5 or 6' Box Blade Scraper for Cub Cadet 7305?

[deezler]

Hi everyone, thanks in advance for any helpful insight here.

I really want (need) a box blade for my new tractor. I am trying to break ground on my new property - repair the scraggly little bit of actual "driveway" and add in a long new extension, and make smoother trails over my generally lumpy terrain.

I was feeling pretty set on a 5' box blade (tractor width with the R4s is ~58"), but money is super tight right now. And all I see used on local craigslist's are 6' models. Have been watching them daily waiting for a 5' box to pop up.... but it never does. So the question is, could my tractor handle a 6 footer? Or would I just be cursing myself as it hangs up on roots and rocks and stalls the tractor repeatedly. I am generally of the opinion to get the right sized equipment such that you can maintain power and speed when working. But if a 6' box blade added a significant amount of additional weight, would that help it be more effective too? Note: I have several areas of sloping terrain to work with, too.

Tractor specs:
Cub Cadet 7305 (Mitsubishi built, generally pretty stout) Low hours.
30 HP, 4WD, differential lock, 3-range hydro trans
Weight: ~2700 lbs, + loader. Tires NOT loaded.

Need to smooth out terrain like this as I punch into the woods:

Here is my little scraggly bit of driveway up by my road frontage. I want to rip it up to smooth it out, pack it back down, then add 4-6" of new clean rock on top.

 

[bcp]

A 6-footer you can buy is better than a 5-footer you can't buy.

Even if you have to take it easy during your reconstruction, it should be just about right for later maintenance.

Bruce

 

[deezler]

Haha, yes, a 6' box blade would probably be more effective than a non-existent 5 footer.

I suppose I should have added that the other consideration is to buy a NEW 5' box blade. We are really only talking about a couple hundred dollars more for a new 5' United blade from everything attachments vs. most of the used stuff I am seeing around here.

But my main question is how much less capable, or how much slower am I going to have to work, to get stuff done with a 6' vs 5' blade......?

 

[creekbend]

Specs on 7305: Wheelbase-67 inches, engine gross HP-30, net HP-27, PTO HP-24, 1653 pounds rear lift at 24 inches. Depending on the type of soil, I would think the 6 footer would suit your needs.

 

[scoutcub]

Haha, yes, a 6' box blade would probably be more effective than a non-existent 5 footer.

I suppose I should have added that the other consideration is to buy a NEW 5' box blade. We are really only talking about a couple hundred dollars more for a new 5' United blade from everything attachments vs. most of the used stuff I am seeing around here.

But my main question is how much less capable, or how much slower am I going to have to work, to get stuff done with a 6' vs 5' blade......?

Deez -
I'm in the same boat, searching for the right size BB . :confused2: In your case, I would venture to say either would be OK. Keep in mind, every box blade has a different weight. Some are 300....some are 1000. Find the right weight, and you should be OK!!!

 

[deezler]

Specs on 7305: Wheelbase-67 inches, engine gross HP-30, net HP-27, PTO HP-24, 1653 pounds rear lift at 24 inches. Depending on the type of soil, I would think the 6 footer would suit your needs.

Yeah I am not worried about the tractor lifting or carrying a 72" blade, just it having enough tractive force to pull it with ease. Depending on soil... hmmm... I have: Sandy loam, silty mud, clay and rubble in-fill, tired old gravel driveway base, and root-filled brush zones.

In your case, I would venture to say either would be OK. Keep in mind, every box blade has a different weight. Some are 300....some are 1000. Find the right weight, and you should be OK!!!

Well, what is the "right" weight? I am thinking the heavier the better. I'd be happy to see 5 to 600 pounds, but most 5 footers are more like 400 lbs.

I don't have the money for any of these (yet), but my top three choices are looking like:
1. Everything-Attachments-66-Inch-Box-Blade

2. King-Kutter-Professional-Tractor-Box-Blade

3. United-566HD-Heavy-Duty-Tractor-Box-Blade-66

All of these look better than the tractor-supply or northern tool type options to me.

 

[Ford tractor]

For the road work, the 6' would be good. For the rough stuff, you don't have enough tractor to "easily" drag even a 5 ft. Roots are tough tough tough and will stop you dead. heck, they will stop a tractor twice that size.

Buy the heaviest implement you can and that will typically be your best one. The worry I have is that if you get a root on an edge a light box will pretzel up. Just keep that in mind.

 

[creekbend]

Ford tractor made some good points.

 

[Martian]

6' is definitely better than none. What I would do as well is go around to local dealerships. The dealers are especially good, but a lot of times you'll find used implements for great prices that have sat on dealers lots for years.

 

[deezler]

^ yes ford tractor does make some good points. That's kind of the opinion I was seeking - that I should pass on 72" used box blades because I just don't have enough tractor to pull one through the rough stuff.

