50 Hour Service

[joeyd]

I am about to perform my 50 hr. service and I thought I would ask about a few "tips" to make it easier.

1. What do you use to catch the hydraulic fluid? My TYM has an 8.5 gal capacity but I have not seen anything larger than a 5 gal drip pan. Do you plug it and then dump your first 5 gals and continue? Doesn't this get messy?

2. Any advice on re-filling from a 5 gal container? Extra long funnel?

3. Has anyone used the Premium Tractor Fluid from Costco?

I have learned that it is better to learn from others mistakes whenever you can. I still make enough of them for all of us. :laughing:

 

[9973720wb19]

if you don't mind spending the money (assuming you'll continue to do your maintenance) NorthernTool has a few nice rolling oil trays that have a hand pump to drain in smaller containers. I got one that holds 17 gallons so it's good for both the engine and trans oil dump all at once. got these after a heck of a mess trying to swap out smaller oil pans while the oil was still running out. also have on hand a few oil soaking white pads - they really work along with the standard red shop towels. before the oil changes, i start collecting plastic bottles with lids (milk bottles, AZ tea, etc.) for transport to the local appropriate dumping station.

I've used the 5 gallon buckets to re-fill. could not find "one" filter that worked so had to prop up two filters - make sure they're good and tight and it was not a problem. those 5g buckets are lighter than i thought. seemed lighter than 5g of diesel.

 

[johnrex62]

Run a quick search on the forums for 50 hour service. You will find several threads with tips and tricks. Foremost among them is a tip to use a shopvac to create sufficient vacumn to prevent the oil from draining while you change filters. :thumbsup:

You will likely get a rehash of many of these tips in this thread, but do the search while you wait. You will be surprised what else you may learn without having to think of the question first.

 

[clemsonfor]

Get some empty fluid buckets from a guy with heavy equipment they always have empties. Fill the first with about 5 gallons then quicly move the next under. Id personally chage this fluid over your gravel or in the grass so the spills dont get on your good floor. Then start up and move to your pad or shop for the oil as it is easy to catch. Forget the 1 gallon bottles to fill, just take the 5 gallon buckets with the oil in it with the original top to the collection center.

 

[srs]

I am about to perform my 50 hr. service and I thought I would ask about a few "tips" to make it easier.

Joeyd, for what it's worth when I did my 50 service on my B3030 Kubota I accidentally stripped the bolt threads when reapply the bolt when done. I had to get one of those thread repair kits for a little over $100. Talk about pucker factor! So my two cents worth just be careful so you don't over tighten any bolts when you reassemble. This is my 3rd Kubota and never had an issue with the other tractors so I'm kinda thinking I might of had a defective part, who knows?

 

[jonyyuma]

By chance did you have a copper or plastic washer on the drain plug?Usually it takes alot to strip a plug.

 

[kco]

A tip I used originally posted by dennis52 on another thread was to make a 15 gallon or so drip pan by cutting the bottom third from a 55 gal drum. It fits under the tractor and will handle the entire 11-12 gallons of fluid.

The drum I used originally contained hydraulic fluid so there was no explosion hazard while cutting it. If one uses a drum that contained volatile products care must be taken to ensure it is free of fumes.

For my Kioti DK35 HST, a 2 foot section of 1" flexible garden hose fits perfectly in the hydraulic filler opening and I shoved a medium sized funnel in the other end of the garden hose.

I placed all used fluids in another 30 gallon drum and will either take it to a local garage for disposal or use it for burning brush piles and/or as a coating as a rust inhibitor for long term storage of machinery.

 

[srs]

By chance did you have a copper or plastic washer on the drain plug?Usually it takes alot to strip a plug.

I don't remember having any kind of washer on the bolt. It's been awhile since I did the 50 hour service but when it is time to flush the system out you can bet I'll be extra careful when I tighten the bolt down. I had a Kubota B6200 (gear) and Kubota B1550 (HST) and never had an issue. I may have tightened it too much or maybe it was a defect, not that it matters since I fixed it with a thread repair kit.

 

[joeyd]

Thanks for the advice and Johnrex62 thanks, the other threads gave me more ideas.

One last question that no one answered was about the Costco Premium tractor fluid, any one use it yet?

 

[JDgreen227]

Menards and other big box home center stores sell what is basically advertised as a concrete mixing tub, for about $13, they are 2X3 feet and about 9 inches deep, black plastic. They work well for draining large amounts of fluid.

