50 Hour service Question....

don716 · Aug 11, 2004

The dealer told me that they check the trans/hydro fluid for contaminates and if it's ok, then they only change the filters. They charge $250.00 for the 50hr service. That's $70.00 per hr. for 2 hrs. plus about $100.00 for parts.
I did my service myself and saved all that money.I do the work on my vehicles myself so a tractor is not much different.
All I lack on my service is greasing it.
Donny

Henro · Aug 11, 2004

The dealer told me that they check the trans/hydro fluid for contaminates and if it's ok, then they only change the filters. 

Sounds fishy to me. How do they check those fluids? By taste?

Seems like it would take an analysis by a qualified lab to come to that determination. I would ask to see the lab report...

But there probably is not one.

The truth probably is that the dealer just does not change the transmission fluid because it is his practice not to do so. Even though the Kubota manual states it is a MUST item.

Sounds like dealer knows best... /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif

But in my head KUBOTA knows best, so I follow their recommendations. I think the dealers should too!

Even though it looks like new when it comes out and it sure seems like a waste to change it when it looks so perfect...

dannyk · Aug 16, 2004

Just finished my 50 hr service on my B7500 and I thought I'd post the most useful tips I have gleaned from others and on my own.

1. The plastic sheet under the tractor is a great idea.

2. Removing the 4 drain plugs starting with the front tranny, then the mid PTO, and finally the rear axle plugs is the best method because it avoids high head pressure from the 2 drains below the rear axles. I worked with three different oil pans under the plugs, rotating them and emptying them as necessary.

3. Take a lunch break while the front tranny drains. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif I drained all 3.3 gallons.

4. The largest hydraulic filter goes on the right side of the tractor in front of the strainer. The smaller (blue) filter goes on the left side.

5. After cutting the paint around the strainer nut with a razor blade, I found that my Craftsman 15 inch adjustable wrench worked really well to remove the strainer. Just be sure to snug it up real well on the nut. I found a few particles on the strainer, but not many. I wonder what the "non-flammable solvent" is that my manual suggests to use. Offhand the only non-flammable solvent I can think of is water! The air pressure idea sounds reasonable. I just flicked off the particles with a piece of paper towel, probably not the best method.

6. Be sure when checking wheel nuts to tighten the nut on the inside of each rear wheel. Mine were loose: no where near 100 ft-lb.

7. Don't forget to adjust the clutch nut. My clutch had too much play. Easy job.

8. All in all, this job is only slightly more complex than changing engine oil, so there's no real reason for someone like me to have the dealer do the service.

Now I think I'll print this so I don't forget it for next time!

Steve_S · Aug 17, 2004

( 3. Take a lunch break while the front tranny drains. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif I drained all 3.3 gallons.)

Could we replace lunch with a beer and a chew? /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

HighTwelve · Aug 17, 2004

Many thanks to DannyK. It sounds like basically the same procedure as the manual specifies for my yet-to-be-delivered- from-Tennessee L3010. As I posted in another thread, the tractor has about 325 hours on it and I do not have the previous maintenance history so I am going to do the 400 hour service and get it over with.

I may have a useful suggestion here - has anybody considered making a 10 gal or so tub to catch the hydraulic fluid? I can buy an old 50 gal plastic drum for peanuts and saber saw a slice off of one end that would hold, say, 10 gallons. Any reason why this wouldn't work? I can get the tractor up an additional 8" off the ground using 4 Rhino ramps.
Would the tub fit underneath?

Junkman · Aug 17, 2004

You might get the "10 gallon" Texas sized oil drain pan under the tractor, but how about emptying it when it is full? If oil weighs 7# to the gallon (my approximation), then you will have 63# of oil (9 gallons X 7# = 63), plus the weight of the pan itself.... possibly another 10#. I believe that this will present a problem for disposal, unless you have a pump to put it into containers.

BobCorazza · Aug 18, 2004

Lots of good suggestions. I have a few from experience :
Replace all fluids at 50 hrs. The tranny will have introduced junk to the hydraulic oil from manufacturing. Clean the Strainer while you have the chance - it's painless. Make absolutely certain Kubota sells you the correct transmission filter (yellow on my L3410). There was a TSB out on at least the entire "L" series, and possibly the "B" series for a new spec filter when used in cold weather. Mine blew out (twice) dumping 10 gallons of hydro fluid on the ground when it was about 10 degress outside. The first fluid change is important.
As far as subsequent filter replacement, my manual recommends engine oil at 100h (filter every other), hyrdo at 400 (filter every 200h). I currently double both after I installed bypass filters on both systems that filter down to 1 micron. I have sent out oil samples to confirm the oil's suitability for extended use.