50 Hour Service

[stoshb]

About time to do the 50 Hour on my CK20. Trying to figure out what to expect. This is my first tractor so don't know many of the specifics.

Bought the tractor from East Texas Tractor last year, but they went out of business on Jan 1 of this year. So can't go there. (Nor buy parts either).

Would appreciate a cheat sheet of what to expect before I start digging through the manuals.

Thanks

 

[murphy1244]

About time to do the 50 Hour on my CK20. Trying to figure out what to expect. This is my first tractor so don't know many of the specifics.

Bought the tractor from East Texas Tractor last year, but they went out of business on Jan 1 of this year. So can't go there. (Nor buy parts either).

Would appreciate a cheat sheet of what to expect before I start digging through the manuals.

Thanks

Well for me its 1.change engine oil and filter
2. change trans and hst filter
3. change front axle fluid
4. check clutch pedal and brake pedal free play
5.a full grease job
6. check torque on wheels

 

[CJONE]

I am at about 150 hours or so, Do most everything by the service manual. The only surprises that I have found are a ton of machining remnants in the oil sump for the hydraulics/hydrostat and my anchor bolts for the pins on the loader were all loose. The loader mount points to the tractor were all over the place for torque, once they were torqued they stayed good. I pulled the right lower cap off of the balljoint/final drive just to see how much metal was in there, it looked good. The drain bolt will not work because they put the port in the side of the cap right above the o-ring seal, that is why it just drips out. Good move Kioti. The oil drain threaded holes for the engine oil pan are just garbage, they need helicoils badly. Do not tighten beyond snug or you will be repairing them. CJ

 

[stoshb]

Thanks to both of you for the info. Being pretty much a city boy, this is my first tractor (and hope it is last) but have enjoyed it. Using it lot more than expected. Think I can handle those tasks.

 

[murphy1244]

Thanks to both of you for the info. Being pretty much a city boy, this is my first tractor (and hope it is last) but have enjoyed it. Using it lot more than expected. Think I can handle those tasks.

Listen to Cjone, Get some blue locktite and do the loader frame bolts. If not, keep a sharp eye on those bolts.

 

[b737drvr]

I performed my 50 hr service on my DK40 earlier in the summer, and it was fairly straight forward. The HST and trans filters were a little bit of a bear to get off, so halfway through the service I decided to go get the appropriately sized filter wrenches from NAPA. Make sure you have a big drain pan (at least 10 gallons worth) when you drain the transmission fluid. (mine overflowed!) As far as cost goes, I think I spent around $350. That was for 5 gal of engine oil, 15 gal (3 pails) of transmission fluid, and three filters (from the Kioti dealer). That cost didn't include a $25 filter wrench. Good luck!

 

[boomer613]

I performed my 50 hr service on my DK40 earlier in the summer, and it was fairly straight forward. The HST and trans filters were a little bit of a bear to get off, so halfway through the service I decided to go get the appropriately sized filter wrenches from NAPA. Make sure you have a big drain pan (at least 10 gallons worth) when you drain the transmission fluid. (mine overflowed!) As far as cost goes, I think I spent around $350. That was for 5 gal of engine oil, 15 gal (3 pails) of transmission fluid, and three filters (from the Kioti dealer). That cost didn't include a $25 filter wrench. Good luck!

I heard many people have problems changing their hydraulic and oil filters the first time due to Kioti painting each tractor after the filters has been installed. I am at 32 hours and should be doing my first 50 hour change soon. What brand or type of filter wrench would you recommend? Anyone has a favorite? I am curious if a large wrench made for diesel trucks would work.

 

[murphy1244]

I heard many people have problems changing their hydraulic and oil filters the first time due to Kioti painting each tractor after the filters has been installed. I am at 32 hours and should be doing my first 50 hour change soon. What brand or type of filter wrench would you recommend? Anyone has a favorite? I am curious if a large wrench made for diesel trucks would work.

Get yourself a strap wrench.

 

[CJONE]

I heard many people have problems changing their hydraulic and oil filters the first time due to Kioti painting each tractor after the filters has been installed. I am at 32 hours and should be doing my first 50 hour change soon. What brand or type of filter wrench would you recommend? Anyone has a favorite? I am curious if a large wrench made for diesel trucks would work.

Yes, the wrench for the oil/large fuel filter is best then you can get a breaker bar AND a cheeter on it. you'll need it. Paint was not the issue on mine, the gasket was dry and a stinking Gorrilla put it on. I used a strap wrench like Murphy suggested and it stretches alot under so much force but it does work. Do NOT try to drive a screwdriver through it my guess is it would just rip apart because it is so tight. I crushed the canister with the strap wrench!!! I have serviced heavy equipment for over 6 years and never had a filter that tight. CJ

 

[Coyote machine]

I have a slightly different approach to the routine maintenance plan. I do all the filters, including the fuel filter at 50 but do NOT change the hydraulic oil for the HST. The Kioti HST filter is around $70 or so and it filters down to a few microns. I have used synthetic oil for the engine and a good quality UTF for the front axle. I've used both Amsoil diesel oil for the engine on my first tractor- a DK-35sehst, and have since switched to Mobil synthetic diesel spec oil due to it's availability.
Filter removal can be made easier by using sandpaper under the strap wrench to give the wrench extra grip when trying to break the dried on seal of the original filters against the engine flange.
The specs shown in some of the manuals are too high for the loader bolts. Just snug them with a suitable wrench and then go another 1/4 turn, so they're all consistent. Check them periodically, and blue locktite the threads if you encounter any regular movement.
As mentioned DO NOT overtighten the two oil pan drain bolts or you will be kickin' something soon.
Check the front axle fluid level on level ground via the glass sight glass on the left side of the axle housing. There is a red ring in which the white ball should sit in the center of when properly filled on level ground. Over filling can cause seal failure, so take the time to get it right and check it after a few hours of operation to make sure its set right.
Grease all fittings, (zerks) regularly, and fix any which won't take grease. The center of the front axle has a fitting you could grease all day and never see any grease come out. Just give it three pumps and leave it be. Overgreasing here will leave too much grease mixed in with the axle fluid and could cause seal failure as mentioned above.
Check the radiator screen(s) to make sure they are not clogged with grass, leaves, etc.
Change out the air filter if you are in very dusty conditions - nothing is worse than a dirty air filter on a diesel engine for shortening it's life.
Check tire pressure too on all wheels.