50 hour service: 1023 or 1025 or 1026

   / 50 hour service: 1023 or 1025 or 1026 #11  
12" of snow??? We've been sunny and 80 all week. While I like a little snow every year this is spring time.
 
   / 50 hour service: 1023 or 1025 or 1026
  • Thread Starter
#12  
Well, I just finished the 50 hour hydraulic oil change and changed out the fuel bowl filter because it appeared to have some red gook in the bottom of the bowl.

Yeah, the 13 mm drain plug was tight. Skinned a knuckle when it released. Shoulda had my gloves on. Sucked a couple quarts out with the oil extractor first; so, it all fit into my drain pan. Didn't have quite enough new lo-vis oil. Had some left over from the 4010, but apparently less than a quart.

Didn't do the oil strainer after loosening the bottom clamp and then seeing how stiff that rubber hose was and how impossible to get to the top clamp (I waited on removing the wheel; didn't) I give JD an "F" on its design. The one for the 4010 was integral with the hydraulic filter: all came out together after taking a little cover off. The spin-on filter was tight, but it came loose reasonably easy with a standard strap type filter wrench (didn't appear to have enough room for my chain wrench if it had been really tight and needed it). I made sure to have the wrench near the base of it. There was no indication of any problem with the oil strainer, and I had hardly squat on the strainer on the 4010. Should still run fine. Did down the hill and back, even a pint to a quart low on fluid.

Putting a little oil into the spin-on filter is ridiculous. I didn't even attempt it after seeing all the oil come out of it when unscrewed. You cannot put oil into a horizontal filter and expect it to stay there. Another "F", JD. What's the big deal? It fills up soon as you start the engine anyway. The oil pump is taking suction on the sump liquid. It's not going to run dry.

The red in the bottom of the fuel bowl was a red ring gasket that seems to serve no purpose. I put it back just in case it's supposed to do something. Filter appeared fine and clean. Kept it and the box to take to JD next time to make sure they give me the right one. Same for the hydraulic filter box.

Ralph
 
   / 50 hour service: 1023 or 1025 or 1026 #13  
Well, I just finished the 50 hour hydraulic oil change and changed out the fuel bowl filter because it appeared to have some red gook in the bottom of the bowl.

Yeah, the 13 mm drain plug was tight. Skinned a knuckle when it released. Shoulda had my gloves on. Sucked a couple quarts out with the oil extractor first; so, it all fit into my drain pan. Didn't have quite enough new lo-vis oil. Had some left over from the 4010, but apparently less than a quart.

Didn't do the oil strainer after loosening the bottom clamp and then seeing how stiff that rubber hose was and how impossible to get to the top clamp (I waited on removing the wheel; didn't) I give JD an "F" on its design. The one for the 4010 was integral with the hydraulic filter: all came out together after taking a little cover off. The spin-on filter was tight, but it came loose reasonably easy with a standard strap type filter wrench (didn't appear to have enough room for my chain wrench if it had been really tight and needed it). I made sure to have the wrench near the base of it. There was no indication of any problem with the oil strainer, and I had hardly squat on the strainer on the 4010. Should still run fine. Did down the hill and back, even a pint to a quart low on fluid.

Putting a little oil into the spin-on filter is ridiculous. I didn't even attempt it after seeing all the oil come out of it when unscrewed. You cannot put oil into a horizontal filter and expect it to stay there. Another "F", JD. What's the big deal? It fills up soon as you start the engine anyway. The oil pump is taking suction on the sump liquid. It's not going to run dry.

The red in the bottom of the fuel bowl was a red ring gasket that seems to serve no purpose. I put it back just in case it's supposed to do something. Filter appeared fine and clean. Kept it and the box to take to JD next time to make sure they give me the right one. Same for the hydraulic filter box.

Ralph

The "red thing" will float on water, indicating it's time to empty water out of the fuel bowl.
 
   / 50 hour service: 1023 or 1025 or 1026 #14  
No way I would skip the suction screen. Next fluid change is 500 hrs, that is a long time to possibly have a nasty suction screen.
 
   / 50 hour service: 1023 or 1025 or 1026 #15  
Did you get much stuff on the suction screen? I remember on my 4010 that I got virtually nothing.

Asking myself, "why do the suction screen?".

I plan to suction a little bit out into my oil extractor from the dipstick and then drain the rest, because I'm not absolutely sure my drain pan will hold the entire 13 quarts. (Think it will. Used to do one 240D change and another 4 quarter into it. 240D took 7 or 8 quarts.)

Ralph

I'm sure the 1023/1025/1026 tranny is a distant cousin of the 2210/2305 tranny but I've done my 2210 3 times now and every time there is a fair amount of shavings in the screen, worst was the first time. I think it comes from when I forget to come to a complete stop before shifting/grinding from low/high.

Boy you guys do a lot of hours, my 2210 has 800 hours after 10 years.
 
   / 50 hour service: 1023 or 1025 or 1026
  • Thread Starter
#16  
It's all metal shavings from manufacture. No way are you going to chip gears, etc. in operation.

I got virtually nothing on the 4010's screen.

If I do this one's, I'll detach that suction tube at the pump. The manual says "if" you remove it there, the o-ring gasket has to be replaced. I'll buy the gasket next time and do it then, detaching it there. I'm not messing with two clamps I can barely get at. Hate those clasp clamp type. If I was able to get them off, I'd replace them with screw type clamps.

Ralph
 
   / 50 hour service: 1023 or 1025 or 1026 #17  
Yeah, the suction screen is a real witch to take out owing to that stubby little hose, but that's where all the initial flush contamination sits - you really need to get 'er out & cleaned, at least the first time.

I put on a fair amount of hours because I use the tractor for multiple implements. This weekend I finally took off the snowblower (after a 10 inch snow on Friday!!), and put the sweeper on. I planned to change the auger gear oil, but they cranked in the oil fill/drain screw so tight I couldn't get it off even with a vice grips & hammer!

Boy, talk about inattention to design details. That really irked me. I'm going to drop off the blower at the dealer & have them remove it under warranty.

Anyway, the sweeper is on & runs great, need to post some pics! Just too whipped after all the barn work this weekend.
 
   / 50 hour service: 1023 or 1025 or 1026
  • Thread Starter
#18  
That suction screen is huge. All the fluid needs is the flow area pretty much equivalent to the area inside that suction pipe, not much. It wasn't making any unusual noises or doing anything weird before the oil change. Works fine after, even almost 2 quarts low on Lo-vis (got another gallon today).

Like I said, if I decide to look at it next fluid change, I'll remove the pipe at the pump, getting a replacement o-ring ahead of time.

Ralph
 
   / 50 hour service: 1023 or 1025 or 1026
  • Thread Starter
#19  
The spin-on filter was leaking today when I put the bush hog on. Gave it another about 1/4 turn with a filter wrench. On engine filters, I learned from long experience to tighten them as tight as I could just by hand. Didn't work on this one. Will have to mark it next time with a spot of white paint to determine when I get that full turn they recommend. Bet it won't be enough though.

Ralph
 
   / 50 hour service: 1023 or 1025 or 1026 #20  
It's a mistake not to clean the suction screen at every oil change. They get slimed up, and you don't want ANY restriction on the suction side of the pump.
 

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