50 Hour Service

   / 50 Hour Service #11  
Menards and other big box home center stores sell what is basically advertised as a concrete mixing tub, for about $13, they are 2X3 feet and about 9 inches deep, black plastic. They work well for draining large amounts of fluid.

And, somebody mentioned here about stripped threads on a drain plug, reminded me of the issue I had with my Deere 4210. When I originally changed the hydro fluid and filters at the recommended 50 hours, the rear axle drain plug has a 3/8 inch square recess, and it wasn't hard to remove it with a socket wrench. I know I didn't tighten it very tight when I reinstalled the plug at 50 hours, but when I did the next fluid change at 500 hours, it was frozen in place and I was afraid of breaking it off while trying to loosen it, so I just backed the rear axle up on ramps to drain the hydro fluid when I removed the suction screen case. I still wonder if I should have put some kind of anti-seize compound on the plug before I reinstalled it.

Deeres are bad with this. My uncle broke his extention last time i helped him service his hydro fluid. I was thinking the rear axle and hydro was all the same, maybe not? But it was on the bottom i beleive. Im ny opinion a hex head would have been better. I know why they use the recessed plug , so that it dont get broke off driving over stumps n such. But they could use a protector rind like on rims if that was a concern. You can always in my opinion get more leverage on a tight fitting wrench or socket vs. an extention in a sloppy hole trying to fall out.

I had an old gm that was frozen in the axle like this as it was the fill plug. I thought about heat but someone mentioned not torching my pinion seal, so i just pulled the coverplate off and eyeballed a line from the fill point and drilled the diff cover like Chryslers have and reinstalled.
 
   / 50 Hour Service
  • Thread Starter
#12  
By chance did you have a copper or plastic washer on the drain plug?Usually it takes alot to strip a plug.

I have two drain plugs for the engine. I didn't strip any drain plugs but thanks to your post I noticed one had a copper washer and one didn't. I searched the bottom of my drain pan and found it. Apparently it stuck to the bottom of the pan when I took the plug out and fell in while the oil was draining. I try and keep a hold of the plug when I remove it because I hate fishing in the pan for the plug but I had to go fishing for the washer anyway. :laughing:

JDGreen - Quote-"Menards and other big box home center stores sell what is basically advertised as a concrete mixing tub, for about $13, they are 2X3 feet and about 9 inches deep, black plastic. They work well for draining large amounts of fluid."

Thanks I used it and it worked great for the hydraulics!

Another trick I used when draining the front axle since I have a drain plug for each wheel was to use a disposable aluminum cooking pan from the dollar store. I got one that held about a gallon and was able to flex it under each plug while the center housing was draining into my drain pan. The wheel plugs sit close to the outside of the axle and would have made a mess if I had tried to use a regular drain pan without the flexible lip.

Thanks for all the tips. :thumbsup:
 
   / 50 Hour Service #13  
The owners manual on my 4010 never said anything about removing a rear wheel. Gotta remove one to extract the rod on the 3ph mechanism that goes across in back of the filter. Likely not a problem on your TYM.

Ralph
 
   / 50 Hour Service #14  
I am about to perform my 50 hr. service and I thought I would ask about a few "tips" to make it easier.

1. What do you use to catch the hydraulic fluid? My TYM has an 8.5 gal capacity but I have not seen anything larger than a 5 gal drip pan. Do you plug it and then dump your first 5 gals and continue? Doesn't this get messy?

I always thought with most tractors the 50 hr service just required a hydraulic filter change and not the fluid itself???
 
   / 50 Hour Service #15  
I always thought with most tractors the 50 hr service just required a hydraulic filter change and not the fluid itself???

I can understand that, because back in my high school days there was a guy who never changed the oil in his junker car, because it was an oil burner and he thought that since he kept adding fresh oil all the time, he never had to change the oil.

When the engine finally blew because the oil was pure carbon, he was heard to say: "But I just put in two fresh quarts this morning..."

When I did the 50 hour service of the hydro system on my JD, the OEM fluid looked so clean I was tempted to replace just the two filters and then strain the fluid through a clean cloth and reuse most of it. But in the back of my mind, I kept remembering that old jingle that Fram used to use:

"You can pay a little more now, or pay a lot more later".

Too bad Fram didn't use that slogan back in 1968. It might have saved me from blowing the engine in my first car.

STOP LAUGHING....:laughing:
 
 
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