lbs I rechecked the points and timing, its dead on. Cleaned the plugs. The only thing electrical not changed is the resistor and the voltage regulator. I am down to the Carb, resistor and voltage regulator. How about the govenor (what does that do) The spring feels fine and seems to be the right tention. Thank you very much for you help. I am stupid when it comes to this and the book i have dont answer all my thoughts on what could be wrong. Todd