So, if I go with the conservative approach and find a new 5 foot box blade... it's kind of hard to tell what model would be better than another. The weight is typically pretty comparable, so I guess I am looking for:

- front AND rear cutting blades, ideally reversible.
- good bracing between the 3-pt mounting and the rear moldboard
- clevis style mounting on the lower arms vs the simple pin.
- more shanks are better than less (so, 5 is better than 4 in the case of a 5' BB)

Any thoughts on my selection criteria?

Good tip Martian. I might have to make some calls.

 

[Martian]

- front AND rear cutting blades, ideally reversible.

Yes. Really limiting to not be able to pull forward and push stuff backwards.

- good bracing between the 3-pt mounting and the rear moldboard

This is overrated IMO. I have a Frontier BB1284, which is made by Gannon Industrial. The blade weighs 1250lbs and is built like a tank, but no supports to the rear. Hydraulic rippers so you don't even have to leave the seat for adjustment. See the pictures, and no, it doesn't get pulled with the tractor in the picture.

- more shanks are better than less (so, 5 is better than 4 in the case of a 5' BB)

This depends. If you have a lot of ripping to do, then it would be a good thing, but if your doing more grading, then the extra rippers may just slow you down more.

 

[spruce Deere]

For road maintenance, a 72" BB on your size of tractor would do fine. Wider is better and weight is your friend with a BB bb.

For put'n in roads threw the wilderness yonder like your picture shows, a not so wide BB may be better. With roots, stumps and other well planted hidden anchors found in such jobs, only takes one ripper on one root to halt all motion. And if the build of the BB is not on the heavy duty side of things, worse things can happen.

I have a 48 inch 2048 frontier box blade I drag with my 790. 48 inches wide because of the tight spaces to be worked in the tree farm. The build of this the BB is heavy and very robust, If anything was to break I doubt it would be the BB.

For an 'all-around' BB in your case, I would lean towards a heavy, well built 60-66 incher.... But if a good 72" came along for a good price, I wouldn't wait to long.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

60"-66" max. Any bigger and you will be hating life. With the tractor not being ballasted, it is just to light to make good use of anything bigger. If you can find yourself something in the 600lb and up range you would be better served. You should be able to load your box and pull it as shown in the picture under almost all conditions (meaning uphill).

Just my :2cents:

 

[deezler]

Holy sh*t Martian, that is a serious box blade. There's actually one like that for sale nearby.

With no good 60" BBs for sale used nearby, I suppose I will be buying new from everything-attachments. Just can't beat their price when you consider the free shipping. Then I think I will get some steel bits sourced so that when I get the BB shipped right to me here at work (as we have a forklift and loading bay) I can beg a co-worker to help me weld on a weight-bracket of some kind, and a tow hitch reciever.

But I don't have approval from the CFO just yet, haha. Might take another month or two; in the meantime I'll be watching searchtempest daily.

Really appreciate all the insight, everyone.

 

[AchingBack]

I noticed in post #1 you don't have your rear tires filled. That would be one of my priorities on the tractor. It will make a huge improvement when using ground engaging equipment, and for loader use.

 

[Martian]

I wouldn't recommend that box blade, my 3120 didn't like lifting and moving around with it, let alone digging into the ground, well I couldn't imagine trying to do that.

Everything attachments is a good idea, I've looked at their prices and they are very fair.

I noticed in post #1 you don't have your rear tires filled. That would be one of my priorities on the tractor. It will make a huge improvement when using ground engaging equipment, and for loader use.

Reminded me, I would second this post. For around $150 you can add a lot of weight and will make a huge difference in the performance of your tractor overall:thumbsup:

 

[deezler]

Arg, yes, to fill the tires or not to fill the tires.

I don't have any way to get my tractor to a shop / dealer. From my limited reading on the subject here of doing it yourself... it doesn't seem all that easy. Then if you get a leak, you spill it all onto the ground somewhere.

And then of course I will eventually have a lawn to drive across (once I build my house.. someday). So how easy is it to remove fluid from the tires?

I know the traction & inertia from having the rears filled would be awesome. But I just can't see past the obstacles at this point. For what it's worth, I do always plan to have a rear implement mounted. At this point in the initial 10 hours I have used the tractor, I haven't found any situations where the rear feels light, even with just the relatively dinky 6' rear blade on. This is probably partly due to how weak my front loader is, too....

But! I have enough trails/roads that I want to cut across my land, primarily through box blade ripping, that having them filled would be very valuable. Decisions, decisions...

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Fill the tires, no reason not to do it yourself, very easy, just takes a little time. Once you have filled them, you will be VERY upset with yourself for not doing it sooner. It is like having a different heavier machine, which it is! :thumbsup: You will be amazed at how much the capabilities of the tractor increase. Once you have them filled, you will not want to go back to being lighter, lawn or no lawn, heavier is better.