5035 running out of fuel
- Thread starter NewGuyInNewEngland
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DaBear3428
Platinum Member
just my 2cents worth but before I spent all the time and effort on replacing fuel lines etc. I would:
1. drain all the fuel out including the lines and filter bowl.
2. pour some clean fuel thru to wash it out.
3. replace all of the fuel filters, clean any screens.
4. refill with clean fuel + additive and prime.
I have spent more than my fair share of time tracking down gremlins that turn out to be just bad fuel, but it is usually the last thing that you look for. anything that sits for long periods like boats, tractors and motorcycles tend to develop fuel problems.
may not be it but if it solves the problem it is a lot less expensive/ time consuming.
Good luck and let us know how it goes.
1. drain all the fuel out including the lines and filter bowl.
2. pour some clean fuel thru to wash it out.
3. replace all of the fuel filters, clean any screens.
4. refill with clean fuel + additive and prime.
I have spent more than my fair share of time tracking down gremlins that turn out to be just bad fuel, but it is usually the last thing that you look for. anything that sits for long periods like boats, tractors and motorcycles tend to develop fuel problems.
may not be it but if it solves the problem it is a lot less expensive/ time consuming.
Good luck and let us know how it goes.
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NewGuyInNewEngland
Bronze Member
Thank you sir.
ng
OP
NewGuyInNewEngland
Bronze Member
Good advice sir. You are right for sure. And I'll have a nice clean fuel tank when I'm done, even if it doesn't fix it.
I believe I found where the tank drain plug is during a web search, so if it's there, it should be relatively. easy to do the job.
I will keep you updated.
Thanks again.
ng
svendawg
Member
My 4550 had an issue like yours. Took it to dealer under warranty. Dealer found that the screen at the tank shutoff valve was pluged up with debris. I believe they just removed the shutoff valve to get to the screen
That's what I have been talking about!
Do you mean inlet? (Where you pour the fuel into the tank)
svendawg
Member
No, at the bottom of my tank there is a fuel shutoff valve that feeds the fuel to the engine. It's so you can shut off fuel from the tank if necessary. I was told that there is a screen on that valve that got plugged with debris in the tank.
Check your tank for a valve that goes from the bottom of the tank to your fuel line to the engine.
If there is a valve you may need to drain the tank to remove the valve unless you can unscrew the valve and quickly plug the tank.
Proberly easier to drain the tank
Check your tank for a valve that goes from the bottom of the tank to your fuel line to the engine.
If there is a valve you may need to drain the tank to remove the valve unless you can unscrew the valve and quickly plug the tank.
Proberly easier to drain the tank
OP
NewGuyInNewEngland
Bronze Member
Thank you for the input Svendawg. As Fx suggested, it will be a cheaper, simpler check to do before going through the hassle of swapping/repairing the fuel lines, although that seems to be inevitable.
I did not see any sort of tank shutoff valve. I believe I will have to remove the protective metal plate that is blocking any sort of view of the bottom of the tank.
this is the best I can come up with for a parts breakdown of the 5035's fuel tank, although this view is for a 4035, which I believe are somewhat the same except for the extra cylinder for the 5035. Can I assume item 29 is a drain valve?
This image, IMO, is not very helpfull as far as fuel lines used or location of the tank shutoff valve location but it's the best I can find.
Note item 31. That is the screen filter for adding fuel to the tank.
It is in place and has no tears or damage.
Appreciate the input.
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NewGuyInNewEngland
Bronze Member
Yes, fx. Svendawg concurs.
Yes. inlet. typo on my part.
Number 31 in the diagram.
I will begin the drain and clean upon arrival of the borescope.
Need to find where that tank shutoff valve is though.
Appreciate your input.
Will keep providing updates as I progress.
ng
OP
NewGuyInNewEngland
Bronze Member
Good input Svendawg. I believe I will have to remove the protective sheet metal that is covering the bottom of the tank before I will see that fuel shutoff valve. I'll remove the plate and report back.
The image I posted shows what may be the drain plug as item 21. I did not see it but may not have gone far enough along the tank to see that low-hanging section.
Or it may be covered by more protective sheet metal.
Borescope should be here tomorrow. I'll begin the drain and clean task soon after and will keep this post updated.
