4-in-1 4in1??

horsnaround · Mar 4, 2008

Redbug said:
Horse,

What brand of 4in1 did you order? Are you getting a toothbar with it? Are you going with the Kubota valve or other brand valve to operate it...or operate it off a remote?
What else with the tractor? Any other attachments? We neeeeed toooooo know!!

Redbug,

I ordered a WR Long 4-in-1, it doesn't have a toothbar on it. I believe my dealer is installing an aftermarket valve on it. I also believe it is attached to remotes (the dealer said I could disconnect easily. I also ordered a 6 ft Landpride Rotarty Cutter and a 6 ft Landpride Box Blade.

Once I pick it up I will take pictures!

Redbug · Mar 4, 2008

Hi Horse,

If you haven't already, I would recommend getting the WR Long valve and kit to go along with your bucket. Also, if you do decide to get a toothbar in the future...I would recommend the WR Long flat toothbar type. I have one and really like it. It is perfectly flat under the bucket, (the teeth do not poke down below the bucket edge like other toothbars), which means you can backdrag for a smooth surface, and not gouge the surface.

Tooth Bars TB, STB, and ITB
Valve Kits

You are getting good quality attachments with Landpride. A little more money...and well worth it in the long run! Good choices.

CDsdad · Mar 4, 2008

Could somebody educate an ignorant man, please? Does a 4in1 work off the existing bucket control? I would assume you would have to add valves and hoses as I've seen on here for the extra operation of the grip. I need it simple now, county terms, please.

And I've never seen one except on here, I will look around to see if anybody around has one.

DreaminGreen · Mar 4, 2008

CDsdad said:
Could somebody educate an ignorant man, please? Does a 4in1 work off the existing bucket control? I would assume you would have to add valves and hoses as I've seen on here for the extra operation of the grip. I need it simple now, county terms, please.

And I've never seen one except on here, I will look around to see if anybody around has one.

On my machine seperate handle and valve and more hoses. some units have electric valves that run off buttons on the loader control handle (NICE).

Redbug · Mar 4, 2008

Hi CD,

The easiest, (although not the cheapest), method to open and close the bucket jaws is with a valve and grip like what you mentioned. The grip, (joystick), has a toggle switch added for the bucket to open/close. (See the link I posted above that says "valve kits"). Another method is to connect to a remote hydraulic connector, (rear, or other remote), that has a handle/switch or some other way to control the hydraulic flow to the cylinders that open and close the bucket. You can also use what is called a "diverter" which uses the loader valve you already have on the tractor. It "diverts" the flow from a portion of valve operation to the use of the 4in1. When you are using it, the loader valve will not have all of it's operation, since that portion is being used for another use.

Either way it's done, you need a set of hoses to go to the 4in1 bucket cylinders, (open/close), and a valve of some sort to control the hyd flow into the cylinders. Some of the other folks may have a better way of showing or knowing how it's done...

Here's a link of some 4in1 pics...from WR Long's website...

Photo Gallery

dfkrug · Mar 4, 2008

CDsdad said:
Could somebody educate an ignorant man, please? Does a 4in1 work off the existing bucket control? I would assume you would have to add valves and hoses as I've seen on here for the extra operation of the grip. I need it simple now, county terms, please.

I am not sure what "county terms" are, but here goes:

There are only two ways to control the additional pair of cylinders that
a 4in1 bucket has. One is add a lever-operated spool valve to the hydraulic
circuit. The other is to steal hydraulic power from an existing valve using an
electric solenoid-operated diverter. The switch for the diverter is often on
your FEL joystick and it steals flow from your FEL bucket curl work ports.
The cleanest installations put the diverter block on a front part of the FEL
boom, which avoids the need to run more hoses all the way back to the
FEL valve. The first approach has longer hoses. Some diverter setups
are installed near the FEL valve.

The 2 issues I see with the diverter approach are that the curl and
open/close can not be operated at the same time. And second, I can add
another valve with pwr beyond for $75 and hoses, while I have yet to
find a diverter block for less than twice that cost. Still looking.

CDsdad · Mar 5, 2008

Thanks, guys. I got it now.

horsnaround · Mar 5, 2008

I will look into the toothbar. I believe the dealer is installing the WR Long valve, but I'm not 100% sure. I should hear from the dealer today if my loader has made it in, I'll ask then.

Thanks again for all the suggestions.

Redbug said:
Hi Horse,

If you haven't already, I would recommend getting the WR Long valve and kit to go along with your bucket. Also, if you do decide to get a toothbar in the future...I would recommend the WR Long flat toothbar type. I have one and really like it. It is perfectly flat under the bucket, (the teeth do not poke down below the bucket edge like other toothbars), which means you can backdrag for a smooth surface, and not gouge the surface.

Tooth Bars TB, STB, and ITB
Valve Kits

You are getting good quality attachments with Landpride. A little more money...and well worth it in the long run! Good choices.