50 hr service (fuel filter)

[smokeys427]

Just completed my 50 hour service on my DS3510 and yes the hydro filter was a **** like all have mentioned!
I have the new fuel filter but I haven't changed it yet though. I wanted to ask y'all when I replace the fuel filter with a new one and be sure to fill the fuel glass/filter housing and filter with fuel will that be enough so I don't have to bleed the system out. I have read the manual about how to bleed the system if I run out of fuel (which I never have) and the way the write it really makes it very confusing to understand. So will I be Ok with just filling the housing and filter without worrying about getting air in and have to bleed air out?
Thanks again for any advise.
Regards,
Smokeys427

 

[George2615]

I don't have Kioti but I would not think you need to replace the fuel filter yet. I bought one for mine when I did the 50 hr. service just to have on hand. I figure I may change it at the 200 hr. service. If you change yours you should be OK just filling the glass, filter, and housing. I have changed many tractor fuel filters and only once had to bleed the system. Hopefully another Kioti owner will correct me if I'm wrong about your tractor.

 

[VictorW]

Filling the bowl will help a great deal with the air but still not a big problem with the little air remaining. At the top of the filter mounting is a valve. It should be marked off, run, air. After changing the filter, turn the valve lever to air and start the tractor normally. Let it run a few minutes and turn the lever to run. You'll be good to go until the next filter change. Changed mine about four times now on a CK30hst. I didn't fill the bowl the first time but it bled out all the air when the valve was on the air position. I had changed mine when at 50 hours by the manual but after looking at it, it didn't really need it. You probably could wait as mentioned.

 

[Coyote machine]

I'd change it. You can't see what's embedded in the filter unless the particles are large, you have X-ray (Charles) vision, or there is copious amounts of water present.
AND we're coming into winter; well you may be coming into tornadoes, but changing it may get out initial contaminants from the tank etc. since leaving the factory.

 

[mguitas]

Just completed my 50 hour service on my DS3510 and yes the hydro filter was a **** like all have mentioned!
I have the new fuel filter but I haven't changed it yet though. I wanted to ask y'all when I replace the fuel filter with a new one and be sure to fill the fuel glass/filter housing and filter with fuel will that be enough so I don't have to bleed the system out. I have read the manual about how to bleed the system if I run out of fuel (which I never have) and the way the write it really makes it very confusing to understand. So will I be Ok with just filling the housing and filter without worrying about getting air in and have to bleed air out?
Thanks again for any advise.
Regards,
Smokeys427

I change my fuel fliter twice now, an I did not have to bleed the system. You can fill up the bowl completely, that works good.

 

[DK35vince]

You shouldn't need a fuel filter change yet, unless you have really crappy fuel.

 

[Amvcane]

My CK35 owners manual shows to clean the fuel filter element every 100hrs and to replace every 400. I agree with CM about manufacturing debris ending up in the wrong place. My dealer has shown me paint chips, metal machining curls and wire wheel bristles in a hydro fluid change, who knows what's in the fuel tank.
Also, cleaning a fuel filter in kerosene by soaking, agitating and rinsing may still let particles migrate to the injector side of the element. I know that I am overthinking this. So for about $10 for a new element, I just clean the fuel bulb and change the element during the 100hr engine oil and filter service.

 

[Coyote machine]

For the cost of maybe 2 Starbucks coffees one can replace the fuel filter as part of routine maintenance. Cleaning it is a ludicrous concept, IMO, because of what Amvcane stated about debris getting past the filter to the IP. Price out a new IP and see which makes more sense. IPs are assembled in clean rooms to keep microscopic particles out of their internal channels, that's how sensitive to foreign particles they are.

The same logic applies to air filters, the most important preventive part of any engine maintenance. People say they can clean them; the industry says no - cleaning them is a huge NO. Even the housings they reside in should be wiped clean not blown out with compressed air to keep microscopic particles from lodging in the filtration system, air intake, etc. I've read the articles in the industry magazines.

 

[k0ua]

Just completed my 50 hour service on my DS3510 and yes the hydro filter was a **** like all have mentioned!
I have the new fuel filter but I haven't changed it yet though. I wanted to ask y'all when I replace the fuel filter with a new one and be sure to fill the fuel glass/filter housing and filter with fuel will that be enough so I don't have to bleed the system out. I have read the manual about how to bleed the system if I run out of fuel (which I never have) and the way the write it really makes it very confusing to understand. So will I be Ok with just filling the housing and filter without worrying about getting air in and have to bleed air out?
Thanks again for any advise.
Regards,
Smokeys427

The answer is a definite maybe. I have done exactly what you have said and I skated by without bleeding. It did stumble some for a bit, but it worked what little air was in there out and ran fine after that. You have absolutely nothing to lose by trying it. Shut the fuel off, change the filter, be mindful of the o-rings and spring, fill with clean fuel, put carefully back together, and fire it up.

 

[smokeys427]

Thanks to all for all the helpful info! I'll go ahead and change the filter and fill the bowl with fuel then and use the procedure using the valve that the other poster talked about so as not to get any air in the system. It's just I've heard so many horror stories about air getting in the system of a diesel engine.

 

[ksbrdmkr]

Have the engine warm before changing the filter so the start will be easier, When I changed my DK45 it took three or four stumbling starts before it would run.

 

[Retired guy]

Make sure you loosen the filler cap to vent the fuel tank after replacing the filter bowl then turn the valve to air.

 

[Hill Billy Bob]

If there isn't water, or other debri visible in the bowl, the filter hasn't change color dramatically, and your tractor's power is normal, I'd leave it alone for a while. A fuel filter with 100 or more hours on it, is a much more efficient filter than a new one.

As far as the manual suggesting a cleaning of the filter every 100 hours.....that's nuts. If I'm going to take it apart, it's going to be changed.

Like someone else said.....unless you've had some crappy fuel, your filter will go far longer than 50 hours. Changed my CK's the first time at 275 hours, and didn't really need to then. Haven't done it since....now at 561 hours. I might add that I do use Power Service additive, and faithfully treat every gallon of fuel, winter and summer.

 

[DK35vince]

Like someone else said.....unless you've had some crappy fuel, your filter will go far longer than 50 hours. Changed my CK's the first time at 275 hours, and didn't really need to then. Haven't done it since....now at 561 hours. I might add that I do use Power Service additive, and faithfully treat every gallon of fuel, winter and summer.

I think the last time I changed my fuel filter was when I had to change my fuel bowl at around 1000 hours.
(forgot to write it down, I general keep track of my oil or filter changes and services done)
I'm at 1986 hours now.
Probably wouldn't hurt to throw a new filter in my next service.