Thanks All for the recommendations.
Appreciated.
ng
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NewGuyInNewEngland
Bronze Member
This is a late second update. Not sure what happened but my first update is not here. I did not delete it. Somehow it never posted.
Rather than drain and inspect the tank I decided to move forward with the fuel line replacements due to known problems with bad crimps and porous lines as they are well-documented to cause this kind of problem.
It was a son of a gun to get my hands in there even after removing the left rear wheel, but I was able to replace all 4 fuel lines (including the leaky return line I did in December).
Ran her hard for about 4 hours clearing some boulders and debris back in late April. The engine is now running strong without a hint of dying. I feel confident that the issue has been resolved and I won't have to worry about the engine quitting in the middle of plowing after a snowstorm this winter. She has been rock solid and dependable since purchased in 2011.
A belated thank you to all of you who offered helpful suggestions.
A special thank you to Dave of Dave's tractor in Red Bluff, CA for his detailed descriptions of how to get to the fuel lines for removal and replacement. Thanks, Dave!
Ng
Rather than drain and inspect the tank I decided to move forward with the fuel line replacements due to known problems with bad crimps and porous lines as they are well-documented to cause this kind of problem.
It was a son of a gun to get my hands in there even after removing the left rear wheel, but I was able to replace all 4 fuel lines (including the leaky return line I did in December).
Ran her hard for about 4 hours clearing some boulders and debris back in late April. The engine is now running strong without a hint of dying. I feel confident that the issue has been resolved and I won't have to worry about the engine quitting in the middle of plowing after a snowstorm this winter. She has been rock solid and dependable since purchased in 2011.
A belated thank you to all of you who offered helpful suggestions.
A special thank you to Dave of Dave's tractor in Red Bluff, CA for his detailed descriptions of how to get to the fuel lines for removal and replacement. Thanks, Dave!
Ng
Citydude
Super Member
Thanks for posting the outcome. Someone in the future will benefit from this thread.
Cute dog.
Cute dog.
OP
NewGuyInNewEngland
Bronze Member
Thanks, CityDude. That was my intention.Thanks for posting the outcome. Someone in the future will benefit from this thread.
Cute dog.
I got a lot of well-intentioned advice but my experience told me this is too new of a tractor to have a blockage in the tank as I religiously added fuel with the screen at the fill spout in place.
I did add an algaecide as it was something I hadn't done as I was using the tractor more frequently in earlier years, but work had me traveling and the 5035 was getting it's main workout during winter snow removal. It was a great idea I hadn't thought of and will probably help to avoid future issues, but for this scenario, with fairly fresh fuel and a low-hours tractor, albeit 11 years old, the air in the fuel line from bad crimps and/or
It was quite an ordeal..so little out there on Mahindras. And I had a crappy dealer who, if he cared about me as a customer, would have advised me that there was a recall on that model tractor due to the faulty lines. It would have been taken care of in 2013 when the recalls came out. Of course, that would have committed him to do the repairs under warranty..... He really never gave me a good answer when asked why he didn't reach out to me. Saved him some money I guess for transport as the parts were very cheap.
Anyway, The folks on TBN, especially Dave at Dave's tractor, were a godsend. I am a decent DIY'er with a good deal of experience in auto repair DIY, but not so much with my first Compact 50hp diesel tractor. I was running out of ideas and might have had to pay for transport to the dealer and back by an independent tow company as he stopped doing that service for his customers if the TBN community didn't help me out.
Btw: if you look at the tractor pic and zoom in at the front of the wheel well, see that little space between the tank and the wheel well sheet metal? That's where the hoses are that needed to be replaced. Lots of cussin' before the job was done as well as some scratched up hands and bruised knuckles, but it was worth it.
One TBN member did the job without removing the wheel. I gotta give him credit... I can only guess he has small hands, which allowed him to do the job with the wheel on.
The doggie is our 2-year-old Jack Russell, Kali. She's a fierce little guard dog and a great companion, especially since I retired on April 1. At a few grams over 10lbs, she's the perfect size and easy to care for. She is also very curious about anything she hasn't seen before (big red sitting in the attached garage and the big wheel against the wall), which is why she wandered into the picture.
Thanks again for your input.
Ng
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