I haven't done it myself yet, but - there is a plug that you have to pop out on the bottom of the hub, then the assembly is held together by a few big snap-rings. Download a parts manual - the exploded diagram will show you what it inside the hub/bezel. If you are going to take it apart, I'd suggest going ahead and changing the leaky seals - why not? The seals are about $50 each for my tractor. While apart, check the bearings carefully - a loose bearing sometimes causes that seal to fail, evidently. Apparently, the key to the job is a 'good' pair of snap-ring pliers, but I haven't been able to find out exactly what size or style is needed.
Dirt catches on the top of the hub and grinds into the seal - crappy design if you ask me. Sometimes, a particle of dirt will lodge under the seal lip causing a leak, but washing the area will blow the particle out and will stop the leak. My tractor has had leaky bezel seals since I got it 5 years ago, but I was always able to wash the area and slow the leaking to a manageable level - only lost about 1/2 gallon in 4 years. The starboard side seal is dry as a bone now, but toward the end of summer, the port side starting leaking like a sieve. My front axle was almost a gallon low when I filled up with the heavy stuff last month.
I put 85W140 gear oil (its like honey) into my front axle to slow it down until I get a chance to tear it apart. I don't think it made a whole lot of difference compared to the 80W90 I had in there previously, unfortunately - which makes sense since it's 80W vs 85W, although it sure looked thicker and barely flowed. I'll probably wait until spring to change the seal - it's already too danged cold to do that kind of job unless it is an emergency. My tractor seems to be leaking about 10-12oz. per month now - I'm catching it in a cup to keep an eye on it (tempted to dump it right back in too...). If it stays leaking at this rate, I'll probably only have to add oil once during the winter.
JayC
