5" Angle Grinder

[Big Barn]

Wow, 30cfm. Better have a big compressor or you ain't grinding long.

Those specs for 30cfm must be a misprint.

I have a two stage Atlas Copco with 23 cfm / 80 gallon tank. No problems.

 

[LD1]

Those specs for 30cfm must be a misprint.

I have a two stage Atlas Copco with 23 cfm / 80 gallon tank. No problems.

View attachment 453023

That spec is 30 CFM but that is at their 85psi max and no load.

If you have 23 cfm at 175 psi, you are gonna be able to make more than 23 cfm at 85 psi, and with a tankful of 175psi air, it would be a VERY long time before you ran out of air. So considering under load the grinder uses less air, probably why you dont have any issues. But about the next step down in air compressors is 60gal single stage stuff at ~10-14cfm and 120psi, what you have would probably be the minimum.

 

[Big Barn]

That spec is 30 CFM but that is at their 85psi max and no load.

If you have 23 cfm at 175 psi, you are gonna be able to make more than 23 cfm at 85 psi, and with a tankful of 175psi air, it would be a VERY long time before you ran out of air. So considering under load the grinder uses less air, probably why you dont have any issues. But about the next step down in air compressors is 60gal single stage stuff at ~10-14cfm and 120psi, what you have would probably be the minimum.

Thanks for clarifying, LD1.

 

[drizler]

My only thing on grinders is that I will never own another switch one again. I have 2 4.5's a Makita and Dewalt and both are paddle switches. After dealing with a multitude of HF switches that lasted for a few days to a couple years I stick to buying name brands when they go on a deep sale. I must say those paddle switches are so much better to work with. I'm not wild about those little safety flippers but it's easy to make them go away if need be.
One other trick I tried a while back is to hit the vents with the air chuck every time I use them. The first time a lot of metal and stone dust came blasting out. Who knows how much this affects longevity but definitely less is better.

 

[Big Barn]

I think switch type is a personal preference.

I like using my slide switch grinders for wire brush and grinding wheels.

And definitely paddle switch for cutoff discs.

 

[dragoneggs]

I think switch type is a personal preference. I like using my slide switch grinders for wire brush and grinding wheels. And definitely paddle switch for cutoff discs.

Interesting. Never really thought about it but will now.

 

[DFB]

Yea I would think a paddle switch along a brake would be ideal in many cutting disc situations for me.

 

[BukitCase]

I have several of the HF grinders in both slide and paddle switch, a Milwaukee 5" variable with paddle, and a 14 pound/15 amp Hitachi 9" with trigger switch - after a friend from work lost control of a HF slide switch type cutting some square tubing and cut halfway thru his ulna and nearly bled to death, I rigged up a dead-man switch that feeds a power strip, and ALL the slide switch types now plug into that setup for BENCH use.

The paddle or trigger types are the only ones that see "portable" use now, and I nearly always use heavy gauntlet weld gloves for grinding. Kinda hard to play piano or guitar with one hand ...Steve

 

[aczlan]

I wont buy a slide switch type grinder for that very reason. I have had the blade get bound up too many times to not want a way to shut the grinder off in a hurry...

Aaron Z

 

[Big Barn]

Here's the Makita 9005B that Arc Weld mentioned. Kind of the best of both worlds for switches. Instant on or off OR lockable on.

Both of mine are about 20 years old with zero problems.



Terry

 

[muddstopper]

I think that 9005b is the same 5in ginder I have thrown up under the bench. Switch went bad and never got around to fixing it. May have to drag it out and see what a new switch cost now days. If I remember back when the switch first went out, a new switch was almost as much as a grinder.

 

[flyerdan]

Quick search indicates around $20 for the switch, was curious as I have one of these as well. Mine was pieced together from three that I rescued from the trash at work, mixed and matched the serviceable parts. I think that these switches might be serviceable, and could be reworked, especially if you didn't care about keeping the lock on function. I seem to recall having to remove that from some grinders as that was a no-no for industrial applications, at least in Oregon. Or so we were told anyway.

 

[DFB]

I think that 9005b is the same 5in ginder I have thrown up under the bench. Switch went bad and never got around to fixing it. May have to drag it out and see what a new switch cost now days. If I remember back when the switch first went out, a new switch was almost as much as a grinder.

Makita Parts 651128-3 SWITCH, 9005B For Makita electric grinder

I used this place before and the shipping was very reasonable too.

I got parts for a Makita VSR drill and recip saw

Googling the part number online its widely available for various prices