And, somebody mentioned here about stripped threads on a drain plug, reminded me of the issue I had with my Deere 4210. When I originally changed the hydro fluid and filters at the recommended 50 hours, the rear axle drain plug has a 3/8 inch square recess, and it wasn't hard to remove it with a socket wrench. I know I didn't tighten it very tight when I reinstalled the plug at 50 hours, but when I did the next fluid change at 500 hours, it was frozen in place and I was afraid of breaking it off while trying to loosen it, so I just backed the rear axle up on ramps to drain the hydro fluid when I removed the suction screen case. I still wonder if I should have put some kind of anti-seize compound on the plug before I reinstalled it.

 

[clemsonfor]

Menards and other big box home center stores sell what is basically advertised as a concrete mixing tub, for about $13, they are 2X3 feet and about 9 inches deep, black plastic. They work well for draining large amounts of fluid.

And, somebody mentioned here about stripped threads on a drain plug, reminded me of the issue I had with my Deere 4210. When I originally changed the hydro fluid and filters at the recommended 50 hours, the rear axle drain plug has a 3/8 inch square recess, and it wasn't hard to remove it with a socket wrench. I know I didn't tighten it very tight when I reinstalled the plug at 50 hours, but when I did the next fluid change at 500 hours, it was frozen in place and I was afraid of breaking it off while trying to loosen it, so I just backed the rear axle up on ramps to drain the hydro fluid when I removed the suction screen case. I still wonder if I should have put some kind of anti-seize compound on the plug before I reinstalled it.

Deeres are bad with this. My uncle broke his extention last time i helped him service his hydro fluid. I was thinking the rear axle and hydro was all the same, maybe not? But it was on the bottom i beleive. Im ny opinion a hex head would have been better. I know why they use the recessed plug , so that it dont get broke off driving over stumps n such. But they could use a protector rind like on rims if that was a concern. You can always in my opinion get more leverage on a tight fitting wrench or socket vs. an extention in a sloppy hole trying to fall out.

I had an old gm that was frozen in the axle like this as it was the fill plug. I thought about heat but someone mentioned not torching my pinion seal, so i just pulled the coverplate off and eyeballed a line from the fill point and drilled the diff cover like Chryslers have and reinstalled.

 

[joeyd]

By chance did you have a copper or plastic washer on the drain plug?Usually it takes alot to strip a plug.

I have two drain plugs for the engine. I didn't strip any drain plugs but thanks to your post I noticed one had a copper washer and one didn't. I searched the bottom of my drain pan and found it. Apparently it stuck to the bottom of the pan when I took the plug out and fell in while the oil was draining. I try and keep a hold of the plug when I remove it because I hate fishing in the pan for the plug but I had to go fishing for the washer anyway. :laughing:

JDGreen - Quote-"Menards and other big box home center stores sell what is basically advertised as a concrete mixing tub, for about $13, they are 2X3 feet and about 9 inches deep, black plastic. They work well for draining large amounts of fluid."

Thanks I used it and it worked great for the hydraulics!

Another trick I used when draining the front axle since I have a drain plug for each wheel was to use a disposable aluminum cooking pan from the dollar store. I got one that held about a gallon and was able to flex it under each plug while the center housing was draining into my drain pan. The wheel plugs sit close to the outside of the axle and would have made a mess if I had tried to use a regular drain pan without the flexible lip.

Thanks for all the tips. :thumbsup:

 

[RalphVa]

The owners manual on my 4010 never said anything about removing a rear wheel. Gotta remove one to extract the rod on the 3ph mechanism that goes across in back of the filter. Likely not a problem on your TYM.

Ralph

 

[sweep]

I am about to perform my 50 hr. service and I thought I would ask about a few "tips" to make it easier.

1. What do you use to catch the hydraulic fluid? My TYM has an 8.5 gal capacity but I have not seen anything larger than a 5 gal drip pan. Do you plug it and then dump your first 5 gals and continue? Doesn't this get messy?

I always thought with most tractors the 50 hr service just required a hydraulic filter change and not the fluid itself???

 

[JDgreen227]

I always thought with most tractors the 50 hr service just required a hydraulic filter change and not the fluid itself???

I can understand that, because back in my high school days there was a guy who never changed the oil in his junker car, because it was an oil burner and he thought that since he kept adding fresh oil all the time, he never had to change the oil.

When the engine finally blew because the oil was pure carbon, he was heard to say: "But I just put in two fresh quarts this morning..."

When I did the 50 hour service of the hydro system on my JD, the OEM fluid looked so clean I was tempted to replace just the two filters and then strain the fluid through a clean cloth and reuse most of it. But in the back of my mind, I kept remembering that old jingle that Fram used to use:

"You can pay a little more now, or pay a lot more later".

Too bad Fram didn't use that slogan back in 1968. It might have saved me from blowing the engine in my first car.

STOP LAUGHING....:laughing: