4X20 ROPS Removal

sunnyside360 · Jul 21, 2009

Have a 4320 with 485 BH and must fold down the ROPS to put in the garage. I tried removing the top half of the ROPS by removing the pins but could not remove after taking off the locking pins. Tried light tapping with hammer and block of wood but still no dice.
Is there a trick to removing the pins with the circle clips? Sure would be nice to not have to bother with the ROPS since I don't work on hills with this tractor.

LBrown59 · Jul 21, 2009

sunnyside360 said:
Have a 4320 with 485 BH and must fold down the ROPS to put in the garage. I tried removing the top half of the ROPS by removing the pins but could not remove after taking off the locking pins. Tried light tapping with hammer and block of wood but still no dice.
Is there a trick to removing the pins with the circle clips? Sure would be nice to not have to bother with the ROPS since
* I don't work on hills with this tractor.

Hills aren't the only place to roll tractors.

Uncle Wayne · Jul 22, 2009

I have the same tractor and had the same problem. I used a hammer and a piece of rod to drive the pins out. They are tight and even harder to put back when you need to raise it again. The pins need a little more bevel on the ends to help get them started back through the 4 holes.

LBrown59 · Jul 22, 2009

A rops folds so you can get the tractor in the garage .
So why defeat the purpose by trying to remove the rops ?
Don't make no sense to me.

sunnyside360 · Jul 22, 2009

Uncle Wayne said:
I have the same tractor and had the same problem. I used a hammer and a piece of rod to drive the pins out. They are tight and even harder to put back when you need to raise it again. The pins need a little more bevel on the ends to help get them started back through the 4 holes.

Wayne, many thanks for your helpful response. I don't plan on leaving the ROPS off 100% of the time. Based on your experience, I think I will file the holes slightly and bevel the pins a little more prior to replacing the top half.
Actually, my JD dealer already filed the holes for the pins/holes with safety pin type lock to make it easier to tilt the ROPS when entering/exiting the barn which only has 7.5' high overhead doors.

sunnyside360 · Jul 22, 2009

LBrown59 said:
A rops folds so you can get the tractor in the garage .
So why defeat the purpose by trying to remove the rops ?
Don't make no sense to me.

On the 4X20 series tractor with 485 backhoe, the folding ROPS is very heavy and lays against the BH controls when lowered and could/would damage the levers.

B8FISH · Jul 22, 2009

If you put the pins back in their holes after you fold the ROPS does it still hit the controls? If not--you could drill a small hole in the ROPS bracket to put a pin in that would hold the upper 1/2 of the ROPS off of the control tower.

sunnyside360 · Jul 22, 2009

B8FISH said:
If you put the pins back in their holes after you fold the ROPS does it still hit the controls? If not--you could drill a small hole in the ROPS bracket to put a pin in that would hold the upper 1/2 of the ROPS off of the control tower.

Good idea. I'll check it out.

Uncle Wayne · Jul 23, 2009

sunnyside360 said:
Wayne, many thanks for your helpful response. I don't plan on leaving the ROPS off 100% of the time. Based on your experience, I think I will file the holes slightly and bevel the pins a little more prior to replacing the top half.
QUOTE]

That helped me. Another thing that is aggravating about the ROPs is the height. I have lots of trees to mow under and the ROPS catches limbs that actually make it more dangerous in the up position than when it's in the down position. If it was 12" to 18" lower that would help tremendously.

I guess I'll have to crank up the old chain saw to help that situation.

sunnyside360 · Jul 23, 2009

Uncle Wayne said:
That helped me. Another thing that is aggravating about the ROPs is the height. I have lots of trees to mow under and the ROPS catches limbs that actually make it more dangerous in the up position than when it's in the down position. If it was 12" to 18" lower that would help tremendously.

I guess I'll have to crank up the old chain saw to help that situation.

I considered shortening the ROPS about 12" and the dealer strongly advised not to do that for liability reasons. Also, the tractor trade-in value would be significantly less because the ROPS would need to be replaced prior to re-sale. So, decided to live with it the way it is. I dread the day when I forget to lower the ROPS prior to entering the garage.

B8FISH · Jul 23, 2009

Yep--BTDT--now have a tennis ball hanging from the entrance that whacks me in the face--a gentle reminder to check the ROPS before entering!!

Dale1995 · Jul 24, 2009

I believe the pins are serated on the ends, just pound them out

sunnyside360 · Jul 25, 2009

B8FISH said:
Yep--BTDT--now have a tennis ball hanging from the entrance that whacks me in the face--a gentle reminder to check the ROPS before entering!!

The hanging tennis ball is an excellent idea and cheap to install.

mfreund · Jul 25, 2009

sunnyside360 said:
I considered shortening the ROPS about 12" and the dealer strongly advised not to do that for liability reasons. Also, the tractor trade-in value would be significantly less because the ROPS would need to be replaced prior to re-sale. So, decided to live with it the way it is. I dread the day when I forget to lower the ROPS prior to entering the garage.

I bet you would only do it once.

sunnyside360 · Jul 26, 2009

mfreund said:
I bet you would only do it once.

I'm not as worried about myself as much as others who help me or borrow my equipment including wife, son-in-laws, grand children (teeners) and neighbors.
The tennis ball on each of the 3 doors would help but still no guarantee.
I've been thinking about building a storage shed with 10' high doors --- if I just had the money.

soulasphil · Jul 26, 2009

The problem is not only with the 4X20 series. I have exactly the same difficulties with my 3520. I can't understand why they make this ROPS so high! Can't get in or out of the barn with the ROPS up, can't use the mower or drive about my property because of the many trees. Same issue with the pins that are much too difficult to take out and put back. Deere should have a different version of the tractors for the many users who have trees on their land, with lower ROPS and more protected lights on it.

irwin · Jul 26, 2009

One of these can be the answer, cost is reasonable, and it can be made with 10 foot high sides.
Even with sides and a back on it it's less than $2500.00 installed. I'm going to do something for sides soon on mine. I was quoted $400 to add them through the company that sold it to me.
This one's got 7 foot sides, that makes it over eight foot to the bottom of the low side of the roof, almost ten foot in the center. Has the 12ga steel, cost was about $1400.

Better than spending 15k for a small garage that won't have enough door height to store the 94 inch tall L35, add the cost of a taller garage and door.

When I build my garage it won't be used to store the machines. (and it'll cost much more than 15K)

soulasphil · Jul 30, 2009

The situation has improved. At the 50 hour check up, the dealer filed the holes in the ROPS so that the pins can be removed and replaced without undue effort. He kept them tight to avoid noise and vibration. Now the main thing is not to forget to lower the ROPS before driving into the barn !

JDowneaster · Jul 31, 2009

I just bought a new 4120 yesterday and have been wondering as I read this thread whether or not my pins will also be too tight. It's still being prepped so I think I'll call and have them files the holes as others have done.

Great info!